Both. It's impossible for those chains to cut good. You need to raise your standards, lol. A lot
Critique my sharpening skills
- Thread starter memory
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Both. It's impossible for those chains to cut good. You need to raise your standards, lol. A lot
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I know these chains look bad but they are still cutting. Now I know what a new chains cuts like and these do not cut like a new chain but they still cut pretty decent, they still throw some pretty good chips. Maybe I need to take a video if I could figure out how to post a video, I rarely take videos.
I'm not just trying to be harsh, but your chains aren't just bad, they're very bad. You need to grind WAY back to get rid of the rounded top edge. The profile and angles of the grind are totally wrong. You have virtually no hook at all. You're trying to cut with almost a square corner. I would recommend that you go with semi-chisel chain. It will be more forgiving than the chisel chain that you have.
It would be so much easier if you were here. It's kind of hard to point out exactly what's wrong and what you want it to look like.
It would be so much easier if you were here. It's kind of hard to point out exactly what's wrong and what you want it to look like.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
What angles do you have your grinder set too? Post a pic of your grinding wheel. We're giving harsh but honest feedback, but we're also here to help you fix it.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I believe it is either 30 or 35, can't remember right now. I will try to get a pic of the grinder wheel.
Don't worry about the harsh feedback, I can take it. I come here because I need help.
Don't worry about the harsh feedback, I can take it. I come here because I need help.
What angle is the motor at? It should be at 60°. The edge of the grinding wheel should be one smooth radius, a 1/2 circle.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Both. It's impossible for those chains to cut good. You need to raise your standards, lol. A lot
Yes, and dull chain like that can cause serious heat issues as well!
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
when you get the cutters rite you'll think you got a bigger saw. no corner , no cut.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I am not sure what angle the motor is set to. It is the kind that can not be adjusted. It is one of those cheap Harbor Freight models. I will get a pic posted a little later.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Sorry for the bad quality photo but here's a chain I sharped then used a week cutting around ten trees!
View attachment 249183
It's still sharp but I will need to touch drags next sharpening!
View attachment 249183
It's still sharp but I will need to touch drags next sharpening!
Fish
Tree Freak
Don't ever fall for that line.... The sound of his shop door clicking would be that last you would ever hear..........
You would be in a pit with a bunch of lotion.......
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
RS33 by zweitakt250, on Flickr
This is the underside of a sharp tooth. Look in my signature for an image of a sharp toothe from the outside. Zero light should reflect from the edge. The edge should sharp enough that you consider it dangerous, as you would any razor edge.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
Here are some pics of the grinder wheel. I think I need to reverse it and see if it does any better.
When I start working on one of these chains, would I just be able to work on one tooth at a time so I am sure I can get it back to normal? If I hand filed, how many strokes do you think it would take?
When I start working on one of these chains, would I just be able to work on one tooth at a time so I am sure I can get it back to normal? If I hand filed, how many strokes do you think it would take?
Fish
Tree Freak
Here are some pics of the grinder wheel. I think I need to reverse it and see if it does any better.
When I start working on one of these chains, would I just be able to work on one tooth at a time so I am sure I can get it back to normal? If I hand filed, how many strokes do you think it would take?
Stick with the grinder for now... Do you have a dressing brick? Your wheel sure needs one...
memory
ArboristSite Guru
No I do not have a dressing brick. Would any hardware store carry dressing bricks? For now, could I just use the side with the paper on it until I am able to get it dressed?
BTW, I really appreciate everybody's help.
BTW, I really appreciate everybody's help.
hangfirew8
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, it doesn't have to be the brick, it could be the diamond dust on a handle.
Flip your wheel!
get that wheel closer to a radius, drop the chain back on the guide, set it up so that the wheel is going to remove about .015 to 020 of the damaged tooth. slowly grind the tooth, and then advance to the next, and so forth until you have all that side of cutters, then reverse the vice, and check the settings and again grind the other side. Check your work! if you have removed all the rounded damage to the cutters, you are done (second chain, maybe. First chain? No way). Then if needed advance the prawl a few thousands and re-grind all the cutters, both sides. Should be getting close by now. I would then give it about 2 strokes with a good file. Next is to set the depth gages to about .025 lower than the relative height of the cutter. Do that with a flat file. Oregon makes a neet gauge for it, but you can get it close enough with matchbook cover. You now should have a half sharp chain. Ya won't set any records, but it would be decent enough to cut some wood.
Sharpening a chain well is a task learned by making mistakes. It takes years to really get this. You should be able to get it cutting well enough to "get by". Humble pie is a dish best served cold. It was a cold day when I thought I had a sharp chain... Steve was cutting for me, and dished up a fine helping of pie. I went back to the shop with my tail and my half sharp chain between my legs. I then realize how far I have to go yet :bang:
-Pat
get that wheel closer to a radius, drop the chain back on the guide, set it up so that the wheel is going to remove about .015 to 020 of the damaged tooth. slowly grind the tooth, and then advance to the next, and so forth until you have all that side of cutters, then reverse the vice, and check the settings and again grind the other side. Check your work! if you have removed all the rounded damage to the cutters, you are done (second chain, maybe. First chain? No way). Then if needed advance the prawl a few thousands and re-grind all the cutters, both sides. Should be getting close by now. I would then give it about 2 strokes with a good file. Next is to set the depth gages to about .025 lower than the relative height of the cutter. Do that with a flat file. Oregon makes a neet gauge for it, but you can get it close enough with matchbook cover. You now should have a half sharp chain. Ya won't set any records, but it would be decent enough to cut some wood.
Sharpening a chain well is a task learned by making mistakes. It takes years to really get this. You should be able to get it cutting well enough to "get by". Humble pie is a dish best served cold. It was a cold day when I thought I had a sharp chain... Steve was cutting for me, and dished up a fine helping of pie. I went back to the shop with my tail and my half sharp chain between my legs. I then realize how far I have to go yet :bang:
-Pat
Fish
Tree Freak
It still probably chafed down there a bit.....
splitpost
Nothing but 32:1
mate apart from the wheel needing a dressing bad and your chains need to be ground back all i see is the need to switch to semi chisel chain,as you say your not hitting the ground then your wood is dirty,semi chisel is a better chain for that wood
