Falling pics 11/25/09

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stihl sawing
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Across the bridge.
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wheelie.


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bucked...
Good pics Ted, Keep em coming.
 
stihl sawing
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Across the bridge.
One of the roadside hazards I did. Didn't feel like pounding wedges on a tree so close to the road, so I jacked it over. My first time doing the block face with a snipe.

The tree, "freshly dead", still had alot of moisture in the wood. Could still count the growth rings. It didn't lean too hard towards the road, used a plumb bob and estimated a little under a foot off vertical on the greatest amount of lean. It had a slight S curve in the tree, with the lower 2/3 of the tree towards the road and the upper 1/3 neutral, almost perfectly straight. Had some limb weight to work with as well.

I realized I made the jackseat too big, but I still had plenty of holding wood to work with. While it looks like I cut through the hinge, I didn't... Just cut a few lines with the saw to keep things as level and square as possible.

After it went over I said to one of the traffic control guys, "I still got a lot more to learn." He said, "well hell, you're miles ahead of me. I thought it was pretty cool, never seen it done that way."

This has been a fun experience so far. Enjoying it.

0427001633.jpg


0427001124-1.jpg
Sweet, Would a regular heavy duty bottle jack work for doing that instead of those expensive tree jacks? I've seen a couple of times that would be nice to have. I figured you would have to put a piece of flat metal on top of the jack to keep the screw from digging in.
 
RandyMac

RandyMac

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Pretty good looking stuff, blockcuts, jacks, you both are headed toward advanced studies. Try out things when you feel ready, don't get carried away, well too much. Excessive creativity can cause spectacular results, I lost a three month old 050 by operating out of my range.
 
forestryworks

forestryworks

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Sweet, Would a regular heavy duty bottle jack work for doing that instead of those expensive tree jacks? I've seen a couple of times that would be nice to have. I figured you would have to put a piece of flat metal on top of the jack to keep the screw from digging in.

I use a little 12 ton bottle jack from time to time. They have their limits though. I either use a little 4"x4" 1/4" thick steel plate on top of the ram, or put a wedge in. The problem with bottle jacks is they can get spit out of the backcut cause the head of the ram (or the plate) doesn't pivot with the square portion of the backcut as the tree lifts.

I used it on this tree cause I knew I could do it, and didn't need too much lift. About 2" on the jack was all i needed. I just didn't feel like pounding wedges 8ft. from the road.

I've jacked two trees over in the last 3 years if that says anything. Wedges do most of the lifting around here.
 
stihl sawing
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
47,452
Location
Across the bridge.
I use a little 12 ton bottle jack from time to time. They have their limits though. I either use a little 4"x4" 1/4" thick steel plate on top of the ram, or put a wedge in. The problem with bottle jacks is they can get spit out of the backcut cause the head of the ram (or the plate) doesn't pivot with the square portion of the backcut as the tree lifts.

I used it on this tree cause I knew I could do it, and didn't need too much lift. About 2" on the jack was all i needed. I just didn't feel like pounding wedges 8ft. from the road.

I've jacked two trees over in the last 3 years if that says anything. Wedges do most of the lifting around here.
Yeah i wouldn't do it much either, Had a few trees that were leaning the wrong direction. Wouldn't hurt nothing if they fell any way but wanted them to fall a certain way to load up the wood easier. May try it one day. The truck winch and wedges has always worked fine though.
 
Burvol

Burvol

Bullbuck
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Apr 10, 2007
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One of the roadside hazards I did. Didn't feel like pounding wedges on a tree so close to the road, so I jacked it over. My first time doing the block face with a snipe.

The tree, "freshly dead", still had alot of moisture in the wood. Could still count the growth rings. It didn't lean too hard towards the road, used a plumb bob and estimated a little under a foot off vertical on the greatest amount of lean. It had a slight S curve in the tree, with the lower 2/3 of the tree towards the road and the upper 1/3 neutral, almost perfectly straight. Had some limb weight to work with as well.

I realized I made the jackseat too big, but I still had plenty of holding wood to work with. While it looks like I cut through the hinge, I didn't... Just cut a few lines with the saw to keep things as level and square as possible.

After it went over I said to one of the traffic control guys, "I still got a lot more to learn." He said, "well hell, you're miles ahead of me. I thought it was pretty cool, never seen it done that way."

This has been a fun experience so far. Enjoying it.

0427001633.jpg


0427001124-1.jpg

I'm proud of you Buddy! :cheers:

Your at the very top of my list for breaking in a faller, if I ever get the pleasure. Molding your fragile mind, MUAHAHAA lol. I've cut with quiet a few guys now, and see how everyone has their own tricks, the universally known ones, and the waste of time ####. I ain't saying I'm some killer timber faller, but I am a quality concious SOB that just likes to do it. I stick with safe productive habits and just grind it out all day. Take your breaks on the stump. It works out great. You rest your legs and make your shot count. Two birds with one stone, stuff like that will make you produce more wood. Bob and I talked about that sort of thing over the phone on Christmas...respect what it is, and know you have a great handle on things, but never fully control it, even if it seems like it.

I know you take care of your body and eat well, don't drink too much, you'll make it, I know you will. It's gonna be a life changing move coming west and being my neighbor, but I think you'll like it. There is a few things that may or may not happen in the next two years, and depending on how they pan out, I am going to put together my own crew. Everyone runs their own numbers, but we go as a crew on jobs. I have built a good rep with everyone I have cut logs for and have an open door at every outfit. I want good guys that have their heart in the job and treat it like it still means something.

You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there :), and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol :)
 
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Jacob J.
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You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there :), and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol :)

I'm calling dibs on the west side strips... :)
 
Jacob J.
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Good looking work. Can someone tell me the why about the block faces?

Block out faces work good in situations where you want the holding wood to fold with the tree. That way when the hinge breaks, it pulls the tongue from the stump rather than the log. Block out faces also let you control the timing of getting the butt to the ground. It may be desirable to get the butt on the ground sooner if you're cutting something real brittle, or later if you're falling a tall piece over a long sweep.
 
huskyhank

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Block out faces work good in situations where you want the holding wood to fold with the tree. That way when the hinge breaks, it pulls the tongue from the stump rather than the log. Block out faces also let you control the timing of getting the butt to the ground. It may be desirable to get the butt on the ground sooner if you're cutting something real brittle, or later if you're falling a tall piece over a long sweep.

OK, the block out face keeps the log attached to the stump a bit longer because the hinge bends some before breaking - that makes sense.
 
tramp bushler

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Forestry: you need a jacking plate ..... Those nice little stubby 20 ton bottle jacks work fine for not huge trees .... I SERIOUSLY recomend against using a wedge . even a maggy will get pretzled real easy . and I have poked a couple holes thru plastic wedges ....... A nice 6" diameter circle of 3/8th" plate steel with a handle welded to it . and a 2" diameter 1/4 - 1/2" high ring of steel pipe welded to the center to keep the jack in it,s place .
 
slowp
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I'm proud of you Buddy! :cheers:


You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there :), and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol :)

What side of The River will this A-Team be working on? :dizzy::)
 
Gologit

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You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there :), and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol :)

With a crew like that there wouldn't be much for the side rod to do...just give them their strips and get out of the way. Oh...and order up some trucks....lots of trucks. :)
 
Hddnis

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I wouldn't feel worthy to work alongside such a team, but if you'll let me handle the camera, I've taken one or two decent pictures in my time. I could make you all famous. lol




Mr. HE:cool:
 

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