Echo CS 400 Chain brake.

[alleyyooper]

The chain brake likes to engage when I wear winter gloves when cutting. It also likes to engage whern cutting large rounds where the bar only sticks out a inch or a bit more when cutting.

Has any one else had the same problem and did you fix it or judt decide to live with it?

I was cutting up a huge blow down Ash today and it was driveing me nuts, when it ran out of fuel I got my tool kit out and removed the handle for the the time being.

It is the only saw I own other then the JRed 2159 that has a chain brake any way.

I will figure out a mod for it even if it is a groove in the handle where the brake tap rides. May be even narrow that tab a little bit too.


Al

 

[Wood Doctor]

As a test, try fastening a heavy rubber band between the chain brake handle and the outside handle. If that stops it, then there is something internal to the brake mechanism assembly that gave up and it's flopping forward unchecked.

 

[Cycledude]

Also CS400 owner but never had any chain brake issues

 

[ATpro]

Also CS400 owner but never had any chain brake issues

Same here!!!

 

[s sidewall]

I haven't had any problems with mine and it's about 10 years old.

Steve Sidwell

 

[mountainlake]

I've bent the handle backwards just a little on a couple of mine, is your chain dull applying to much pressure on the saw .. Broken av mounts would let the saw flex too much.. Steve

 

[alleyyooper]

I have never had a problem till I wear winter gloves then there isn't much clearance between the top bar and brake for me.

Al

 

[mountainlake]

Al If you have a metal handlebar take it off put it in a vice and bend it back just a little.. Steve

 

[svk]

I have never had a problem till I wear winter gloves then there isn't much clearance between the top bar and brake for me.

Al

Sounds like your gloves are the problem then. Do your cutting with thinner gloves.

 

[alleyyooper]

M. Lake I was wondering if you ment the Brake lever? I could under stane how one ould go about bending that.



I liked the one comment. if you don't like scavanger don't eat Shrimp & crab and stay away from wild hogs too.

I wear winter gloves because it is cold. If I wanted to wear fall goves my hands would freeze as the Echo doesn't heat the hand like the old Muffler on the Jred 2159 did.


Al

 

[svk]

I wear winter gloves because it is cold. If I wanted to wear fall goves my hands would freeze as the Echo doesn't heat the hand like the old Muffler on the Jred 2159 did.

Ok, well since you self diagnosed the problem and refuse to resolve the issue that is causing the problem, not sure what you are looking for from us......

 

[chipper1]

Run the jred, it's a better saw anyway!

 

[svk]

Run the jred, it's a better saw anyway!

Naw that would be too easy. We know Al likes to grumble a bit and there would be no reason to if he was running the 2159

 

[HarleyT]

Big hands are a good thing!!!

 

[chipper1]

Not when you're running little saws with gloves on.

 

[alleyyooper]

I would have ran the Jred for this job but it does not have the heater muffler any longer.
I also need to take it some place and remove the clutch. I haven't been able to get it off and see where the oil line for the bar is bad. or just a bad pump.

Mountian Lake solved the problem for me I think.
Plus the Echo CS is one hell of a running saw for it's size and sips fuel.

Al

 

[chipper1]

What's a heater muffler.
Use a piece of rope in the cylinder as a piston stop, then tap on the clutch with a screwdriver and a hammer. I like to fold the rope in half and then feed the folded end into the spark pug hole, that way when you are done and pull it out you know 100% you are getting all the rope out of the cylinder.
Then you can clean all the oil lines off real well and use a drop of super glue on the ends to keep them from leaking.

Which problem did mountain lake solve, the brake being set when running it?
If the chain on the 2159 is sharpened well it won't drink too much fuel in comparison to the amount of wood cut, if its much lighter I understand that though.

 

[alleyyooper]

The Jred I own came with a cat muffler, had to wear a ove glove to run the saw any times the temps got above zero F. I have a picture on photo bucket of the melted cover over the muffler.
The Jred will use twice the amout of fuel to cut the same wood the Echo will.

I tried the rope and know to run the piston to the TDC and back it off a tiny bit install rope and it won't get hung in the ports. It takes a 3 finger tool to remove the clutch and I suppose you could pound on it with a hammer and screw driver but take a chance of damageing the clutch.
I just do not have an impact I can run now to break it loose, remember right for off and left to tighten as it is a left hand thread. I am suppecting the line from the tank to the pump has a hole in it.


Yes the brake stopping the chain when cutting with it.

Just take the carry top handle and bend it in a vice for more clearance.
so simple but ihad not thought of doing that.

Al

 

[chipper1]

Something must be wrong with the fuel system if it takes twice as much or the tank on the echo is much larger than the tank on the jred giving the illusion of the jred using twice as much. The 199 carbs are known for having fuel issues, I've owned many 359's as well as 2159's and they haven't had a problem getting real hot when tuned properly and running a sharp chain, yes that's with a cat muffler. I also wouldn't be surprised if the echo is set way lean as that is quite normal on many of the echos.

Yep, that works, just removed one Tuesday from a 357 without using the rope(I usually don't, but it sounded as though yours was extra tight), normally it takes a few hits and then it's off and many times it will spin so fast it comes all the way off the crank..
No need to think about right or left threads if you look at the clutch there are marks right on it that say which direction and they are made with a little place to put a screwdriver/scwrench to remove it, it also shows removing it that way in the manual. If you've had it off before and used the "3 finger tool" to tighten it, most likely you've over tightened it or whoever did it for you did.
It doesn't sound as if you maintain your own saws, removing the clutch is part of normal maintenance to lube the clutch bearing as well as replace the rim sprocket. I would suggest having a new rim sprocket on hand so when someone removes it for you you can put a new one on and also grease the bearing.
What is the 2159 doing, if you've had it a while it's probably also time to replace the fuel hose and the impulse line. They seem to have carb problems before they have fuel line problems, and with everything you've described and I were you, I'd have someone put a kit in the carb. If you want a video of the "fix" for that specific carb let me know.

Hopefully you can get the handle bent a little on the echo, although most guys try to avoid bending the handles on their saws lol.

Brett

 

[alleyyooper]

When I bought my Echo it was at the only decent chain saw dealer in the area. It was ran carb adjusted for this area as he does all the Echos he sells.

Got the handle bar bent yesterday but didn't have any time to reinstall the chain brake handle to see if I gained much.

Al