Cutting black locust

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An old torque saw as the one in my avatar makes the tough stuff easier..

The old girl only comes out for locust and hedge...slower chain speed = good in the hard stuff...
 
chainsaws buzz right threw ice and hard wood. your chain type and angle of attack have a lot to do with how long you can cut before the saw chain becomes wood dull. i have been cutting hard wood and sharpening saw chain for many many years, clean wood and ice does not damage the chain!!!
a pinched saw can be avoided,IMO, you sound like an armature cutter or lacking proper technique;)

I never said they didnt,just said they dull quickly with frozen,season locust.There is also no damage to my chains,as I consider them dulling from normal use and the need for sharpening maintenance,not repairing damage.
I am not a full time professional arborist,but I am a golf course superintendent for 19 yrs now,cut a ton of trees safely and efficiently.I've been cutting over 20 yrs,and I have taken down and cut up enough trees that I have learned how to cut,and avoid pinching.My point was the wood was elevated,and I do not put my chain in the dirt.

Im not sure what you mean by armature cutter,but on my worst day,my cutting technique is 100% better than your ability to spell words like amateur.
 
Im not sure what you mean by armature cutter,but on my worst day,my cutting technique is 100% better than your ability to spell words like amateur.
ill give ya that. wanted ta spell armchair cutter:laugh:
 
Getting a little heated.I have to agree with WLL. I've cut a lot of locust and other hardwoods and seen little difference. My Bailey's RC chains like it all. The only time I've had a problem with chains dulling is when I get some trees down on the river behind me. I don't care what kinda wood your cutting, if there is sand in it you're in for a long day.
 
I am cleaning up property purchased a couple years ago and have a lot of problems cutting up what I think is black locust. The wood is very heavy, doesn't seem to rot, and I can see sparks fly when I cut at dusk. Most of what I am cutting is under 12" and has been on the ground for a while. If I stick to the red oak and poplar my Shindaiwa 352s works good. Once I start cutting the locust it seems like just a couple cuts will dull the chain. I've purchased a couple extra loops that I get sharpened, but that is getting expensive and doesn't help me get more work done on weekends so I am trying hand filing. I also just purchased a 'bigger' saw (Echo CS530). I try to minimize the number of cuts I make by cutting the smaller trees into post lengths instead of for firewood.

I think I've finally been able to convince my wife that it is not just the operator or the size of my saw and that it is the wood. I only have weekends to work and have a lot of work left to do so any advice and tips that will help me more efficiently cut black locust would be much appreciated.



No tips, but I think the locust that has laid on the ground for a couple of years is much different than when it's green. My chains dull fast on this also.


:popcorn:
 
No tips, but I think the locust that has laid on the ground for a couple of years is much different than when it's green. My chains dull fast on this also.


:popcorn:

This is exactly what Ive been cutting,and it is the most brutal wood ive ever cut .It is also the best burning wood ive ever cut up,and was immediately able to throw in the OWB.The chains just dont stay sharp long.I carry 3-4 with me,and if I need to change them out every 2 trees usually,most trees are 14-20 around at the base,and 65-80 ft tall.
Most of the trees are in a low area thats wet,so i need to get in there and cut in the very cold weather so i can get the wood out.
 
Black locust makes the best fence post materials. I wish you were close by and I would go clear your place if you need to get more! We are still building our farm towards cattle and need to add another 15,000ft of fence to the 23,000 we already have built!

Bottom line for locust? Power! The smallest saw I would use would be 55cc. If you have a lot of it, something like a Husqvarna 359 or bigger, or a Stihl MS290 or larger.

I use my old 80cc Hobbie Homelite XL800,s XL903's and Super XL925's (Have maybe 150 bucks in each one of them) and they rip and tear through that hard hood like nothin.

I used locust from our hedge rows for a lot of the line posts...actually cut the larger ones from end to end (9ft long) into quarters to get the line posts...here's A picture of the Honey Locust getting Homelite XL903 Surgury..not the Black locust which I did the same thing with.

Also at work, we use Husqvarna 357XP's for the road side clearing of trees and brush. Locust is...the most common tree we have to clear. They are enough power to do the trick.

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I cleared off a lot I sold to an equipment dealer back in '76. Split a lot of it into posts and had no problem - just takes several wedges, start on one end and chase the split down the log.

That was Black Locust though, never tried it with Honey Locust

Harry K
 
Black locust makes the best fence post materials. I wish you were close by and I would go clear your place if you need to get more! We are still building our farm towards cattle and need to add another 15,000ft of fence to the 23,000 we already have built!

Bottom line for locust? Power! The smallest saw I would use would be 55cc. If you have a lot of it, something like a Husqvarna 359 or bigger, or a Stihl MS290 or larger.

I use my old 80cc Hobbie Homelite XL800,s XL903's and Super XL925's (Have maybe 150 bucks in each one of them) and they rip and tear through that hard hood like nothin.

