choosing a saw to modify

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bullseye13

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What kind of saw does everybody recommend for learning to modify saws on? Is there a particular type or brand that is easier to learn with, without breaking the bank? I have in mind an older mcculloch 250, with the cast iron sleeved cylinder. Are there any positives or negitives to a saw such as this, or would there be a good alternitive? thanks
 
My recommendation is the husky 359 or Jonny 2159. They are well built saws to start with and big gains can be made. Transfers have removable covers, so no special porting tools required. Parts are reasonable, so if you do screw anything up it will be easy to get parts. There is a good bit of porting info on the net specific to these saws. Many people have ported them so you may be able to pick up some pointer easy, where if you choose a less popular/older saw it will be harder to find info.

When your done you can have a pro quality saw that can cut with a stock 066 in small wood, but in a lot smaller package.
 
The main thing to look for in a easily mod-able saw are closed transfer ports and a flat cylinder base (none of those weird poulan style jobs). Stay with pro model Stihls/ Huskies/ etc.

Your 250 can be modded but its tough since the block and cylinder are one piece. The best way to do it is a stroker crank and raise the exhaust port and lose the governor but very expensive and time consuming. Of course, you could always squeeze a cart motor into the chassis. Either way on the mac you will be out a few $$$$$$$.
 
Romeo, don't you meen "open transfers"? Closed transfers in general are harder to do as 90 degree porting tool is almost required to get in at the transfers. With open transfers just a regular Dremel will do. Granted though Closed transfers make stronger woods saws.

Stihl flat based saws (026, 036,044,046,066...) are easier to bump compression up on than the huskies that have a lip extending down into the base to support the piston.

On the huskies with a lip on the base for more compression than just removing the base gasket your realy into some machiene shop work on a mill or lathe.
 
Romeo, don't you meen "open transfers"? Closed transfers in general are harder to do as 90 degree porting tool is almost required to get in at the transfers. With open transfers just a regular Dremel will do. Granted though Closed transfers make stronger woods saws.

Stihl flat based saws (026, 036,044,046,066...) are easier to bump compression up on than the huskies that have a lip extending down into the base to support the piston.

On the huskies with a lip on the base for more compression than just removing the base gasket your realy into some machiene shop work on a mill or lathe.

I meant closed but I was thinking better to mod than easier to mod. Open transfers are much easier to mod though.
 
Romeo, don't you meen "open transfers"? Closed transfers in general are harder to do as 90 degree porting tool is almost required to get in at the transfers. With open transfers just a regular Dremel will do. Granted though Closed transfers make stronger woods saws.

Stihl flat based saws (026, 036,044,046,066...) are easier to bump compression up on than the huskies that have a lip extending down into the base to support the piston.

On the huskies with a lip on the base for more compression than just removing the base gasket your realy into some machiene shop work on a mill or lathe.



Brian I assume you have a right angle pencil grinder? which one do you have?

I think a good saw to mod is the 350 husky. tons of options, removeable sideplates, you can put a 346 top on it if so desired. the crankcase is able to be removed and ground down to improve the squish band. it is a homeowner saw but you can use that to you advantage. there are more of them around, lots of them have found out that straight gas doesn't work very good in saws and then they ebay them for about 100 bucks, a new piston for 30 and you are off to a good start. If you botch it, ebay it and you are not out much


Buck
 

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