"Different" 2-cycle oil!

[missouriboy]

Is woodland pro mix oils any good.

 

[FergusonTO35]

My local Wally has a synthetic called "G-Oil". The price is pretty good, think I'll give it a try.

 

[tdi-rick]

Have you tried Motul 800 Road Racing?? The bike shop was out of stock on the Off Road yesterday so i bought the Road Racing and used it all day and not that anything will grenade i'm just wondering if its as good as the Off Road for saws.

No I have not.

For the most part it's the exact same oil, consider them interchangeable. I believe the Road race oil has a slightly higher flash point, and is slightly more viscous, so it may smoke a little more, but I highly doubt you'll notice any difference.

I reckon it'd actually be better as a road race GP engine spends a hell of a lot more time at WOT/peak revs than an MXer or Enduro bike engine does.

As Andre said it's slightly heavier than the OR blend and recommended to be mixed @ 25-30:1 or thereabouts (don't have a spec sheet on the lappy)

 

[tdi-rick]

I've noticed that the stihl ultra has a cleaning ability for older used engines. I'm curious if the dirt bike oils also have this ability?

Stihl Ultra is a JASO FB licensed oil.

You'll find any JASO FC or FD oil will have excellent cleaning properties and not leave hard deposits as they are designed to have good detergency and keep power valves functioning.

 

[KenJax Tree]

I reckon it'd actually be better as a road race GP engine spends a hell of a lot more time at WOT/peak revs than an MXer or Enduro bike engine does.

As Andre said it's slightly heavier than the OR blend and recommended to be mixed @ 25-30:1 or thereabouts (don't have a spec sheet on the lappy)

Yeah thats what i was thinking. The bottle says 25:1-33:1

 

[heimannm]

Fish asked a long time ago, and I have never noticed anyone point out a specific case, but has anyone ever had a documented "oil related" failure other than straight gassed or other extreme lean (carburetor, intake, impulse, or seal failure)?

Now that I've got that off my chest, I am using Amsoil Sabre and about 50:1 only because I like the fragrance when the saws are running.

I had run perhaps 100 gallons of mix through my old Jonsered 621 using mostly TSC branded petroleum based oil (the old small black bottles), saw ran for 26 years before the PTO side bearing finally gave out, piston and cylinder was just fine until the ball bearings try to get through.

Mark

 

[tdi-rick]

Fish asked a long time ago, and I have never noticed anyone point out a specific case, but has anyone ever had a documented "oil related" failure other than straight gassed or other extreme lean (carburetor, intake, impulse, or seal failure)?

Now that I've got that off my chest, I am using Amsoil Sabre and about 50:1 only because I like the fragrance when the saws are running.

I had run perhaps 100 gallons of mix through my old Jonsered 621 using mostly TSC branded petroleum based oil (the old small black bottles), saw ran for 26 years before the PTO side bearing finally gave out, piston and cylinder was just fine until the ball bearings try to get through.

Mark

Put it this way, some of the big Stihl dealers in logging areas here have observed a lot more wear on 660/880 saws when running the recommended 50:1 over saws running 25-32:1.

Husqvarna still recommend 25-30:1 for the 3120 here too.

 

[blsnelling]

Andre, I love it when you talk oil to me:wink2:

I recommend that my customers run any FULL synthetic oil at 32:1, no less than 40:1. With that said, My preference is Belray H1-R or Maxima K2. I had no complaints with some of the others, but these two are easiest for me to get. I'm also a big fan of Bailey's full synthetic oil. I tore a MS441 down that was used extensively for milling and it still had the limiter caps installed. You could see that the P&C had seen a LOT of heat, yet there was no scuffing at all. I was sold.

 

[blsnelling]

Put it this way, some of the big Stihl dealers in logging areas here have observed a lot more wear on 660/880 saws when running the recommended 50:1 over saws running 25-32:1.

Husqvarna still recommend 25-30:1 for the 3120 here too.

Most guys will get away with running 50:1, even on ported saws. However, I'm convinced that running 32:1 gives a greater margin for error, and will likely extend the life of the bottom end. That's just all the more important on a ported saw that's turning more RPMs, and making more HP, thus more heat.

 

[Andyshine77]

Fish asked a long time ago, and I have never noticed anyone point out a specific case, but has anyone ever had a documented "oil related" failure other than straight gassed or other extreme lean (carburetor, intake, impulse, or seal failure)?

Now that I've got that off my chest, I am using Amsoil Sabre and about 50:1 only because I like the fragrance when the saws are running.

