Cutting oak trees

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Gentlemen, I believe we just got trolled.

you think so? if so I gonna be a bit miffed. I was genuinely concerned.

I can understand feeling a tad miffed if you fellows were indeed trolled. Myself, I don't care either way (regarding the suspected 'trolling') in this case. Some extremely knowledgeable folks took the time to explain stuff (with pics and diagrams no less) and I learned a lot from it.:cheers:


Has anyone else noticed the OP disappeared?

Could be that he was overwhelmed. Early on he made a "wow you've thrown a lot of terms at me" type comment. Maybe he's decided that this 'simple' tree cuttin' business ain't so simple afterall.....:D
 
yup, i'm hoping he got sic of reading. that better than.....well it could be he can't read no more or reply. I hope that not the case.

Yikes. That's not a good thought. The guy certainly seemed to be FAR too 'green' to be tackling leaners without direct supervision/guidance...
 
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Bitzer, I disagree. Bore cutting allows you to place wedges and pressure them before cutting the backwood. If the sawyer misjudges a slight lean, the saw is free and the wedges take the weight.

If a tree is standing straight up enough that you may have misjudged the lean there is absolutely no need to have bore cut it in the first place. Back cut it and read your tree. Place a wedge in lightly as a bobber if needed. It will either tip or you will need to wedge it. Unnecessarily boring and pounding wedges into back cuts wastes a lot of time and energy.

And by the way Gologit was laying out OG redwoods before you were even a thought in this world.
 
Howdy Bitzer, your first two pictures look like my stumps on heavy leaning white oaks. The only difference is I'm not standing behind the stump for the 2nd/final back cut. I move off to the text book "safe-zone" area using the back bar again. So, 1st back cut I'm standing behind the stump perpendicular to the hinge. 2nd back cut my bar is parallel to the hinge and I'm neither diretly behind the stump nor 90* to the face. So question is, should I be behind the stump or does it matter in most cases? Everything I've learned says don't stand behind the stump.

Thanks for the explanation and pics on the no face coos. I don't recall ever seeing or hearing about the no face coos but then again, I haven't been on AS for long! By looking at your pic, I can see how it works... Good job sir :msp_thumbup:

Are you starting your second back cut close the hinge and moving back? On bigger timber you can't really stand directly behind it anyway. You sort of have to work from the hinge back. If its working and you feel safe about it, I'm sure its fine. There is all kinds of room for improvisation in timber falling. I think that is what makes a good faller.
 
If a tree is standing straight up enough that you may have misjudged the lean there is absolutely no need to have bore cut it in the first place. Back cut it and read your tree. Place a wedge in lightly as a bobber if needed. It will either tip or you will need to wedge it. Unnecessarily boring and pounding wedges into back cuts wastes a lot of time and energy.

And by the way Gologit was laying out OG redwoods before you were even a thought in this world.

Well said Bitz ....oh and good explanation on earlier post ........I was gonna chime in as I really didn't get his theory but hey ho lol
 
Well said Bitz ....oh and good explanation on earlier post ........I was gonna chime in as I really didn't get his theory but hey ho lol

Thank you sir!


And thanks to Gologit too! I'm about average on the timber falling thing. Flat ground that is. I bet I'd make a mess of a steep hillside full of tall conifers.

Well looks the OP got scared again. If I had a dollar for every thread like this. Oh well. He could at least have the common courtesy to say thanks.
 
Thank you sir!


And thanks to Gologit too! I'm about average on the timber falling thing. Flat ground that is. I bet I'd make a mess of a steep hillside full of tall conifers.

Well looks the OP got scared again. If I had a dollar for every thread like this. Oh well. He could at least have the common courtesy to say thanks.

or let us know ifn he is alive.
 
Some extremely knowledgeable folks took the time to explain stuff D

You're welcome Aaron, glad to be of service:msp_biggrin:



If y'all remember the original post was something about wanting a short video on how to fall white oak leaners. Don't suspect trolling, just a dude who got more than he bargained for. He shoulda asked it in the chainsaw forum.

