Cool pic from above ...

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create an account, uoload photo, copy image code, paste it in your reply box.
that`s all
 
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Here is a pic from a Red Oak I did last year I posted it before but thought guys might like it.:chainsawguy:
 
Hey, just a browsing through here. I normally stick the firewood part of the forum. I noticed something and I just could not keep my mouth shut. I would like your guys' input on this. There is a couple pics there of your cuts that sow your hinge cut lower than the face cut. If your hinge cut is below the face cut isn't that bad?

I've never seen or heard from anyone having a hinge cut below the face cut. Hinge cut goes 2" above the face cut. Did not know if it was something important but it sure as heck would put me at ease having it brought to attention and addressed. Better to be safer than sorry...

Great job btw on taking this challenge on yourself!
 
you are a :censored: idiot.

this is a CLIMBING forum jackass.:bang:

LOL. I got it.

MonsterSpruce.jpg


Also treeslayer, and others who had input on posting pics. You have to save the pic, then select it from list, and click on create image code, THEN select it from a list, copy paste
 
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The back-cut appears lower than my notch only when the chunks are on the ground upside down , lol . Earlier in this thread there is a diagram of how I intended to make my cuts . My notch is not horizontal to the ground , that might throw you off . And just as my diagram shows , I wasn't leaving quite enuf hinge material (as mentioned by another member)
I since have learned to hold my back-cut back a bit more utilizing the effect of the hinge much more . The recent pics were to show the change ... I had nice predictable "wedge overs" that way .
I lowered the whole 70' tree in 5' pieces , except the bottom , once I could clear the fence I dropped the last 10 feet in one piece .
Then I cut the stump as close to the ground as I could without picking around the edge . The 36" bar of my 'ol Husqvarna barely stuck out the other side of the flare-based root wad .
 
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The back-cut appears lower than my notch only when the chunks are on the ground upside down , lol . Earlier in this thread there is a diagram of how I intended to make my cuts . My notch is not horizontal to the ground , that might throw you off . And just as my diagram shows , I wasn't leaving quite enuf hinge material (as mentioned by another member)
I since have learned to hold my back-cut back a bit more utilizing the effect of the hinge much more . The recent pics were to show the change ... I had nice predictable "wedge overs" that way .
I lowered the whole 70' tree in 5' pieces , except the bottom , once I could clear the fence I dropped the last 10 feet in one piece .
Then I cut the stump as close to the ground as I could without picking around the edge . The 36" bar of my 'ol Husqvarna barely stuck out the other side of the flare-based root wad .

dude you deserve extra rep just for that diagram, I think that is the first time in here I seen someone use Paint and you could clearly see what was intended.
 
cool pic from below ...

The roof below my feet is my carport ... approx. 12' tall .
I ran a steel tape measure down from where my hand is hooked on , 55' .
after I dropped that top we measured that and it was 18' .
So the tree stood 73' ground to tip .
Yesterday I took the top , a 5' chunk , then an 8' chunk .
I hope to finish it up later today .
topclimber2.jpg

closerclimber.jpg
 
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The roof below my feet is my carport ... approx. 12' tall .
I ran a steel tape measure down from where my hand is hooked on , 55' .
after I dropped that top we measured that and it was 18' .
So the tree stood 73' ground to tip .
Yesterday I took the top , a 5' chunk , then an 8' chunk .
I hope to finish it up later today .
topclimber2.jpg

closerclimber.jpg

Great work DIY:blob2:
 
good grief!

I usually make my notch 1/3 no more.. sometimes less, then back cut leaving enough hinge wood to control the fall. I kind of go by feel on how much but I would say 15% is probably pretty close. I learned the hard way about cutting too far through my hinge. Had a tree spin on the stump (didnt hit anything or anyone but scared the crap out of me) because I was in too much of a hurry to go get my wedges or put a rope in it. Just constructive criticism, meant with only good intent.

You spend way too much time on the internet.

The wood spun because you were using them slow ass Stihls.With a Husky,you would have cut through so fast the wood wouldn't have time to spin.
 
true.

The bug bit and I think you've gone viral!
Probably not anywhere near the safest way to cut, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't do it. Several times actually, and the last time the saw nicked my chaps.
So tell me, what are you gonna do after all your trees are down?
Steve W.

That's why I got a nice Petzl headlamp.
 
Nice work

Your story is a lot like mine. I had a big willow that would have cost around $3000 to take down. Instead, I did like you, spent a few weeks studying and practicing. What a rush!!!! There is more if you look at my past potings. It's good to see I'm not the only one.
 

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