I used locust from our hedge rows for a lot of the line posts...actually cut the larger ones from end to end (9ft long) into quarters to get the line posts...here's A picture of the Honey Locust getting Homelite XL903 Surgury..not the Black locust which I did the same thing with.

Also at work, we use Husqvarna 357XP's for the road side clearing of trees and brush. Locust is...the most common tree we have to clear. They are enough power to do the trick.

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I do the same thing. I find it easier to cut green - as soon as I drop it. How do you cut holes for the rails? I borecut with the narrowest bar I have.
 
bump

until my neighbor started logging his place, 90% of what i cut for firewood was old, on-the-ground-and-mostly-barkless, black locust.

i touch up the chain round/chisel every other tank or so. no real problem. locust is "normal" for me. chains seem to last fordangedever in oak and maple. and osage ain't so bad.

absolutely the best firewood, when well-seasoned. creosote monster if not.

and as noted--the go-to no-rot post.
 
If you are clearing for trails, why not use the locust to border the trails, and cut up the other stuff.
 
I agree with WLL, as hard as Locust is, I can cut it all day and be just as sharp when I'm done as when I started. With that thick rough bark it gets real dirty. Lots of time people see a chunk of mud and think they can cut through it. That's like sticking your chain on a grinding stone at 6,000 RPM. If the trees have been down a while the bark usually will peel off pretty easy, and that leaves you clean wood. Also, alot of times when you see sparks flying your chain is too loose and you are wobbling the saw as you're getting started.

Wood cutting 101, get the log off the ground. Don't rock back and forth. Every time you rock forward you're sticking the tip of the bar in the dirt. Don't argue, you are. If the saw is sharp you don't need to rock. If you need to push and rock the saw is too dull to cut.

I've got a grinder, but I still hand file mostly. My local Ace hardware charges $4 to sharpen a 14" loop and $4.50 for an 18" loop. I hang my dull chains on a hook, and if I get 5 or 6 of them before touching them up, I'll just take them to Ace.

Locust is one of my favorite fire woods, it burns really hot. The suggestion to use it to border your paths is a good one, it'll be there a long time. Good luck, Joe.
 
I have a lot of locust on my property. I notice when cutting the long dead stuff, even with a sharp chain, that I don't get the "chips" that I get with softer wood. They are always smaller and more "dusty"

The chains aren't dull. If I go back to the softer stuff I'll still get the chips. Locust is some hard stuff.
 
You think black locust is hard on chains? blahhhh try cutting 2-3 cord of hedge it makes you file every tank. Hickory will make you go huh also. Keep your chains sharp and change them often.:cheers:
 
Late to the party on this one so what I say probably already has bee said...Black Locust is an amazing resource if your a farmer. They are the best material for fence post you can buy. If yours is big enough and straight enoug, my bet is you can sell it or us it your self for fencing or borders for trails. Also a really hot burning firewood.

Second...Horsepower is key here. The little saws need to have the sharpest chain just to dent the stuff. If you have to buy new...get something more than 65cc's or just ebay a good 272, 372 class Husqvarna J-Red or equivalent Stihl. Then you can get more time cutting as the saw will pull a chain further into its service cycle. Those sparks are probably the chain / bar complaining. The bigger 3/8 chain & bar combo's work better as well.

(Where I work, we clear road sides and Locust is the most common tree along those roads. 357XP is "Ok" but the old 272 is the prefered saw for that reason alone. Sharpen the chain wher we start in the morning and at lunch...)

Too bad you aren't around here..I'd take all the locust you would give me...I'd even cut it to haul it away!
 
Black Locust is just miserable stuff, the best medicne I have for it is my old Pioneer 400 with 404 chain. Not only great for fence posts, but highly prized for crane mats. When I was a kid in the 50"s, Dad & I used it for dock pilings that are still solid. All the neighbors wanted the doggone stuff so every winter we would cut & build docks. Nobody mentioned the nasty thorns that leave festerd wounds ! Find an old saw that runs slow, great for fence rows and stumps. And a great loaner saw too, I've never loaned it out to the same person twice lol!
 
Im not sure what you mean by armature cutter,but on my worst day,my cutting technique is 100% better than your ability to spell words like amateur.

Great comeback, John D. I had to rep you for that one.

Try a loop of Stihl RMC, I think you'll like it better in the hard dirty wood than the ones you're using now.
 
Black Locust is just miserable stuff, the best medicne I have for it is my old Pioneer 400 with 404 chain. Not only great for fence posts, but highly prized for crane mats. When I was a kid in the 50"s, Dad & I used it for dock pilings that are still solid. All the neighbors wanted the doggone stuff so every winter we would cut & build docks. Nobody mentioned the nasty thorns that leave festerd wounds ! Find an old saw that runs slow, great for fence rows and stumps. And a great loaner saw too, I've never loaned it out to the same person twice lol!

:laugh:
pretty darn good for your first post, sir......
:cheers:
 
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