Echo CS-590 MM

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Hey guys, so I recieved the Stihl bar adapter for my CS 590 and went to my local dealer. Picked up a 25" Rollomatic bar, 3/8 pitch, 0.50 gauge. The only chain I can purchase there is the full chisel RS3 or the full skip RMF. I cut mesquite,oak and juniper for fire wood. I'm wanting to stay with a semi chisel to avoid having to sharpen more often. What do you guys suggest?
 
Hey guys, so I recieved the Stihl bar adapter for my CS 590 and went to my local dealer. Picked up a 25" Rollomatic bar, 3/8 pitch, 0.50 gauge.

Getting a bit off topic from the MM here, but as a CS 590 owner who is wondering about a bigger bar, I'm curious why you went with the Stihl adapter since you didn't already own the bar. I hadn't considered that. Was planning on the Oregon 24" Power Match. I'm also wondering how well this will work with a 60cc saw, and whether I'd be better off with skip chain. I don't mind filing full comp, but don't want to feel like the saw is overmatched. The 20" oem setup feels just right, but I can't help but want to try something bigger.
 
I was also going the route with a "24" powermatch, but was advised from a few people to pay the 12 bucks for the adapter and go with a Stihl bar. It fits very good. So after discussing specs with the dealer they seemed to think the 60CC saw with a MM should pull the chain well. Still up in the air to run skip chain or not...? Would like to get some semi chisel since I cut in dirty conditions.
 
Not looking to stir up a debate here, but what would the advantage of a Stihl bar over an Oregon Power Match be?
 
Not looking to stir up a debate here, but what would the advantage of a Stihl bar over an Oregon Power Match be?
I think what they are talking about is the bar mount. Oregon makes bars with a stihl mount as well. It is just more popular and easier to get different bars from basically every manufacturer.
 
Hey guys been thinking about my set up. Anyone here have experience pulling a 25" chain on the Echo CS 590 or should I stick to the 20"? Want to get a little more input before I'm unable to return and exchange purchase. Worried that's it's going to be under powered for the bar size.
 
I bought a 590 for a friend of mine, he wanted a 24" B&C for it so I set it up with a skip chain and with opening up the muffler it pulls it just fine for a 60cc saw (pretty impressed actually).
Granted he cuts mostly pine and fir with it.
 
I bought a 590 for a friend of mine, he wanted a 24" B&C for it so I set it up with a skip chain and with opening up the muffler it pulls it just fine for a 60cc saw (pretty impressed actually).
Granted he cuts mostly pine and fir with it.
 
Hi. I've seen the videos and explanations for where to drill and cut and such but no one ever mentions how to remove the muffler in the first place. On the front you remove the small piece of steel to uncover the two screws. After taking those screws out what do you do? I took mine out and the muffler is still for my attached. Thanks
 
You will need a T27 driver.
There are 4 screws holding the muffler on. 2 that goes through the muffler holding it to the cylinder and 2 on the bottom corners attaching the muffler to the crankcase.
 
Hi. I've seen the videos and explanations for where to drill and cut and such but no one ever mentions how to remove the muffler in the first place. On the front you remove the small piece of steel to uncover the two screws. After taking those screws out what do you do? I took mine out and the muffler is still for my attached. Thanks
Yes remove that smallnplate then the two bolts in the muffler then two on each side... Make sure you note where the bolts came from and the gasket/head shield order. Let us how it turns out.
 
OK. Those bottom two bolts don't feel like they should come out so I stopped. I can turn them but feels like they'll break if I keep going if that makes sense. It's not a tight like it's rusted feel. Just that it'll break
 
OK. Those bottom two bolts don't feel like they should come out so I stopped. I can turn them but feels like they'll break if I keep going if that makes sense. It's not a tight like it's rusted feel. Just that it'll break

I believe that's due to threadlocker used during assembly. I remember mine being uncomfortably tight, too, but I didn't have any problems, and also didn't feel a need to apply more threadlock upon reassembly--the oem stuff stayed put for me.
 
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