Felling bar for in the tree?

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treeman82

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I don't know what got me to thinking about this, but I am pondering the idea of taking a felling bar up into the trees with me on removals. Just for a little bit of extra umph when taking out a top, or a larger log. It would be nice to just take out a bar, as opposed to having to use a tag line to get the piece to go over.
 
one of our local shops had some once, short one about 14inches long with the lever at a right angle to the actual wedge part.
dont think they sold too many so discontinued them
 
wedges and stuff

we have a little yellow wedge which goes up and a mini breaking bar, its not quite wide enough to stop the chunk pinching the saw but it helps in pushing chunks off

jamie
 
I think it was RB Tree that mentioned using a small nail bar for popping chunks aloft. In any case-Matt you are not alone.
 
Yep... I generally carry a felling bar on removals (once blocking and for tops occasionally... use a short saw lanyard on it... also a plastic wedge with a threaded eye in it and a loop of light line so I can clip it to my belt, standard wedges don't fit in an 020 kerf... so you have to touch the edge up with a grinder... you can use the felling bar to pound the wedge... and when you need it you can throw the wedge at the ground crew to grab their attention!
 
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That would work perfectly for such an action. The hole in it would allow you to hang it from your belt. :)
 
I have a felling bar with a cant hook. I rarely use he bar for felling but do use the cant to help move logs around. I would much rather carry a wedge and a small hammer, I'm sure it would produce more movement than the bar. The wedge will at least keep the kerf open, where as the bar will only hold it open as long as you are prying on it. What happens if you find out you can't move it enough to send it over, if you let off you risk the top setting back where as with a wedge it will just stop moving and can't set back. Then you or a groundie can try to shoot a rope in it to bring it over. 8 out of 10 trees I fell will have a pull line to ensure it is going to go where I want it. Sounds crazy to bring up heavy gear when a rope placed from the ground will almost always suffice.
Greg
 
i used a nailbar simular to the one cybergeek pictured, but mines more straight and it hitches to my harness with a bit of prussic cord. Worth its weight in gold when blocking down 25 inches and over size trunks.
 
Never desired a felling bar, but the small wedge I take up has come in mighty handy. Small screw-eye and a few feet of starter cord keep it aloft.
 
If a section I take out does not have a considerable lean to where I want it to go, It gets a tag line attached to it. I have to admit I have never used a prybar, or wedge, but, I can't see risking the limb setting back or going the wrong way.
 
O, that is for chunking, or in addition to pull line, more flexing hinge over into rig under, for less shock etc.

Prolly, Eric; but in the time of necessity/ on site; materials available, that worked and stayed; i guess. Good i dea though; even fer a moderator. :eek:

i think i paid $8 at flea market at most. Also good for sneaking wedge in deeper, on slow flexes of hinge; giving lift. Getting slide on salami(?) etc.
 
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Your thuch a thavage big boy!

i guess power is going to be how much weight you can drop on bar X distance from hinge versus how much push X distance from hinge. The wider than long, not giving much push or line pull advantage sometimes. i still like any pull line over the top, to grab maximum position and arched input motion onto hinging wood.
 
:blob2: :blob2: Above 20" and I use a felling bar, I call it a pounder. I use the Sandvik without the cant hook. If the wood is big enough I'll have the pounder and a wedge in the tree. I detest pinching the chain and I really get buggy watching someone else do it while chunking. :blob2:
 

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