Electric Saw Chain Sharpening Options

[smaxwell]

What's the best electric saw chain sharpening system for a serious home woodcutter and chainsaw lumbermaker? For years I've been using a file and guide successfully, but I'm looking for something faster.

The Oregon electric systems look good. Are they? Does anyone have something else to recommend?

Thanks and bye for now,

Steve

 

[ms290]

the oragon (forgot how to spell it) chain sharpener works well but you will never get the edge you get with a hand file.

 

[olyman]

the oragon (forgot how to spell it) chain sharpener works well but you will never get the edge you get with a hand file.

mmmm,okay---

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

What's the best electric saw chain sharpening system for a serious home woodcutter and chainsaw lumbermaker? For years I've been using a file and guide successfully, but I'm looking for something faster.

The Oregon electric systems look good. Are they? Does anyone have something else to recommend?

Thanks and bye for now,

Steve

Are you square grinding? If so, Silvey (very high quality brand) is about the only one I know of.
I've used a few different brands, sizes and styles of round grinders and they all work well, except the little dremel grinders which take too long to remove metal and the bits don't last long.
Otherwise if you know how to file, the grinders all work. I even used a homeowner's little Chinese made grinder with a 4" wheel. It had a bunch of slop, but because I knew what to look for, I was able to flex the power head as I was grinding to get exactly the angles I wanted. It was almost like having a powered file, LOL!
What's your budget?

 

[madhatte]

It had a bunch of slop, but because I knew what to look for, I was able to flex the power head as I was grinding to get exactly the angles I wanted. It was almost like having a powered file

Yes! I do that too! Also, I sometimes use a carbide burr on a Dremel to grind the rakers down to the raker gauge. It's not for everyday use, but it saves file life on badly-damaged chains that need a lot of work.

 

[Philbert]

Get a good one. Avoid the knock-offs.

Oregon - 511a, or 511ax
Bailey's - Speed Sharp Star
Tecomec - Jolly or Jolly Star

You can get a pretty good edge with a grinder if you take your time. You can always touch up or finish an edge with a file if you think that gives you a better final edge.

Philbert

 

[Rickochet]

What's the best electric saw chain sharpening system for a serious home woodcutter and chainsaw lumbermaker? For years I've been using a file and guide successfully, but I'm looking for something faster.

The Oregon electric systems look good. Are they? Does anyone have something else to recommend?

Thanks and bye for now,

Steve

I have a Northern Tool "knockoff" and it does a great job. For $100 you can't beat it. It is a spittin' image of the Oregon 511 at about one third the cost. There's tons of links on making it even better!

For lots of reading:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995

 

[loadthestove]

I purchased this one on E-bay and for my use it works great.All I cut is wood for my personal use {around 10 cords yr).I only paid $29.95 for it .The mounting base is aluminum instead of plastic so that was a bonus .I have it mounted on a work bench in my garage.

 

[Diesel Pro]

If a guy were to use one of these would it get the teeth all to the same length? In other words does it reference teh drive link or something to hold the chain advancement to a repeatable point?

 

[logdog]

Chain Grinder

I like my Oregon 511. One thing I did which is probably a no-no, put a reversing switch so I can grind into the cutting edge all the time. I get zero burrs this way and the chain stays sharp longer.

 

[Philbert]

I like my Oregon 511. One thing I did which is probably a no-no, put a reversing switch so I can grind into the cutting edge all the time. I get zero burrs this way and the chain stays sharp longer.

If you are using it in a workplace covered by OSHA, it is a no-no that could get you fined big $$$.

If it is for your own personal use there are a couple of key hazards that you must make sure you address when running the grinder in reverse:

1) the sparks/dust will fly toward you, so you must consider a larger area of cleanup and where flammable/combustible materials could be of concern. (I'm curious - do the sparks/grit hit your clothes?)

2) an exploding grinding wheel (not common, but happens periodically) will be directed toward you, instead of being contained somewhat in the housing. This means that heavier protective clothing, especially a full face shield are needed.

Philbert

 

[logdog]

This is my personal grinder. I've used a Silvey 510 that reverses and would own one now if I could justify the cost.
It was a challenge to see if I could do it to this 511 and it worked. I've added a setscrew that keeps the wheel from coming loose. I've never stood in front of a high speed grinding wheel, don't know why anyone would. All I can say is, it works great.

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

While a grinder does make for a faster job, it seems kinda silly with a light use electric.
I think we often overlook the simpler tools and how efficiant they are.
I sharpen my 32inch 100cc with a file, its really not that hard to learn and it really don't take long.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

I have a Northern Tool "knockoff" and it does a great job. For $100 you can't beat it. It is a spittin' image of the Oregon 511 at about one third the cost. There's tons of links on making it even better!

For lots of reading:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995

And that's why I got the 511 AX....it's the best out of the box, very well made, no mods needed.

 

[buzz sawyer]

And that's why I got the 511 AX....it's the best out of the box, very well made, no mods needed.

Mikey - you mean you gave up on files already? After all the training I gave you???

 

[dh1984]

well i got a buddy that got one of them harbor freight grinders. and he says it works great on his saw and it does like it did when it was factory made.his chain that is but the one trick he found out it take. and clean his wheel afther every use and it grins better every time he cleans it off awnd get all that crud off of it.and he said it seems to do a lot better and stays balanced.i findly let his sharpen one of my chains with his grinder before i got mine and it tends to stay sharp untill it hit a knot or something in the wood. but he took and done every thing that everybody can do on the other grinders. but i like mine better and i keep mine cleaner the he does lol. so it's up to you on which one you get:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[logdog]

And that's why I got the 511 AX....it's the best out of the box, very well made, no mods needed.

I had a Northern about a month and the motor burnt up. I got the 511 used for $100 bucks and love it. Call it lazy or call it spoiled but I really like high quality tools, even good used tool.
The other thing I like about my 2-way motor, the wheel doesn't load up any more and runs cooler.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Mikey - you mean you gave up on files already? After all the training I gave you???

No...I went in on a "partnership" with a friend...got a wood splitter in trade...
I'm doing much better with the hand filing since I got the Save-Edge files...

BTW...I was looking thru an old Progressive Farmer magazine the other day, saw an ad for a Homelite Buz saw....I'll send you the ad if you want it.

 

[buzz sawyer]

No...I went in on a "partnership" with a friend...got a wood splitter in trade...
I'm doing much better with the hand filing since I got the Save-Edge files...

BTW...I was looking thru an old Progressive Farmer magazine the other day, saw an ad for a Homelite Buz saw....I'll send you the ad if you want it.

Cool! Love to see the ad. I'll PM my address.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

I touched up a virtually brand new RSC chain on the 460 before cutting on Saturday...chain was not rocked, but used it to rip some 24" pieces of oak in half so I wouldn't herniate myself loading it on to the splitter...cuts ok, big chips, but chain was chattering a bit,not as smooth as it was when it came out of the box (one of the sharpest, smoothest chains I've ever seen out of the box), didn't want to "grab", did not take the rakers down ...what did I do wrong? Maybe cuz I was cutting elm?
:jawdrop: