Critique my sharpening skills
- Thread starter memory
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
SawTroll
Information Collector
I agree with most of that, and the main point with the roller guides also is to hold the file at the correct height. However, I will say that looking closely at what you are doing will beat any guide, provided you know what to look for!
Regarding the length of the cutters, I am not fanatic at all.
A few short cutters doesn't matter much, unless there are a lot of them on the same side of the chain. Of course this will render the Stihl and Oregon style raker guides, that rest on top of two cutters, useless - but I don't like those guides anyway, as they are not progressive....
Good point Nikko - I was thinking of different length cutters at random points on the chain leading to bouncing or vibration.
If, due to one's filing technique, all of the left side cutters (for example) were shorter than the right side cutters, the chain could pull to one side.
I think that the statisticians would describe this as the difference between random variation (unpredictable and evenly distributed) and systematic variation (attributable to a specific cause and predictable)!
Philbert
If you're serious about learning to square file buy 2 loops of chain in a size you need. Buy atleast a dozen files. :msp_wink: Probably 2 dozen will be more like it. When you sharpen those chains to nothing or get them too far out of whack just round file them and start over with more. It will take probably take wearing out 10 chains or more to get decent to proficient at it. If you want to be lazy about it get a grinder and don't look back.
Yeah, I just may do that. Sounds like a plan.
quotejso2
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks for the link however I have.325 pitch and is not narrow kerf do you think it will work
mortenh
ArboristSite Operative
It won't be good, as it is made for 3/8" pitch chains. You may instead use this combination roller guide and depth gauge from Husqvarna: Bailey's - Husqvarna Combination Swedish Roller Guide for .325 Pitch Chainsaw Chain
That page also contains a Husqvarna video about chain sharpening, which can also be viewed on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXzoSEiu4R0
Last edited:
zogger
Tree Freak
I just now finished trying out a new tool to me, one of these husky combo cutter and depth tools, not the roller guide, the other gadget they have, does both the cutter and depth gauge at the same time.
Sharp Force
I like it! I was doing 116 drive links and it knocked it out pretty fast, and it is easy to use!
Sharp Force
I like it! I was doing 116 drive links and it knocked it out pretty fast, and it is easy to use!
Hedgerow
HACK
Yes... Those work very well...
Looks like the new version of the Pferd file guide, except in Husky orange, instead of their traditional blue.
Philbert
eriklane
ArboristSite Operative
Quick follow up note-do think about using a full chisel for green, clean or softer woods, and a semi chisel for harder, or less clean wood. And realize that a skip tooth also helps for a long bar in a saw that may be can't pull a full long chain. It's not 1 chain for cutting anything...you do have to put some thought into it. Don't ask how I know.
For my $, a semi chisel is nice because it lasts long.
And I did sell my very nice grinder. I use only round files now. Can do it anywhere, and, it's about the same speed as a grinder, and, I am right there with glasses on staring at each tooth. With a grinder, I think it's way easier to assume it's done. I simply file until each is really sharp...I just like the control of a file. And in the woods, ya need it sometimes. If you're good with a file, you're prepared then.
Or just carry multiple chains if you must keep the grinder. Also be very observant that some chains need a flat cut, and some full chisel (Oregon 72 I think) require a 10degree tilt. Most don't...without the grinder table tilted, it's going to affect the cutting performance. Do not ask how I know.
For my $, a semi chisel is nice because it lasts long.
And I did sell my very nice grinder. I use only round files now. Can do it anywhere, and, it's about the same speed as a grinder, and, I am right there with glasses on staring at each tooth. With a grinder, I think it's way easier to assume it's done. I simply file until each is really sharp...I just like the control of a file. And in the woods, ya need it sometimes. If you're good with a file, you're prepared then.
