ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
Now I know..
Echo 620p upgrades
- Thread starter btmonnat
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I just use the side of the stone on my bench grinder, they aren't fussy. You're probably not going to lean seize the saw with the stock settings as with some of the other Echo saws. The CS-620's I've worked on here were closer to being where they needed to be than most others. Even with that said in any and all cases results will vary due to many factors which include DA, type/octane rating of the fuel, how much oil you run in the mix, etc. It's simply standard procedure here to custom tune all my saws so they are getting PLENTY of fuel at full throttle and heavy engine load........
The carb adjustments are very limited with the caps in place on the 590-620's, remove them right away.
Interestingly, the 590 I purchased really needed no fiddling from the OEM settings after I removed the baffle under the deflector and opened up the inner baffle in the muff. It runs very well actually. Not sure about the 620, but on the 590 I added a pair of 'O' rings, a larger one over the intake snout and a small one over the fixing stud to insure the saw would not ingest fines when running and cutting. I also added the 'Stokel Stack' oiled foam air cleaner / velocity stack but I'm kind of on the fence with it as I don't really have experience any 'seat of the pants' difference between the stock flocked air cleaner and Nick's version. Just my observance.
Said before, the best upgrade power wise is removing the last metal baffle under the deflector (carefully as to not screw up the deflector itself, Dremel or die grinder and patience required), pull the limiter caps (in my case, factory settings were almost spot on) and put the 'O' rings on the intake snout and fixing stud ( not sure if that will apply to the 620 but it does on the 590 that I have). Like I said, on the fence with Nick's oiled foam air cleaner / velocity stack. I can take that or leave it, don't really seem to make any difference one way or another. I will say after the rather simple mods on my 590, which I did before I ever started it the first time, it sound 110% better than my buddy's does un modified. Not obnoxious, just sounds 'nice' like a saw should. My 590 pulls a full 20" bar with full tooth chipper ripping seasoned oak logs and never slows down at al. Pretty impressed with it, especially for the price.
I may at some point replace the 590 ignition module with a 620, simply because the 620 module allows the saw to rev higher and I may remove the flywheel and install the 0ffset flywheel key at some point, but for now, it's fine and for the price, hard to beat. I would like to replace the plastic side cover with a metal one with captive bar nuts, but no big issue and no hurry on that either.
The mods should make this post a sticky, especially for Echo saws, but it really applies to any limiter cap limited powerhead.
+2
Limiter caps were installed strictly to please the EPA not the end user.
I for one want two things from my power equipment. The best performance and long service life.
More times than not you will get neither without removing or modifying the limiter caps on the carburetor. With Echo it's hit and miss but I've had a LOT their equipment come thru the shop that was WAY too lean and if left within stock limits it wasn't going to make the grade anyplace........FWIW.....
Limiter caps were installed strictly to please the EPA not the end user.
I for one want two things from my power equipment. The best performance and long service life.
More times than not you will get neither without removing or modifying the limiter caps on the carburetor. With Echo it's hit and miss but I've had a LOT their equipment come thru the shop that was WAY too lean and if left within stock limits it wasn't going to make the grade anyplace........FWIW.....
All about clean air and making the technocrats happy but not making the end use happy at all. Seems today that everything we deal with that has an engine of some sort powering it has come under the thumb of 'them' and 'Them' really haven't a clue about real world operations. All book worms making judgements about stuff they don't ever have any hands on experience with, anyway.
I happen to work part time an a Kubota / Case / Echo dealership and if it's a warranty related issue, you better never fiddle with limiter caps or anything else if the saw or tractor or even combine is under warranty because the OEM will immediately deny it if the unit or saw was fiddled with at all. Far as Echo goes, their SOP on any claim on a saw purchased from a dealer is, you drain the fuel tank first to see what the owner has put in it and then go from there. Second is the limiter caps installed (with the tabs intact). Most of the saws that come in (99%) Echo bought there have bad fuel or been straight gassed and Echo will not warrant any of them, ever. Corporate policy, no exceptions. I will say that when a saw comes in for service (warranty or otherwise), when it leaves the shop, it leaves with a full fuel tank of 50-1 Red Armor canned fuel and the bar oil tank filled with Echo bar oil as well. How they (the shop) does it, always.
One thing I've always liked about Echo is, you can grease the roller noses on all of them and I'm a firm believer in externally greasing a roller nose bar for a lot of reasons. I own Stihl saws as well but I really like the Echo's not only for price but their inherent Japanese quality.
