Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?

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So the fuel connection is just there--not being used? The supply line is on the engine side of the carb(already worrying about reconnecting), then there is a second hose connection on the outside. Is that the one that is not connected to anything?
View attachment 477773
That is a diaphragm vent so the fuel pump can pulse don't plug it
 
Thanks for quick anwsers on "what I thought was a missing gas line". Worked on a lot of equipment and have not seen this before--probably all the "no primer, 2 hose barbs" are like this--they just run a hose back to the tank "just because "!!
 
Thanks for quick anwsers on "what I thought was a missing gas line". Worked on a lot of equipment and have not seen this before--probably all the "no primer, 2 hose barbs" are like this--they just run a hose back to the tank "just because "!!
Well stihl also has a similar set up where the fuel metering diaphragm is routed into the air cleaner and the impulse line comes from the crank case
 
Did ur saw come with a bar if so what size? Do not buy the cheep menards oregon chains for that saw they stretch fast and will groove out ur clutch. Good choice of chain I found works good is stihl full chiz low pro and the carlton semi chiz non safety chain the full chiz will leave a smoother finish cut for trim jobs
 
Thanks for quick anwsers on "what I thought was a missing gas line". Worked on a lot of equipment and have not seen this before--probably all the "no primer, 2 hose barbs" are like this--they just run a hose back to the tank "just because "!!
the reason primer bulbs need a fuel return line is because they suck fuel thru the fuel pump to purge the air out. the mixture of fuel and bubbles has to go somewhere.
 
the reason primer bulbs need a fuel return line is because they suck fuel thru the fuel pump to purge the air out. the mixture of fuel and bubbles has to go somewhere.
Funny thing is about primer bulb saws is that they have a lot of fuel line to fill up. Echo has a long line to fill to but starts so easy without a purge bulb. A good running saw don't need a purge bulb
 
Did ur saw come with a bar if so what size? Do not buy the cheep menards oregon chains for that saw they stretch fast and will groove out ur clutch. Good choice of chain I found works good is stihl full chiz low pro and the carlton semi chiz non safety chain the full chiz will leave a smoother finish cut for trim jobs
It came with a 14" OE bar, no chain. I have several chains, but after saw is up and running (and I decide to keep it --already think answer is yes), I will look for one (or both) chains mentioned above! First, I will need to decide on 12" or 14"!
 
Funny thing is about primer bulb saws is that they have a lot of fuel line to fill up. Echo has a long line to fill to but starts so easy without a purge bulb. A good running saw don't need a purge bulb
I maintain 2-stroke equipment for a couple of commercial lawn guys. One of the guys never uses the primer bulb. I've always used them if they were there--just because! My old Pro Mac 10-10's don't have them, but the carb sits next to gas tank!

I have changed many primer bulbs!
 
It came with a 14" OE bar, no chain. I have several chains, but after saw is up and running (and I decide to keep it --already think answer is yes), I will look for one (or both) chains mentioned above! First, I will need to decide on 12" or 14"!
Youl keep it after its broke inn they will cut through lots of wood with ease after broke inn
 
It came with a 14" OE bar, no chain. I have several chains, but after saw is up and running (and I decide to keep it --already think answer is yes), I will look for one (or both) chains mentioned above! First, I will need to decide on 12" or 14"!

a good place to get chain is:

http://www.baileysonline.com/

they are a site sponsor. They carry both oregon and carlton. they stock 12" bars too. this saw needs the non-low-kickback, professional chain to cut well. if you buy chain at a local big box, you'll be disappointed with the performance.
 
a good place to get chain is:

http://www.baileysonline.com/

they are a site sponsor. They carry both oregon and carlton. they stock 12" bars too. this saw needs the non-low-kickback, professional chain to cut well. if you buy chain at a local big box, you'll be disappointed with the performance.
True low kick back chatters bad in a cut. Especially on hardwoods
 
True low kick back chatters bad in a cut. Especially on hardwoods
Am I going to need a tach to properly set the carb? Have always done this by ear--but maybe never had anything that turns up this fast and has rpm limiter. My normal procedure is to set low for smooth idle and good acceleration, then high, turn clockwise until starts slowing, then open up until it starts slowing--then back lean until it just smoothes out!
 
Am I going to need a tach to properly set the carb? Have always done this by ear--but maybe never had anything that turns up this fast and has rpm limiter. My normal procedure is to set low for smooth idle and good acceleration, then high, turn clockwise until starts slowing, then open up until it starts slowing--then back lean until it just smoothes out!
No. The Rev limit coil won't allow for a tack tune just tune it to cut the best and not lag when you Crack the throttle open
 
I always Starr with the high screw till runs good in a cut then work low and idle.
Small adjustments can go a long ways. Make a vid of first start and cut vids. We all like those
 
By top performer, I meant Echo's CS355T, Stihl 200T/ nodded 201, Husqvarna 540xp and similar. The 360 is one of the slowest cutting top handle saws around its size I've ever used.

I never said it was a bad saw, and the CS3400 I have from 1995 still starts up and runs fine, that's been pretty reliable. But spending 140$ on a saw that cost 250 new and can be had in running condition for 75$ doesn't seem like a wise move to me. Maybe the market is different on the other coast
The 360t you used must have never had tuning caps off. And cat removed. I love My 360t starts easy lots of grunt and it will run good at all rpm ranges not just piss rev or nothing like the 201t
 
Short block is ordered, pulled the bad engine out today--already have at least a couple hours in the 330, guessing another couple hours to get it all back together. It I were paying shop rates, this would end up an expensive saw so I can see why equipment is tossed rather than repaired (not my first time to think about this)! This probably guarantees me keeping the saw--not going to put this time in, then give it away (this is the reason I have a collection of saws and string trimmers)!

Hopefully I'm attaching a picture of the piston, haven't been able to get a good pic of cylinder yet. Cylinder not scored as bad as I thought!image.jpg
 
Short block is ordered, pulled the bad engine out today--already have at least a couple hours in the 330, guessing another couple hours to get it all back together. It I were paying shop rates, this would end up an expensive saw so I can see why equipment is tossed rather than repaired (not my first time to think about this)! This probably guarantees me keeping the saw--not going to put this time in, then give it away (this is the reason I have a collection of saws and string trimmers)!

Hopefully I'm attaching a picture of the piston, haven't been able to get a good pic of cylinder yet. Cylinder not scored as bad as I thought!View attachment 478166
Yeah that's a stock tune echo tooo hot.. they had many return saws cause of epa standards leaning them out
 
Remember, this saw came to me with straight gas in the tank! However, your comment almost insures that I will be taking limiter caps off my new 271t--don't know why I should be worry about warranty anyway--never have taken a 2-stroke anything back in for warranty work. My experience has been if they run good out of box, treat them with a diet of good fuel mix and proper maintenance--they're good to go!
 
Yeah I do all my own wrenching and I can't stand a foul running saw. Caps and cat went before I fired it up glad I did guys at the shop says it takes a bit to warm up. That in my ears means too lean but will run
 

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