Or just carry multiple chains if you must keep the grinder. Also be very observant that some chains need a flat cut, and some full chisel (Oregon 72 I think) require a 10degree tilt. Most don't...without the grinder table tilted, it's going to affect the cutting performance. Do not ask how I know.
saxman
Addicted to ArboristSite
After reading all of this thread I would suggest the OP try using a Granberg file guide. That would help him keep his angles straight and he can go slow and easy and not butcher a chain with the HF grinder. I have a Oregon 511 grinder but still break out the Granberg from time to time. Just an idea
Steve
Steve
Bingo
ArboristSite Operative
Sharpening class
Lots of experience and good advice here!...should help everyone...But one thing I didn't see while reading the whole thread: Seems the OP never flipped his bar after sharpening...hence maybe the wallow in one spot...I remove my bar when I get home and check it for burrs or a sharp edge. That can be cleaned w/a file. Clean out the bar groove/oil holes then flip the bar over. Everytime...It wears evenly. Then sharpen the chain either on or off the bar.
Lots of experience and good advice here!...should help everyone...But one thing I didn't see while reading the whole thread: Seems the OP never flipped his bar after sharpening...hence maybe the wallow in one spot...I remove my bar when I get home and check it for burrs or a sharp edge. That can be cleaned w/a file. Clean out the bar groove/oil holes then flip the bar over. Everytime...It wears evenly. Then sharpen the chain either on or off the bar.
altair
ArboristSite Operative
Agree totally with all the good advice given, and thanks guys, l learned a few things too!!
And OP, good to see you don't mind the "honest" advice given, sharpening in my opinion is a bit of an art, and once you have learned it you will suddenly find the neighbors and friends bringing their tortured and mistreated chains over for a sharpen (or is that just my bad luck)?? Also if you are an average home user then a semi chisel chain is more forgiving...maybe does not cut as fast, but the average bloke cutting his firewood wouldn't notice a difference.
You mentioned filing one side "different" to the other, very easily done with hand filing as you naturally file better one way that the other. Just keep practicing and it will fall into place.
I too think you bar is finished, I certainly would replace mine if it looked like that..and always use good quality bar oil, and clean the bar grooves and oil holes often...I always oil the bar and tip when I've finished cleaning..a trick my dad taught me when I was a teen, still do it today and my bars/chains last me really well..normally Carlton too.
I have a friend here who insists on using old engine oil in his big Stihls to lubricate the bar...sends shivers up my spine at the thought of it, considering over here its $300 roughly for a new bar and chain for his 066..but no amount of trying to convince him its bad for everything concerned, will work.
I've always hand filed my chains, but as I'm getting older and lazier I'm considering an electric sharpener myself..here they go for about $140 for a chinese one...which in my mind is a lot of files!!
Good luck, I've enjoyed reading this tread, amazing what you can learn!
And OP, good to see you don't mind the "honest" advice given, sharpening in my opinion is a bit of an art, and once you have learned it you will suddenly find the neighbors and friends bringing their tortured and mistreated chains over for a sharpen (or is that just my bad luck)?? Also if you are an average home user then a semi chisel chain is more forgiving...maybe does not cut as fast, but the average bloke cutting his firewood wouldn't notice a difference.
You mentioned filing one side "different" to the other, very easily done with hand filing as you naturally file better one way that the other. Just keep practicing and it will fall into place.
I too think you bar is finished, I certainly would replace mine if it looked like that..and always use good quality bar oil, and clean the bar grooves and oil holes often...I always oil the bar and tip when I've finished cleaning..a trick my dad taught me when I was a teen, still do it today and my bars/chains last me really well..normally Carlton too.
I have a friend here who insists on using old engine oil in his big Stihls to lubricate the bar...sends shivers up my spine at the thought of it, considering over here its $300 roughly for a new bar and chain for his 066..but no amount of trying to convince him its bad for everything concerned, will work.
I've always hand filed my chains, but as I'm getting older and lazier I'm considering an electric sharpener myself..here they go for about $140 for a chinese one...which in my mind is a lot of files!!
Good luck, I've enjoyed reading this tread, amazing what you can learn!
shawnw
ArboristSite Member
Figured I'd take a crack at hand sharpening before I ponied up for a timberline. How did I do?
