Dolmar PS-7900,I love it!!

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120super

Terry,
It's a 120 Super. Says Sachs Dolmar on it. it would be a 4.1 ci saw, correct?
Steve

So the 120 i just put motor mounts in for my buddy must be an SI? it's marked Dolmar, on the side, and it it too is a 4.1ci Is the SI newer than the Super
 
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Yea both the 120Super and 120Si are 4.2 saws (we round UP).
That is about the time that the Sachs name was dropped. The basic difference between the 120Super and the 120Si was the addition of the Injection Carburetor S = Super i = injection. If the saw has an i on it, it must be a 120Si. The 120Si replaced the 120Super and the 120Si was eventually replaced by the PS6800i and that is when i believe the name was only Dolmar, but i could be wrong.

Terry
 
I saw you won that saw. I dont go online much on the weekends and spent the memorial day extended out goofin off. I wanted to send that one out to get "dozerized" . At that price, I could afford to have one tinkered with by a pro. Hope you like it and have it cranked up so we can hear how it all turns out! JB
 
120 super

JB,
Steve here...
Like I said...If ya gotta have the saw, I'll set you up.
$200 to your door. I've got plenty others to play with
Steve
 
Dolmar Terry: i recently rented a Makita 64 CC Chainsaw from Home Depot to cut some Oak into firewood. I was impresssed by the power, however i was extremely upset and disappointed with the chain they had on it. It had a Carleton Bar and Chain on it, in my opinion was a POS! it dulled out after a half hour, was smoking the wood like crazy, (chain was smoking hot!) . and no i was not cutting dirty wood. i took it back and Home Depot was great, they gave me another makita chain saw which had a new chain on it (Carleton) again, and the chain was as lousy as the first. i took it back again and Home Depot again was great and apologized saying that they put new chains on all their makita rentals. (The chains did look new)

Question #1. What brand Bar/Chain combo do u recommend?

Question/Concern #2? The chain kept loosening up? was it because of over heating, or was it the POS chain?

I am interested in buying this particular chainsaw, (it's got balls!) but i need some advice on which brand/type bar and Chain to buy.
Thanks, Mark
 
Mark, I've used Carlton chain for years with complete satisfaction. It is possible that you got chain from a bad lot but I rather doubt it. No offense, but you probably hit something in the wood or(more likely) under it and dulled the chains. As far as brands go Chain in order of preference: Stihl, Carlton, Oregon. That order is before you have to pay for them-when the $$ come into play I move Stihl to the bottom of the list.

Bars: Stihl, Oregon, Windsor, Carlton. Most of mine are Oregon-No problems with any of the brands though.
 
ThaNKS for the advice, but i doubt it. I falied to mention that i was cutting oak stumps with alot of Burl?? hey stumper, do u know how/which chemical i can use to clean the muffler screen on hUsky 41?
 
bighead

Slow down and explain what kind of bar you had on the saw. Solid, sprocket or roller tip? They each get tightened differently and yes over heating the bar and chain will cause the chain to stretch out. New chains will stretch but it takes a bit of running. How you run the saw is more likely the problem. Are you pushing it through the wood or letting the saw do the cutting? Short of hitting something the chain should not be dull and smoking in a half hour. Is it oiling, did you check? By your post I take it you don't do maintainance, filing the chain shouldn't take more than a few miniutes and pulling the bar to see if the rails are plugged with sawdust a miniute or two. Was the chain tensioner in the slot or was it out of place? Were the nuts tight?
 
geofore, i'm sorry i don't remember what type of bar it had, other than a Carleton 20". it was a rental and i didn't pay much attention. i was letting the saw do the cutting. at first it was fine, then after a while the chain got dull, so i had to do a little pushing. I was cuttting oak stumps, they were enormous with lots of burl. i was cutting them from the top down (they were vertical) Would that matter? I'm pretty sure it was oiling, i had to refill the reservoir with bar/chain oil after i went through a tank of gas (and no it was not leaking oil) the nuts were tight, and when i loosened them i was able to tighten the chain with the flat head screw. No i did not pull the bar to check for wood chips, but i will in the future. Yes i did buy a file in order to sharpen the chain, but it was the wrong size (i'm a newb as u can obviously can tell)
 
rocky i appreciate ur input, but please tell me how u can formulate an opinion that it was operator error based upon what i have written?? and yes it was filled with oil and gas BEFORE i started cutting. i appreciate advice, but can u be a little more specific other than to paste my quote that i let the saw do the cutting and not "pushing it down on the wood??? i was not blaming the saw, i felt it was the chain, since u feel otherwise, can u explain to me how to properly operate a chainsaw?
 
Ahh... Mark, vertical cuts amount to a milling cut-standard chain is not designed to cut at that orientation to the grain. Even sharp chain tends to get hot and stretch when you are pushing a lot of vertical cuts. Burl of course equates to twisted grain which offers additional challenge, plus stumps are often dirty IN the wood. If you have the option, slabbing by cutting in from the side (bar parralell to the trunk) is much easier. That orientation will pull long strings of "chips" that tend to clog up under the clutch cover.Stop and pull the fluff out occasionally and it will be much easier cutting than coming down on a cross-section of trunk. The problen wasn't the brand of chain but the style and application.:)

You can clean the screen with carburator cleaner. Oven cleaner works very well also.
 
Stumper, thank u , thank u thank u. U seem to be very knowledgeable. that is what i was looking for, some logical and constructive feedback. i really appreciate the advice, i did not know this. I sure appreciate it when people take the extra 2 mins of time to explain what i am/was doing wrong, then just saying "Operator Error" and "it AINT a weedwhacker"
 
thin skin

RockyJSquire, you are testing the new guy with your strait forward, depth of the skin analysis of this chain problem as always? Good thing you're here because I can hardly stay on topic. I have one of those PP7900's and it runs without chain problems except for the brick I hit today, who would ever think someone put brick in the croutch of a tree? Knocked the chain clean off the bar.
 
Well geofore, until you learn how to properly use and maintain that PPed saw, you might as well run a Wildthing and leave that saw with me for safe keeping. :D

Russ
 
Bighead,

Just out of curiosity, what caused the burl in the stumps? Was there any evidence that the tree served as a fencepost at one time?
 
no there was not. the stumps were huge, about 2 feet at least in diameter. i'll try to post some pics of the pieces i managed to cut when the chain was sharp
 
Hi Bighead, Stumper has got you covered on this one. Also from your pics(on the other thread BTW) I see some bark inclusions. Those can dull your chain almost instantly, if not sooner ;)
 

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