Does this seem safe?

shop deals on amazon
Wesspur
Rugged made
Treestuff
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
S

strizman

New Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
2
Reaction score
1
Location
upstate NY
New to chain saw use. Mechanically inclined, reasonable common sense, fairly fit 6'4'' 57yo male. Have found a good running stihl031av with a 20in oregon bar--all roughly 30 years old (pre electronic ignition). Have read up on kickback, watched alot of You tube videos on saw safety, and recently purchased chaps/helmet/face screen/hearing protection. This saw has no chain brake! Is it stupid, risky, ill advised to use this thing? I love older well made classic equipment (i.e. drive a 68 VW bug and boat a classic Boston Whaler), and really have a fondness for this saw. But will be using it to cut smallish firewood in a remote/isolated setting in upstate NY. Additionally, will be teaching my boys (18 and 21) how to use this. Should I forget about it, pass it on to someone with more expertise, and buy a new safer rig? Would I gain much by dropping down to a shorter bar with safe chain setup? Thanks for any input.
 
I mean, you're down with a car wihtout airbags (but presumably a seatbelt), so you're clearly not obsessively driven to have all the safety gizmos the world has to offer.

That said, I consider a chainbrake to be pretty basic. Especially if you're teaching your kids, I'd consider getting another saw with a chainbrake. In normal use I've had mine go off several times.

I think there's also an element of application involved. If you're going to simply buck up log length with no branches and not work in a forestry environment, you're better off without a chainbrake there than in a complicated limbing/bucking/felling environment out in the field.
 
I'd use it, but I'm a moron. Do the safe thing, and ship it to me for proper disposal.

In all seriousness though, a chainbrake is a must...especially for a less experienced user.

In some cases you can retrofit them. Hopefully someone above my pay grade will let you know if that is possible for your saw.
 
Years ago when I was younger and even more stupid than I am now, the chain brake on my Husky 51 saved my head (probably from being sawed in half!). So I would say a Chainbrake is important, especially when you're just learning to use a saw.:monkey:
 
Something else to consider is the relative poor power to weight ratio of an older saw like an 031. Overall risk on any job includes a combination of many factors such as exposure and operator fatigue. The longer a saw is used to complete a task the heavier the saw the more fatigued the operator becomes, and the greater the risk. A chain brake is then in someways an added bonus. Lowest risk is obviously learning on a lighter more powerful saw, with a chain brake.

I'd keep the 031, but get a saw with a chain brake and get some CS user experience with that first and also let the kids learn and work on the safer saw.

Then maybe consider giving the 031 a few workouts and decide whether it's really as attractive as the idea of running an old saw sounds sounds. If you like to fire up an old saw once in a while to keep it ticking over that's fine, maybe you cut all your fire wood with it and (like me) don't care that it takes you 20% longer, but at least you are doing it from a better informed position. Sometimes it nice to have a choice.
 
well im not gonna knock the 031 , its a great saw for what it is , i have one , and i like it , the thing you have to consider is do you really want to be surprised by how much power this lil thing carrys, i would say learn on a 026 with a chainbreak , lighter saw easier to handle , the first saw i ever ran was a lil top handle 015 , but i was under the supervision of my dad when i did this . the first saw i ever bought was a 032 stihl , no chainbrake on that one either , but by then i already knew how to handle a saw ,
in my own opinion alot of people get complacient with a saw after running it a while , if your carefull and watch what your doing i think you could learn alot with this saw, but be very carefull and pay close attention to what your cutting and your surroundings ,
 
I have to say that chain brakes are useless untill you need them... I would also say that the bigger the saw, the LESS you need one, I know that when
I have 36 inches of bar burried with the 066 I am paying more attention, and holding the saw tighter, but with a little overhandle, and using it with one hand and not paying that colse attention cause it is a whimpy saw, a brake is probably more usefull, I bet if I ever get hurt using a saw (by the saw and not a tree driving me into the ground) it will be with a litter saw.
 
i say get it, and i also say hang around on this site a little and you'll end up getting some other saws pretty quick.
Better to use a saw with a chainbrake for the most of your cutting, especially if your teaching somebody, but theres no harm in using saws without chainbrakes once in a while for fun.
e.g. when i go out to get firewood i wanna cut as much as i can quickly and safely - so i use an 066 with 20" bar to cut to moveable lengths, once ive got them home and have plenty of time i'll often fire up something older and a lot more relaxed to dock them up to foot lengths for the fire maybe an 08s (no chainbrake) or even the 090 if i haven't had much excercise lately..
Also ive never had a chainbrake go off on me - always pays to respect something that can do a lot of damage quickly.
 
If the VW is closer to a 67 it won't have seat belts. 68 is the first year for them...

This type of saw isn't good to teach kids, but you might do ok with it. That depends on if you can see the way to use it and not EVER hit the tip in wood the wrong way, and throttle controll.

There is a lot of guys that bled out with saw like that, and more who used a modern saw that didn't kill them.

The fact you are taller, probably means your arms are longer, and to a saw it just gives a bit more room to allow it to come at you 'if' you make an error.

Just my opinion.
 
Lots of good advice here. For my part, if it were just you using the saw, I'd say go ahead and be careful. However, since you'll be teaching your kids, I'd say that the chain brake is a must. Since it takes only a split second of distraction to make a serious mistake, and since you are responsible for the safety of anybody you are teaching, go for the up-to-date safety equipment. Keep the 031, you'll want to use it later. For now, get something like a Stihl MS361 or a Husqvarna 357XP. Run a 16" or 18" bar, and you'll have all the power you need and will come to appreciate the quality and capabilities of a good professional saw.

