Echo CS-330T won't run. Timing off?

[RKSpeed]

Dad got this saw at an auction $5. Though I'd fix it up. Vacuumed base and the base gasket was leaking pretty bad. Repaired that, cleaned carb, new plug and washed everything surgical clean. Set coil gap (yes it has spark) new fuel line. Won't start not even a hint of firing. Checked compression, got a repeatable 120psi. Piston looks good intake and exhaust side. Took muffler apart everything was clean. Figured ok, must be timing issue. Check flywheel and keyway both look nice. Then looked at static timing and found magnet was way far away from coil pick up when piston at TDC (see picture, yellow dots indicate magnet side of flywheel) anyone have any idea if this is normal? It looks like they replaced coil but it does have spark

 

[Ketchup]

Soumds like your not getting fuel. It should pop even if the timing is off 10 degrees. Spark occurs before TDC.

 

[Ketchup]

Here's the part number: A409000241

I don't think the FW has the number on it, but you could pull it and look.

Visually it looks right.

 

[Sam R]

If you have spark that should certify your coil and timing are good, right? Modern solid state coils are not adjustable and so never go out of time. They either work perfectly or are broken. If the key isn't sheared I don't see how timing could be off.
I agree with above, fuel system issue. Does your plug get wet after several pulls? How's your impulse?

 

[RKSpeed]

Should have said in original post. When I took carb apart someone had installed gaskets on carb upside down. The gasket with "flaps" sorry I'm new to saw carbs was not installed against carb body and they don't lay flat against carb which I know they're supposed to. I dumped fuel into throat of carb after all these problems and still nothing so I figured that ruled carb out. I have a rebuild kit for carb on it's way.

 

[Sam R]

A couple things: How did you determine it has spark? And also just dumping fuel into the intake throat wouldn't necessarily make it fire, it's possible doing so would just saturate and flood everything also making it impossible to start. You need an aerosolized starting fluid spray - ideally the kind that has some kind of lubrication in it as straight ether can score your piston - a tiny little amount and see if it starts.

 

[RKSpeed]

I wrapped a 12 gauge stranded wire around spark plugs and and grounded it on muffler stud. Nice looking spark but who knows. Tried starting fluid first, still nothing. Agree I could have flooded it

 

[rupedoggy]

120 is marginal. pull the muffler and look at the piston. If OK and the ring is free it may be enough to try to start. Then pull the flywheel and see if the key is sheared. This will put the timing off. Mike

 

[RKSpeed]

If you look in my past post I pulled intake and manifold off and piston looked nice. Also I have looked at keyway and flywheel both like new. I think you'd agree it should at least start and idle on 120psi but maybe not. From my small amount research. 100 psi is minimum you want?

 

[rupedoggy]

OK mister know-it -all, why do you ask for help? The flywheel is not in the correct location for timing in your picture, if it is at TDC. Do you pull the flywheel or just look with it attached. Mike

 

[RKSpeed]

Must have come across wrong when I typed it out. I don't have an attitude, I appreciate all the help I was just saying I had already written it previously. Asking for help because I'm at a stopping point. I'm fine if you're fine sir

 

[RKSpeed]

In the picture the piston is at TDC and flywheel is keyed to crank . Took flywheel off and rotated it until it plunked down on keyway then turned it to TDC, took picture

 

[rupedoggy]

OK I'm good. I don't know the timing on your engine but 25 degrees BTC should be close. I think the first magnet should just be on the middle part of the ignition at that point. The gap for the flywheel should be .016. I have marked the flywheel before with marks and spun it with a drill motor hooked up a timing light and battery to check. The drill must turn counterclockwise. Mike

 

[mountainlake]

Could be the wrong flywheel, if the key is removable take it out put the piston TDC and the put the flywheel on with the magnets by the coil, tighten the nut tight but not so tight it breaks something and give it a try. You might have to try the 1 to 4 o'clock positions with the magnets. With the nut tight it will work without a flywheel key on a taper shaft. Make sure the shaft is clean, no oil. Steve

 

[mountainlake]

I'll take a look at my 330t s flywheel where the key is and the magnets are at TDC. Steve

 

[rupedoggy]

In looking at the flywheel again it looks like each fin on the flywheel is about 20 degrees (18 fins @ 20*=360*) so if the flywheel is sitting at TDC it may be 60 degrees out +=

 

[RKSpeed]

Here's a shot backside of flywheel I had taken previously, not a good pic I can take one later but does show keyway relationship. Figd someone might see it as wrong for saw. I had thought of taking keyway off but figd I'd try to find original problem first. Might still do it. Thank you all for help so far, this is great

 

[mountainlake]

On my 330t, maybe 360 should be the same with the piston a TDC the flywheel key is in about the 11 o'clock position. On your pic on your first post the fin just to the left of the first yellow dot above the starter pawl is right at the top edge of the top coil pickup. Set it close to that and give it a try. I stuck a screw driver in the plug hole to determine TDC. Steve

 

[mountainlake]

View attachment 676083 Here's a shot backside of flywheel I had taken previously, not a good pic I can take one later but does show keyway relationship. Figd someone might see it as wrong for saw. I had thought of taking keyway off but figd I'd try to find original problem first. Might still do it. Thank you all for help so far, this is great

Really looks like the wrong flywheel, on mine the key is at 11 o'clock and the center of the magnet is at 3 o'clock , you key at 11 o'clock the center of the magnet would be at 12 o'clock. Steve

 

[67L36Driver]

Echo danced around withe different flywheels and coils on the reed valve tophandle (3000 type and 3400 type). And the flywheel for one won’t make correct timing with the other.

Possibly the same deal between the orange and gray tophandle models took place.
[emoji848]