I happen to work part time an a Kubota / Case / Echo dealership and if it's a warranty related issue, you better never fiddle with limiter caps or anything else if the saw or tractor or even combine is under warranty because the OEM will immediately deny it if the unit or saw was fiddled with at all. Far as Echo goes, their SOP on any claim on a saw purchased from a dealer is, you drain the fuel tank first to see what the owner has put in it and then go from there. Second is the limiter caps installed (with the tabs intact). Most of the saws that come in (99%) Echo bought there have bad fuel or been straight gassed and Echo will not warrant any of them, ever. Corporate policy, no exceptions. I will say that when a saw comes in for service (warranty or otherwise), when it leaves the shop, it leaves with a full fuel tank of 50-1 Red Armor canned fuel and the bar oil tank filled with Echo bar oil as well. How they (the shop) does it, always.
One thing I've always liked about Echo is, you can grease the roller noses on all of them and I'm a firm believer in externally greasing a roller nose bar for a lot of reasons. I own Stihl saws as well but I really like the Echo's not only for price but their inherent Japanese quality.
Hard to justify replacing the clutch cover unless it's busted but it is a nice upgrade. I didn't think I cared about captive bar nuts but now I am a fan.
So what I just learned is, if your Echo saw is acting up, dump whatever is in the fuel tank out and put a little Red Armor in there before taking it to the dealer.
Nothing more frustrating that changing out a loop and dropping the bar nuts in the grass and then having to go look for them. Happened to me more than once and I agree, until the plastic side cover gets broken, I won't change it out but at least there is an alternative.
Kind of like the funky Stihl half turn fuel and oil tank caps I don't care for either. They either start leaking or I break off the latch. You can replace them with the 'old style' caps as well.
Kind of like the funky Stihl half turn fuel and oil tank caps I don't care for either. They either start leaking or I break off the latch. You can replace them with the 'old style' caps as well.
That works I guess, but most end users would never do that anyway. You have to keep in mind that 99% of retail saw buyers are occasional users at best and most of them lack the foresight in the first place.
What I see more than anything else at the dealership are straight gassed saws where the owner filled the saw with the fuel can for their lawnmower, that and using filthy motor oil as bar oil. Bar oil isn't a big thing but straight gassed saws are. Filthy motor oil is NOT good bar oil as it don't have the film thickness or tacky nature that bar oil has in the first place. I will admit that I don't use Echo bar oil and I shop for the least expensive bar oil anyway but it's still bar oil and not filthy motor oil. Filthy motor oil (and I get a lot of that with big farm tractors and vehicles) all gets burned in my waste oil furnace in the shop anyway. I never seem to have enough either....lol
All the CS-590's I've worked on have a limited coil on them. So do 600P's after a certain serial number. To date all the 620's that have went thru the shop had unlimited coils on them.
If the coil in limited then you may experience four-stroking even if the carb is set to lean......FWIW.....
If the coil in limited then you may experience four-stroking even if the carb is set to lean......FWIW.....
My next upgrade when and if I get time as my 590 is running and cutting just fine as it is. Of course I'll buy an OEM coil from the dealer I work part time at. I really don't want to get too crazy at this juncture as it's fine as is. What really 'woke mine up' was the elimination of the baffle under the deflector and slotting the inner baffle in the muf. The stock coil on the 590 is a limited rpm unit anyway. Like I said, I'm all good with it as it is presently and like I stated earlier on, I kept the spark screen intact as well. Mine emits a nice deep sound but not obnoxiously loud either. I had the Stokel stack and oiled foam air cleaner on but removed it and put the OEM flocked air cleaner back on with the addition of the 2 '0' rings, one on the intake snout and one on the fixing stud, that eliminates any ingestion of fines into the carb throat.
I've also read that replacing the 590 carb with a 620 also increases output but I'm content with it as it presently is. I believe the 620 carb has a slightly larger throat.
I'm content with it as it is and I have no issue with a full 20" full bar cut and it don't 'bog' down at all.
A good upgrade for the 620p is to a 400C..
Kinda how I see it. Dump the 620 and find a nice used 372.
Another good option. Or a 562xp mk2.
Not an option with me at all. I don't change saws like I change my undies, never have.
Yep, I knew it was coming.......the Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge truck thing........
Better go outside as quickly as you can and bury that POS Echo in the back yard and replace it with something worth a ****......
Better go outside as quickly as you can and bury that POS Echo in the back yard and replace it with something worth a ****......
EchovsStihl63
ArboristSite Operative
Yea, there seems to be some trouble at times grasping that there are actually solid options out there outside of what is considered the only 2 brands
