Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?

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The replacement boot and handle came in today, and I happened to get off a little early. I tore the gray saw(first gen) apart and tried a pressure test. That didn't go so well, as it wouldn't pressurize at all. I figured out the reason as soon as I started to take the handle off. The boot was ripped at the handle almost 3/4 of the way around. :eek: To make a long story short, I found out why the IPL doesn't list the boot separately.

Here is the original handle. There is a ridge around the hole. I guess they figure that would make it seal better. The flange of the boot had a relief to match.
20160128_173942_zpsldeskvob.jpg


And here's the new one. No ridge around the hole. Sorry it's blurry, I would have taken a better one had I thought to check the quality and not assumed it was ok.
20160128_173936_zpsgo7ktc9y.jpg


This gray saw seems to be cured now, but I didn't have time to do a good pressure test on it. I'm going to have to submerge it to find where it was losing pressure. I suspect it was at the exhaust port. Crank seals, impulse line, and boot didn't show any bubbles.

Now I gotta get back to the orange one. Hopefully I can just buy the boot for it.
 
The replacement boot and handle came in today, and I happened to get off a little early. I tore the gray saw(first gen) apart and tried a pressure test. That didn't go so well, as it wouldn't pressurize at all. I figured out the reason as soon as I started to take the handle off. The boot was ripped at the handle almost 3/4 of the way around. :eek: To make a long story short, I found out why the IPL doesn't list the boot separately.
..images cut...

This gray saw seems to be cured now, but I didn't have time to do a good pressure test on it. I'm going to have to submerge it to find where it was losing pressure. I suspect it was at the exhaust port. Crank seals, impulse line, and boot didn't show any bubbles.

Now I gotta get back to the orange one. Hopefully I can just buy the boot for it.

good work. thanks for sharing this with us. that boot probably takes a lot of abuse, the hyper kinetic engine on one end and the isolated handle on the other. have you checked the anti vibe mounts?
 
The replacement boot and handle came in today, and I happened to get off a little early. I tore the gray saw(first gen) apart and tried a pressure test. That didn't go so well, as it wouldn't pressurize at all. I figured out the reason as soon as I started to take the handle off. The boot was ripped at the handle almost 3/4 of the way around. :eek: To make a long story short, I found out why the IPL doesn't list the boot separately.

Here is the original handle. There is a ridge around the hole. I guess they figure that would make it seal better. The flange of the boot had a relief to match.
20160128_173942_zpsldeskvob.jpg


And here's the new one. No ridge around the hole. Sorry it's blurry, I would have taken a better one had I thought to check the quality and not assumed it was ok.
20160128_173936_zpsgo7ktc9y.jpg


This gray saw seems to be cured now, but I didn't have time to do a good pressure test on it. I'm going to have to submerge it to find where it was losing pressure. I suspect it was at the exhaust port. Crank seals, impulse line, and boot didn't show any bubbles.

Now I gotta get back to the orange one. Hopefully I can just buy the boot for it.
Well with a dremel and a burr the old handle can be revised by taking the lip off. Good to know
 
I would think age, ethanol, and pressure against that lip and boot could make for some problems glad they resolved it on the newer saws. I still want a old stock carb for a parts carb to drop parts into the husky 136 carb and bolt it on the echo. Money is a issue this time of year
 
All of the AV mounts on it are good. You'll have to remove them from the old handle to put them in the new one....that's how I know they're good, LOL. The A202000051 part number is only for the boot. Echo P021009003 (replaces A202000050), part #29 on the first gen IPL, is the boot and the handle. Any of the IPL's that show the boot as #13 are boot only. If you click "more details" under that part over on the parts site I ordered from, it will show you a pic of the boot alone. Clicking "more details" under the P021009003, part 29, will show you a picture of the boot and the handle.

Edit: forgot to mention that the new handle doesn't come with labels on it. You'll have to buy them separately if they matter to you.
 
The replacement boot and handle came in today, and I happened to get off a little early. I tore the gray saw(first gen) apart and tried a pressure test. That didn't go so well, as it wouldn't pressurize at all. I figured out the reason as soon as I started to take the handle off. The boot was ripped at the handle almost 3/4 of the way around. :eek: To make a long story short, I found out why the IPL doesn't list the boot separately.

Here is the original handle. There is a ridge around the hole. I guess they figure that would make it seal better. The flange of the boot had a relief to match.
20160128_173942_zpsldeskvob.jpg


And here's the new one. No ridge around the hole. Sorry it's blurry, I would have taken a better one had I thought to check the quality and not assumed it was ok.
20160128_173936_zpsgo7ktc9y.jpg


This gray saw seems to be cured now, but I didn't have time to do a good pressure test on it. I'm going to have to submerge it to find where it was losing pressure. I suspect it was at the exhaust port. Crank seals, impulse line, and boot didn't show any bubbles.

