Electric Saw Chain Sharpening Options

[mtngun]

I touched up a virtually brand new RSC chain on the 460 before cutting on Saturday....cuts ok, big chips, but chain was chattering a bit,not as smooth as it was when it came out of the box (one of the sharpest, smoothest chains I've ever seen out of the box), didn't want to "grab", did not take the rakers down ...what did I do wrong? Maybe cuz I was cutting elm?

If possible, a few close-up pics of the chain would be helpful.

A chain that chatters and feels rough is usually a sign of aggressive rakers.

A chain that doesn't want to grab is usually a sign that the rakers aren't aggressive enough.

Confusing.....

If, as you say, the chain is nearly new, the rakers should be fine. So maybe it was just the elm.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I touched up a virtually brand new RSC chain on the 460 before cutting on Saturday...chain was not rocked, but used it to rip some 24" pieces of oak in half so I wouldn't herniate myself loading it on to the splitter...cuts ok, big chips, but chain was chattering a bit,not as smooth as it was when it came out of the box (one of the sharpest, smoothest chains I've ever seen out of the box), didn't want to "grab", did not take the rakers down ...what did I do wrong? Maybe cuz I was cutting elm?
:jawdrop:

If the elm was green, could be the reason. Either that or you're just used to the smooth power of the RA.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

If the elm was green, could be the reason. Either that or you're just used to the smooth power of the RA.

Yah, the elm is not green, but was soaked and partially frozen too. Seems like the Save Edge files leave a bit of a rough edge on the surface of the cutter, next time I'm going to try to make a "lighter" last pass to get the edge smoother. Wish my digital cameras could do good close-ups.

 

[BobL]

It doesn't matter what system you use - if you still have cutter glint the saw will not cut correctly. See here.

Next, how worn is your chain?

90% of worn chains I see cut poorly because users are not using progressive raker depths. On a 3/8 chain the raker should be about 1/10 of the gullet with. This can be approximated with a Carlton FOP or similar.

Here's a vid showing how I set the rakers on my milling chains with a DAF.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSr9j2EDoqk

And here's a vid of me sharpening - this is way faster than taking off the chain and using an electric sharpener..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWwLEuY5Iao
See how I only need two strokes - that's because I never let my chains get blunt to teh point where I need any more than two or 3 strokes.

I do put my chains on an electric sharpener after about 15-20 file touch ups to get the cutters back to the same length.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

That DAF rig is amazing, Bob!

 

[Philbert]

Great videos BobL. Very simple and clear.

Philbert

 

[WidowMaker]

Help me out here.

What exactly are you measuring with the DAF and how does it relate(translate) to raker depth setting...

Great vids by the way

 

[Junkrunner]

I'm looking at a used one today, at my buddy's. He said he bought it at a saw shop, going out of business. Don't know the make yet, but I'd imagine it would be a higher quality unit. As far as new, the Silvey looks the best for the amount of chains I'm starting to do.

I've been hand filing all my chains and my customers too. But it's just to much.
Customers chains are usually "rock" filed, leading me to remove alot of material. Which is time consuming. Working for myself in several different fields of work ( building custom homes, property care, welding & fabrication, small engine repair, tree service/firewood and husband/father) Isn't letting awhole lot of time, to waste, filing a 1/16"to 1/8" off by hand. I have bin doing 3 to 5 chains a night by hand. Carpol tunnel ain't helping any either

But I'll ALWAYS sharpen mine by hand.

 

[sawkiller]

Yes, Bob more info on the DAF method!

 

[mtngun]

There's a FOP/DAF thread on the chainsaw forum -- guess it really belongs on the sharpening forum.

BobL's FOP/DAF thread

 

[gemniii]

It doesn't matter what system you use - if you still have cutter glint the saw will not cut correctly. See here.

Nice pic thread Bob, but if you could of showed a couple of side by side, before and after it would help us easily also see. And warning to others - that thread declines to motorcycle pictures and beer.

Next, how worn is your chain?

90% of worn chains I see cut poorly because users are not using progressive raker depths. On a 3/8 chain the raker should be about 1/10 of the gullet with. This can be approximated with a Carlton FOP or similar.

Here's a vid showing how I set the rakers on my milling chains with a DAF.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSr9j2EDoqk

And here's a vid of me sharpening - this is way faster than taking off the chain and using an electric sharpener..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWwLEuY5Iao
See how I only need two strokes - that's because I never let my chains get blunt to teh point where I need any more than two or 3 strokes.

I do put my chains on an electric sharpener after about 15-20 file touch ups to get the cutters back to the same length.

And what do you use for your grinder?

And to the OP - the NT/TSC grinder used to be available on sale for $90, and the Oregon cost $400. Now the NT is up to $130 on sale and Oregon has a mini grinder for $200 that will probably do everything the non-pro user needs.