I don't think jake bores, and really can't get my head around what he means. He's smart, so the post prolly makes sense, but not to me or the old englishman
 
Are you starting your second back cut close the hinge and moving back? On bigger timber you can't really stand directly behind it anyway. You sort of have to work from the hinge back. If its working and you feel safe about it, I'm sure its fine. There is all kinds of room for improvisation in timber falling. I think that is what makes a good faller.

I usually start the second back cut from the back and work towards the holding wood. What you said about not really bein able to stand behind the stump is true and I'll probably try it that way next time... Starting from the hinge and work back.
 
You're welcome Aaron, glad to be of service:msp_biggrin:



If y'all remember the original post was something about wanting a short video on how to fall white oak leaners. Don't suspect trolling, just a dude who got more than he bargained for. He shoulda asked it in the chainsaw forum.

I don't think jake bores, and really can't get my head around what he means. He's smart, so the post prolly makes sense, but not to me or the old englishman

I'm a scot lol and I must admit I am a tad confused lol.......however I think it could be either he asking bitz bout the coos ......or he talking bout releasing the back strap after a GOL style tech ......
 
Lol, what's important is that this information is out there and hopefully it'll help a few more people.

They just need to weed through the BS. That's all part of being on a forum.

FUTURE THREAD READERS: Listen to bitzer.
 
If a tree is standing straight up enough that you may have misjudged the lean there is absolutely no need to have bore cut it in the first place. Back cut it and read your tree. Place a wedge in lightly as a bobber if needed. It will either tip or you will need to wedge it. Unnecessarily boring and pounding wedges into back cuts wastes a lot of time and energy.

And by the way Gologit was laying out OG redwoods before you were even a thought in this world.

You two have a serious Bromance going on.
 
If a tree is standing straight up enough that you may have misjudged the lean there is absolutely no need to have bore cut it in the first place. Back cut it and read your tree. Place a wedge in lightly as a bobber if needed. It will either tip or you will need to wedge it. Unnecessarily boring and pounding wedges into back cuts wastes a lot of time and energy.

And by the way Gologit was laying out OG redwoods before you were even a thought in this world.

How many years are you claiming? I'll let you know if it is more years than my woods experience or time on the planet.
 
How many years are you claiming? I'll let you know if it is more years than my woods experience or time on the planet.

Don't be a Dork lol........and I wouldn't go head ta head with Gologit on experience .....ya will lose lol
 
How many years are you claiming? I'll let you know if it is more years than my woods experience or time on the planet.

I've got a lot of respect for anyone who has cut old growth timber on the west coast. Especially when American made saws were running the show. Men like Gologit are getting fewer and farther between. I'm sure he has seen his share of 1 log loads. Something I'd have would have love to been a part of. In that size of wood you would have no idea of where to begin in putting them on the ground or what to do with it if you did get it down. You should shut your ####### trap and you might learn something. Or you could keep mindlessly bore cutting every single ####### tree you come across. There is no skill involved in popping a chip out and boring it. Any monkey with some proficiency with a saw can do it. The art of timber falling is an entirely different story that you may likely never know anything about. Here is a question for you- before there were power saws how did the boys get trees on the ground with axes and cross-cuts? They didn't bore a ####### thing. Good luck.
 
I've got a lot of respect for anyone who has cut old growth timber on the west coast. Especially when American made saws were running the show. Men like Gologit are getting fewer and farther between. I'm sure he has seen his share of 1 log loads. Something I'd have would have love to been a part of. In that size of wood you would have no idea of where to begin in putting them on the ground or what to do with it if you did get it down. You should shut your ####### trap and you might learn something. Or you could keep mindlessly bore cutting every single ####### tree you come across. There is no skill involved in popping a chip out and boring it. Any monkey with some proficiency with a saw can do it. The art of timber falling is an entirely different story that you may likely never know anything about. Here is a question for you- before there were power saws how did the boys get trees on the ground with axes and cross-cuts? They didn't bore a ####### thing. Good luck.

Kinda sums things up lol
 

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