Cleaning saws.

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doc874

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Any one have any tricks to cleaning saws of the oil/sawdust and treesap? I just purchased a small parts washer for next to nothing after doing it by hand with rags screw drives etc... and carb cleaner. Just wondering also if any here has used the Kings small parts washer, i haven't tried it yet but hope to later today.
 
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Depends on what you're trying to do...

If I am just cleaning up one of my work saws I scrape the thicker build up off then use compressed air. It does make a bit of a mess in the shop but it doesn't take much more than that to keep them in good shape. For a lot of pitch from pine, etc. I find one of the waterless hand cleaners like Goop work pretty well. I suppose today we have the magic purple stuff that would work as well.

I used to wash them off with a hose which did work pretty well, but eventually I got enough water in the fuel tank they would freeze up in very cold weather and not start until I left them in the truck with the heater on full blast for 30 minutes or so.

For my rebuilds/clean-up of the old collectibles I start out the same way, tear them down as far as needed to get at all the junk, scrape the thick layers, use the part washer (with mineral spirits), and follow with the purple cleaner as needed.

Recently I acquired a dishwasher that I can use as well on the tear downs; I suppose you could put a whole powerhead in there but what is the purpose
in that?

Mark
 
It seems like everyone these days is using the wife's dishwasher. Just don't get caught!! What they don't know won't hurt them.
 
Actually, I have a portable unit in my garage/shop that will be dedicated to these types of tasks.

Mark

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Now I need to lengthen the hoses so it will reach the faucet in the bathroom, probably need to change the faucet as well so it can clip on.
 
I use brake parts cleaner, an old toothbrush, a shop rag, a screwdriver for scraping, and a large flat file for what does not come off the bar.

I also have a "clean" old toothbrush for cleaning the air filter.
 
Well I am glad you ask. I have wondered the same thing. Some of the saws on here look like they never see wood and I wonder how they stay so clean and no paint chips or discoloring. I use compressed air first to knock off the big stuff and to clean all the nooks and cranies. I use window cleaner on the bar and any place that has tar, burned oil or just really baked on stuff. It works really well just melts the stuff off. Its better than the brake cleaner or wd40 at removing the baked on stuff. Then use brake cleaner for the final wash off. It gets it clean but not brand new like some of the saws here. I'd like to know there tricks :greenchainsaw:
 
Actually, I have a portable unit in my garage/shop that will be dedicated to these types of tasks.

Mark

attachment.php


Now I need to lengthen the hoses so it will reach the faucet in the bathroom, probably need to change the faucet as well so it can clip on.

nice idea... does it freeze in your shop? if so you will want to blow the lines out real good and the solenoid valve.. I had min in the kitchen freeze up and break .. while it was out of the kitchen during the remodel ... didn't find it till it was back in...
 
A dishwasher as a parts washer.

I never would have thought of that, but hey whatever works. Do you have to use more/special detergents?

FYI- If you have access to a Schaffer lubricants dealer try and get a hold of some "Citrol". Its a citrus based degreaser that works amazingly well for cleaning up the cases. It melts sap great, I use it for cleaning our shearing knives and for cleaning up chainsaws. When you harvest Christmas trees on warm fall days they just rain sap and after about 10,000 trees the saws get pretty covered.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/266_citrol.html
 
Here is my Routine for a really dirty saw, or just cleaning up a saw to as clean as it can possibly be. Ive done A few Husky's, lots of Stihls, Lots of Echo's, and so far every customer was shocked and elated as to how well it turned out.

Remove bar and chain. Sharpen chain, clean kerf with a scraper, then blow out, clean sprocket tip, blow out, oil.

Remove clutch. Sand shoes, sand inside of drum. Clean and lube bearing.

Remove top cover, remove air filter, remove muffler. Remove carb.

Drain oil tank, drain fuel tank. Remove recoil.

Soak entire saw in solvent, I use BIG RED with a heavy concentration mix. I let it sit 5 minutes, then power wash the whole saw, bottom, around the head, where the carb would be, where them uff. would be, around the flywheel and coil.

Then I bring it inside, soak it in brake cleaner, and hit the whole thing with compressed air until totally dry, then I let it sit in the sun an hour or so.

In the meantime, I clean up the recoil, powerwashing it, as well as the clutch cover and the top cover.

Bring the saw in, drip some oil down the intake power, and into the exhaust port, I usually hit it with a fog of WD-40. Then I cleanup the carb, usually rebuild it while Im there. Bolt it on, put the muffler on, recoil on, clutch on, bar and chain on, new plug, top off the fuel tank with fresh mix, also checking to be sure no water made its way into the fuel tank. Same with the oil tank.

So far, all sqaws have fired within 5 pulls, and ran as good as new.

I can do a really really nasty saw in about an hour and a half, from setting it on the bench, to making out the ticket for repair. Usually charge anywhere from 45-55 dollars, depending on how big the saw is, and how nasty it is. My commercial customers love the service, it keeps the saws happy, and it keeps the users happy...that makes me happy.:cheers:
 
I just cleaned my saw and remembered a couple more things I use...

A "pipe cleaner" (smoking pipe type) to clean the oil holes in the bar.

Then I have a depth gauge tool which has a pointed end like shown in the following picture. I run that pointed part down the chain grooves in the bar to clean out the gunk.

http://www.sawchain.com/images/product-images/depth.jpg
 
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