Also, I'd seriously consider some chaps or other leg protection. That being said, I've never been cut or had a chain brake go off, but I do most all of my cutting alone and devote full attention to what I'm doing. Still, I use all the PPE all of the time. Why take an unnecessary risk when the downside is really serious? I know a guy who almost lost an arm in a kickback accident. The scar looks pretty bad. I think of that guy sometimes, and it makes me be more careful. Think of chainsaw use the same as gun handling. Have fun but never forget good safety practices.

Welcome to the site, have fun and stay safe. There are people on here who really know what they are doing and will gladly help you out.
 
I would use it, and love using it.







BUT, this is comming from a guy with a missing finger, and who is layed up because of a busted up ankle and a sprained ankle along with a bruised heel. So YMMV.....................
 
I would use it also but it might not be the first saw I grab if I had a choice and thats not because it doesnt have a brake, good advice to pick up a newer model and use it some also after using both you will probably like the newer chainsaw because there lighter and vibrate less and usually start easier, then you will have a saw with a brake to teach your boys on wether its ever needed or not.
 
If you are new to using a chainsaw, I think a brake is a must. I suppose it depends a little on how you plan to use it. On flat, level, open ground, maybe less needed. However, chain brakes are very useful when moving in and around tripping hazards, even if you never take a kick. For that reason alone, I want a chain break on my saw. Every time I am moving more than a few steps, stepping over stuff, or walking in brush, I flip the brake on.

Also, an 031 is heavy compared to some of today's saws. Less weight = less tired = fewer mistakes.
 
Thanks for all of the very helpful advice. I am convinced of the wisdom of getting something with a chain brake, and have someone here very interested in this 031av for $200. That should put a dint in the $600 cost of a new ms361--which I now covet. Or perhaps its replacement 362 (which this fantastic site alerted me to). And then again, I'm tempted to keep the 031, and begin collecting the little beasts, as I can appreciate already the addiction. Before I do unload it, however, I might just take the chain off
and stand quietly in the periphery of my porch with a hockey mask, ready to fire it up as the teenagers come to the door this Halloween.
The Husky 357xp was also mentioned. Any other advice? I really enjoy quality equipment, but wonder if maybe I'm overreaching for a guy who will likely only be using this stuff 4 to 6 times a year. Having purchased used and low end stuff in my youth, now tend to go for the high end goodies. Starting to view it as justifiable heirloom goods. Again, thanks for your help.
 
strizman said:
Thanks for all of the very helpful advice. I am convinced of the wisdom of getting something with a chain brake, and have someone here very interested in this 031av for $200. That should put a dint in the $600 cost of a new ms361--which I now covet. Or perhaps its replacement 362 (which this fantastic site alerted me to). And then again, I'm tempted to keep the 031, and begin collecting the little beasts, as I can appreciate already the addiction. Before I do unload it, however, I might just take the chain off
and stand quietly in the periphery of my porch with a hockey mask, ready to fire it up as the teenagers come to the door this Halloween.
The Husky 357xp was also mentioned. Any other advice? I really enjoy quality equipment, but wonder if maybe I'm overreaching for a guy who will likely only be using this stuff 4 to 6 times a year. Having purchased used and low end stuff in my youth, now tend to go for the high end goodies. Starting to view it as justifiable heirloom goods. Again, thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

You can never go wrong buying top of the line equipment. If well cared for, it will hold its value for a long long time. If you are buying new (and that is what I'd recommend right now) go to a dealer with a good selection and a good service department, who can also get parts for you with no hassle. Both the Stihl and Husqvarna products are first rate, and there's always a "Coke vs. Pepsi" type rivalry you see on AS as well as other places where pro saws are used. If there were a Stihl dealer down the street and no Husky dealer for 100 miles, go for Stihl, and vice versa. Be sure to use fresh (less than 30 day old) premium gas, use Stihl or Husky 2-stroke oil, and buy 3 or 4 chains. When one wears down, swap it out for a fresh one. Then, learn how to file your own chains. There is lots of information on chain sharpening on this site. Good luck and stay safe.
 
if your asking strangers if it is safe then the obviuos answer is no. you know your knowledge level you know your linitations. why dont you rent a newer saw to try out first. or find someone close with a saw to show you

now about the saw its an oldie but a fair goodie . get it if you want use it when you feel comfortable with it . i would suggest though a 16" or mabe a 18" bar .20" will work but a little taxing on this size.
 
the main drawback of the 357xp is the fact that it is substantially more expensive (at least by MSRP) than the 361. Most will agree that the 357xp and 361 are equal, and maybe that the 361 has a little bit of an edge as a result of more torque. The 361 also has the advantage of the internal clutch, which is a bit less of a hassle to deal with for most. MSRP on a 357xp hangs around $660, while 361s have been hanging at 600 list and $575ish in reality at many dealers.

362 is supposed to be 80-100 beans more so who knows? In my opinion if you're paying over 600 for a 60cc saw you might as well pay 100 more shop around and get a 372xp.
 

Similar threads

Huskvarna hotellgäst
How "unsafe" is Oregon 34LG chain, today?
Replies
17
Views
2K
Huskybill
Huskybill
thechknhwk
Thoughts on 40cc Hitachi
Replies
6
Views
2K
SkippyKtm
SkippyKtm
L
Safe-T-Tip -- Do They Work?
Replies
10
Views
7K
CTYank
CTYank

Latest posts

Back
Top