I had run perhaps 100 gallons of mix through my old Jonsered 621 using mostly TSC branded petroleum based oil (the old small black bottles), saw ran for 26 years before the PTO side bearing finally gave out, piston and cylinder was just fine until the ball bearings try to get through.

Mark

Mark IMHO 50:1 is just fine in most circumstances. However I've only seen positives running more oil. I see less scuffing, more power, more oil in the case and the seals stay nice and wet:msp_smile:. Have I seen oil related failures? well I've seen the inside of a saw that was ran on Amsoil Saber @ 100:1 and it wasn't pretty. I've also seen a few saws ran on orange bottle Stihl oil, and I saw lots of buildup, but even than it was on a high hour saw. To me right now lubrication isn't the issue, cleanliness long term is.

I simply try to provide the best information I have at the time, based on my own first hand experience and research. Your mileage may vary. As of now the best oils I've ran are the ones I've already listed.

 

[Andyshine77]

I reckon it'd actually be better as a road race GP engine spends a hell of a lot more time at WOT/peak revs than an MXer or Enduro bike engine does.

As Andre said it's slightly heavier than the OR blend and recommended to be mixed @ 25-30:1 or thereabouts (don't have a spec sheet on the lappy)

Correct, that was my assumption as well.

 

[Andyshine77]

I've noticed that the stihl ultra has a cleaning ability for older used engines. I'm curious if the dirt bike oils also have this ability?

Yes the better oils normally have a cleaning effect. Some of this is do to the detergents in the add pack and the solvents, some of it is do to the oil base oil itself.

 

[Andyshine77]

AnyShine: You got any opinion about *if* the oils viscosity being different
that a person could (or a saw carb rather ) would show any difference
in the atomization of the fuel mix?
I'm thinking would be subtle like like using winter blend gasoline
in summer blend ambient temperatures.

my contribution to todays oil thread clusterflick

Each oil for one reason or another effects tuning to a degree, just like the fuel it's self. So yes viscosity or density changes the mixture.

 

[cheeves]

The only reason I put up this thread is that my father , who worked as a mechanic for American Airlines for many years, drummed into our heads the importance of good clean oil. He was in the first class for jets and they used synthetic oils, at the time ground breaking.

 

[blsnelling]

Eon E-11?

 

[cmarti]

FWIW Spectrum (used to, this may have changed in the last few years) blend US Echo, Shinny, Dolmar and Husky oils and Omni blended Stihl (to a Castrol/Stihl specification)
Stihl also imported some Castrol/Stihl oil from Europe at times.

The Shinny "Red Armor" smells just like the Poulan Synthetic did (a little like Ultra). I have searched and searched for that smell since I can't get the Poulan Synthetic. I have no idea if the Red Armor is a good oil, but it smells right.....and that is what is really important:msp_razz:

Actually....The Stihl Dealer was the opposite way of where I was headed, and the Husky-Echo dealer was out of Powerblend, so I bought Red Armor.......It really does smell like the Poulan/Ultra and it is a pretty Red.:msp_thumbup: Is it burning ester base that gives some syns that smell? It claims to be the AutoRX of 2 cycle oils for it's cleaning capability:dunno:

 

[mdavlee]

I'm going to try some maxima 927 next. I'm out of belray h1r and I wanted to try something new.

 

[jughead500]

Maxima 927 castor smells good enough to Huff out of the Muffler.:msp_thumbup::msp_thumbup: ran a bottle of that here a while back.Just too expensive to use all of the time though.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm going to try some maxima 927 next. I'm out of belray h1r and I wanted to try something new.

That's all I ever ran in my built Banshee. Smells awesome.

 

[Wolfcsm]

The Shinny "Red Armor" smells just like the Poulan Synthetic did (a little like Ultra). I have searched and searched for that smell since I can't get the Poulan Synthetic. I have no idea if the Red Armor is a good oil, but it smells right.....and that is what is really important:msp_razz:

Actually....The Stihl Dealer was the opposite way of where I was headed, and the Husky-Echo dealer was out of Powerblend, so I bought Red Armor.......It really does smell like the Poulan/Ultra and it is a pretty Red.:msp_thumbup: Is it burning ester base that gives some syns that smell? It claims to be the AutoRX of 2 cycle oils for it's cleaning capability:dunno:

The guy I buy Echo things from told me that Echo would not honor their warranty unless RED Armor wa the mix. Said that Stihl FB synthetic mix would not do. Needed the FD standard.

I have run RED Armor in my Echo trimmer and hedge trimmer for a while now. The 8 year old trimmer seems to be running better than it ever did.

I will probably change everything over to RED Armor this summer and see what happens.

Hal