Do You Prefer: "Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars"

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Full Wrap vs. Half Wrap Handlebars for Tree Falling

  • Full Wrap

    Votes: 51 47.7%
  • Half Wrap

    Votes: 56 52.3%

  • Total voters
    107
It is possible to cut a stump pretty close with a full wrap if the stump is small and the bar is long.

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I have a few saws with full wrap and I do like the versatility. Half wrap saws are also handy, why not keep a bunch of both around just in case?

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Mark
 
I have all 1/2 wraps and cut fine flipping the saw, backbarring, and operating ambidextrously. That said, they all have their place so I prefer none of them 100% of the time.
 
It is possible to cut a stump pretty close with a full wrap if the stump is small and the bar is long.

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I have a few saws with full wrap and I do like the versatility. Half wrap saws are also handy, why not keep a bunch of both around just in case?

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Mark

Nice line up you gots there:monkey:
 
It is possible to cut a stump pretty close with a full wrap if the stump is small and the bar is long.

What's the key to stump cutting? You look like a pro at it in the picture. I've only tried one, and cutting the stump in half heighth-wise was a challenge in itself, let alone ground cutting it. Do you wedge them at all? Doesn't the bar get froze in the kerf? Maybe the key is not to use a laminate bar. :dizzy:

I have a few saws with full wrap and I do like the versatility. Half wrap saws are also handy, why not keep a bunch of both around just in case?

That's a very good idea! Maybe as time allows. For some reason I think I have to buy the newer, more expensive saws, so it takes longer to build up a variety. All of mine aren't fancy, but it seems the more I get interested in saws, the more I steer towards newer saws with readily available parts resources. Example being, my Mac PM1000 and Titans, as well as the Jonsered 490. Parts for all of them are about obsolete. You know how that goes, I bet. :) I'd like to get involved with the older saws, but finicky breaker and also magneto ignition systems has deterred me away. Not that I don't know how they operate or how to repair them. Just that i've dealt with enough headaches repairing or hunting for parts on old tractor and truck ignitions to the point that saws with CDI's and modules snap their fingers at me, and bat their eyes! But it's getting to the point where resources for some of them are even getting extinct. If companies would just stick with a design. My Titans aren't that old and they are getting to be a rarely mentioned model, just chalk it up to a poorly managed business.

Long live the "Fat Bottomed 600-series"! Most versatile and distributed saw ever! :cheers:

Know any good Wico magneto repairman down your way, Mark? I've got a Wico 4-cyl distributor on a tractor that needs TLC. I'd fix it myself, but I don't have the parts resources.
 
Rope, I wasn't man enough to hold the 840 with 36" bar level when cutting the notch, it was just a short trunk (15-18') and a rope on the top so all I had to do was weaken it enough so they could pull it over. It's not pretty, but it fell down where we wanted it to.

ProMac1K - Ropensaddle knows better, I just happed to have a long enough bar to reach all the way through and eyed it as close as possible. I am not very skillful, I just happen to have a lot of saws and don't mind using them.

I don't know about repairs of the Wico but there is a local e-Bay seller called Iowa Farm Antiques that may know someone.

Mark
 
I've only ever been in one situation where I could have used a full wrap-rocky slope on the pennsylvania hills. Back barring is the norm with me. :)

Most of the cutting I do is: open face w/ plunge cut to minimize grain pull.
 
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What's the key to stump cutting? You look like a pro at it in the picture. I've only tried one, and cutting the stump in half heighth-wise was a challenge in itself, let alone ground cutting it. Do you wedge them at all? Doesn't the bar get froze in the kerf? Maybe the key is not to use a laminate bar. :dizzy:
.
Not very many flush cuts are ideal like the one Mark did here (it's like cutting off a fence post). Most stumps flare out at the ground, are on a slope, have a flower bed of dirt mounded up next to them, or all the above.
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Anything but a halfwrap is useless when falling highgrade timber as every inch counts for an ultra low stump. Also useless in this application is the retarded reverse Humbolt or whatever they call it, where the wedge is taken out of the stump as opposed to the log. However, in defence of the full wrap and reverse Humbolt, every forested situation varies depending on where in the country you are working.
John
 
I like my full-wrap 660 for falling. Thats actually the only saw i have that has a full wrap. I like it cause it keeps the bar out of the dirt when u set the saw down as well.
 