Now I gotta get back to the orange one. Hopefully I can just buy the boot for it.
From the looks of the new grip it does look like they had just trimmed the lip off. I don't look like a smooth cast or mold
 
It's not 100% smooth, but that's from a defect in the mold and not a result of them trimming the ridge off. It looks like something was misaligned or didn't fill in properly.
 
It's not 100% smooth, but that's from a defect in the mold and not a result of them trimming the ridge off. It looks like something was misaligned or didn't fill in properly.
Maybe to cut cost they jb welded the crevasses on the mold. And called it a new part. Don't blame them if that's what really happened. Simple molds are expensive more technical molds cost much more
 
I know what molds cost.....first machining job was in a toolroom. Company did stamping and die casting. Most likely they remachined the existing cavities to remove the ridge. Ten minute job on a mill. It would take a it longer to do via EDM, but wouldn't require any secondary ops unlike milling.
 
Back from Texas after 10 days--you probably could guess that the first place I head this a.m. is the tool shed to get my hands on the cs330--started on the 5th pull in mid 20's temp. Poor little new cs271t--just gets totally ignored! It's quite obvious that I need to have some repair effort in a saw or trimmer for it to be high up on my "favorites" list! Gotta go find some wood to cut!!
 
Back from Texas after 10 days--you probably could guess that the first place I head this a.m. is the tool shed to get my hands on the cs330--started on the 5th pull in mid 20's temp. Poor little new cs271t--just gets totally ignored! It's quite obvious that I need to have some repair effort in a saw or trimmer for it to be high up on my "favorites" list! Gotta go find some wood to cut!!

Thanks for the account. Your finding the weakness of the intake boot provided some valuable information. However, I think you could have found the root cause without all the fuss of a pressure check, by a simple inspection of the plastic boot. On the other hand, now you have some great little custom pressure test adapters for your roll-away. Have fun with the new saw. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the account. Your finding the weakness of the intake boot provided some valuable information. However, I think you could have found the root cause without all the fuss of a pressure check, by a simple inspection of the plastic boot. On the other hand, now you have some great little custom pressure test adapters for your roll-away. Have fun with the new saw. Thanks again.
Heyduke, you have me confused with machinisttx--my 330 project was the one that reqired a new shortblock due to being straight gassed, resulting in a scored cylinder. To be honest, I've yet to pressure test a small engine--sorta hope that's not in my future!!

Anyway, I appreciate your's and Bikemike's contributions to the thread and to the forum. In my research of the 330 to decide to rebuild, I read a lot of posts by you 2 guys. Look forward to using your carb tuning tips to get my 330 set properly!
 
Heyduke, you have me confused with machinisttx--my 330 project was the one that reqired a new shortblock due to being straight gassed, resulting in a scored cylinder. To be honest, I've yet to pressure test a small engine--sorta hope that's not in my future!!

Anyway, I appreciate your's and Bikemike's contributions to the thread and to the forum. In my research of the 330 to decide to rebuild, I read a lot of posts by you 2 guys. Look forward to using your carb tuning tips to get my 330 set properly!

don't confuse me with the facts. my mind's made up. i mean, sorry about that. this has been a really good thread with a lot of useful information and a minimum of nonsense. i remember now. you are the original poster and this is page 11 so i guess i won't feel too ashamed of my lapse. good luck.
 
Finally got to put the 330t into some wood today--new chain, 14" bar. Cottonwood--8", hackberry--6": couldn't be happier with a saw! Almost surprised me what it could do, and this is with a new engine!!

Again, many thanks to those who said it was worth the new short block--I love it!!
 
Muffler mod and intake will be done before new short block gets here! A big thanks to those who discovered the intake problem--and posted it on AS!! Certainly would not have thought to look at that!!
...What is this intake mod you speak of? I got my 330t with my cylinder all cleaned up and a fresh piston going in soon!
 
If you’ll do a search, you might find a better explanation than I can give. The intake is not open to the full size of the opening on carb—it has a build up of plastic inside the intake. I used a dremel and grinding stone and opened it up. Had not run my CL locked up purchase/new short block CS330T before doing this so I have no real life comparison, but it makes since to give it as much opening so intake has no restrictions. LOVE my 330T!!!
 
thanks GlynnC.....i did open up that intake elbow more........Question is, i ordered a new piston, but i cant figure out what way the thrust washers face on the piston pin? one side has almost a serrated edge to it and the other side is flat
 
thanks GlynnC.....i did open up that intake elbow more........Question is, i ordered a new piston, but i cant figure out what way the thrust washers face on the piston pin? one side has almost a serrated edge to it and the other side is flat
Sorry, can’t help you with that question—I installed a complete new shortblock.
 

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