Economy chain grinders

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Originally posted by high life man
django,

A couple of years ago, I purchased a Tecomec FL 136 grinder. It ran me about $275.00. It is not reversible, but can accomodate any modern chain, and can grind rakers too.

While I agree that handfiling is the way to go, there are times that a chain is so severely damaged that only a machine will do.

The unit has paid for itself many times over already. You see, neighbors and friends will soon learn that you posess such a tool. You don't charge anything. Then, when you need an extra pair of strong hands, you have them.

If you really feel generous, you can fire up the air compressor and clean out their saw too.

An ex tree business colleague also drops his chains off to me. Him I charge $3.00 a pop. He picks them up off my doorknob the next morning. Overnight service for $3.00, sometimes even while-you-wait. Can't get that at the hardware store or saw shop. I can usually pay my truck insurance bill with what that little grinder makes me.

Get a grinder. There's alot worse you can do with your money.

Not true, I work at the hardware store/saw shop, I sharpen chains in the morning and in the afternoon/evening. If i am slow I will do them while they wait.
 
JimL,

Not true for you, but usually the case around here. Typically 2-day turn around.

I've also had store-sharpened chains come back with burned cutters, incorrect angles, etc. As with anything, some shops/stores are better than others.
 
Brian's right

Of course he didn't need me to tell him that;) Thanks for pointing out my oversight Brian. I certainly didn't mean to lump Dennis' fair minded moderating in with some of the other stuff. That comment was mostly meant tongue in cheek anyways, just being a wise a$$.

On topic, the less expensive grinders(say $250 range), are they suitable for rip chain (0 to 10 degree grind), or are the $500 models more suitable for that purpose?
 
Hey Newfie, I can`t see why the even cheaper grinders, about $140, wouldn`t be sufficient for rip chain. Russ
 
I think Russ is right about the cheap grinders. As long as it has good bushings and you can set a variable top and side plate angle, why wouldnt it work? The stone is 95% of the battle. Modify and dress the wheel often with the hardest carborundum stone you can find. Your local tool and die maker will fix you up with one. Grinding, as in hand filing is a very gentle and deliberate affair. The best tools dont always create the best job, its the operator that creates the results.
You can always take off more, but you cant add it back on, so easy does it. Its best to develope your own style as in everything else you do after you take in what appeals to your own intelligence. Just keep trying and the results will show.
Not wishing to sound like I have all the answers, cause I dont, but man o man, do my saws puke out the sawdust.
Tyrone Shoelaces
 

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