Rope, I wasn't man enough to hold the 840 with 36" bar level when cutting the notch, it was just a short trunk (15-18') and a rope on the top so all I had to do was weaken it enough so they could pull it over. It's not pretty, but it fell down where we wanted it to.

ProMac1K - Ropensaddle knows better, I just happed to have a long enough bar to reach all the way through and eyed it as close as possible. I am not very skillful, I just happen to have a lot of saws and don't mind using them.

I don't know about repairs of the Wico but there is a local e-Bay seller called Iowa Farm Antiques that may know someone.

Mark
I ran a couple of those old pro macs they had grunt but were hefty for sure good saws though!
 
Nah na nah boo boo:laugh: Actually I don't call 56" oak a shrub, cub; my modded dawgs would put an azzwhoopin on those stealz lmao:cheers:

lol i thought that might rile ya up. but hey >.O a 56 foot tree is a shrub compared to a 180 foot fir. and no offence but a husky is like stihls special cousin. and not special in a good way. but to be honest my main complaints with the husky are as follows 1. take longer to start than stihls in general 2. switches are all out of wack 3. full wrap dont handle as well as stihls 3/4 4. the dogs looks retarded 5. everything else. i do like there air filtration system though. the av is alright too.
 
clearance ol' buddy... you can explain it all day and they just won't get it. Whether he thinks it a "crock" :laugh: or not... I wouldn't go any further explainin' it.

I use 3/4 wraps myself...

Gary
Yup' if ya gotta explain it they prolly dont need it same as "why long bars" same thing if ya gotta explain it they dont need it. Stihl 3/4 wrap best handle made gotta figure out how to get one on my 372xpw. If ya cut big trees on hill sides youll figure it out real quick.
 
lol i thought that might rile ya up. but hey >.O a 56 foot tree is a shrub compared to a 180 foot fir. and no offence but a husky is like stihls special cousin. and not special in a good way. but to be honest my main complaints with the husky are as follows 1. take longer to start than stihls in general 2. switches are all out of wack 3. full wrap dont handle as well as stihls 3/4 4. the dogs looks retarded 5. everything else. i do like there air filtration system though. the av is alright too.

Ok first, it was 56 in DBH not 56 foot, more like 110 foot, no doubt yours are bigger but no way it is defined as a shrub. I see it different see; Stihl is more like husky's #####:love1:, hence MS and if you learned how to start a saw that was not choked full of debris like sthils are,:buttkick: you would not have a problem. I don't care for the rubix cube caps and switch's only a #####:love1: saw would have. Other than all that they are worthy to cuddle up to my big dawgs:cheers:
 
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Ok first, it was 56 in DBH not 56 foot, more like 110 foot, no doubt yours are bigger but no way it is defined as a shrub. I see it different see; Stihl is more like husky's #####:love1:, hence MS and if you learned how to start a saw that was not choked full of debris like sthils are,:buttkick: you would not have a problem. I don't care for the rubix cube caps and switch's only a #####:love1: saw would have. Other than all that they are worthy to cuddle up to my big dawgs:cheers:

lol my old 044 which is almost as old as i am will start 3rd pull from cold. and fine your tree wasnt a shrub. but huskys are still a bit special. and how do you figure stihls are like a rubix cube the choke and kill switch is all in one. works great. flippy caps are awesome unless you think you need to pour dirt over the caps. the dogsd will always be ugly
 
lol my old 044 which is almost as old as i am will start 3rd pull from cold. and fine your tree wasnt a shrub. but huskys are still a bit special. and how do you figure stihls are like a rubix cube the choke and kill switch is all in one. works great. flippy caps are awesome unless you think you need to pour dirt over the caps. the dogsd will always be ugly

Yup my dawgs will always be ugly but they have the dog #### worked out of them too. I cut my teeth on old school choke separate from switch and simple screw caps; leave it to stihl to try to change something that has worked fine for thousands of years the screw. Anyway my 395 fell in love with my MS 200t and they breed a MS 192 and now the two 372"s are fighting for her:cheers:
 
Yup my dawgs will always be ugly but they have the dog #### worked out of them too. I cut my teeth on old school choke separate from switch and simple screw caps; leave it to stihl to try to change something that has worked fine for thousands of years the screw. Anyway my 395 fell in love with my MS 200t and they breed a MS 192 and now the two 372"s are fighting for her:cheers:

so am i wrong in assuming 372 is your "main" saw? have you any first hand experience comparing 372/371 with a 046/044? i havent heard nothin bad bout the 372 but i cant find nothin to complain about with my 044
 

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