It really depends on what is gonna happen with the tree's,like when I cut tree's for pulp I'll use a open face notch and make the back cut parallel to the notch,or if I'm cutting for board feet I'll use a Humbolt notch and make the back cut 1" or a little more above the notch to savw as much wood as possible,at least that's my style and if it's anything smaller than 22" I make my notches and back cut's with a Hydro Ax shear buncher.Like I said before it all depends on what your doing with the tree,I know alot of arborist don't use the same techniques as a logger does for felling etc...I hope this helps you out a little I'm sure you will get some more reply's from the others...
nomatter what i cut i always try to match the front cut with the back you can open face, or humbolt, it don't mean thats where its going but, pay attention to the tree , if you want to directional fall it use wedges, but thats another story, just be careful, thats the mainest thing.
i like my felling lever for the 10-18" stuff that way i don't have to pound wedges in small stuff although i will if i have to. i mostly use an open face at waist hight, keep in mind though i'm not logging so losing the board feet doesn't matter to me. i make the back cut either right at or an inch above the face cut
you can also "steer" a tree somewhat by leaving the hinge thicker on one side or the other depending on where you want the tree to go. i'll post some pics on this latter:angel:
I always line up my back to my front when I open face,and I also use wedges alot during the course of a day,Your right though wedgeing is a whole other story...So what do you use for a notch most of the time??Ryan's right about steering a tree with the hinge that's a good point.I also have a felling bar but I usually use a 10" abs wedge just because it's in my pouch and the bar is usually in the skidder or the truck where it does'nt belong....
Rob,isn't that the way it goes, or you have your felling bar set up next to you so you can put it in the kerf before the tree sits down on your bar, and the lever falls over and you wind up wedging anyway,lol. i still like the lever though. mine also has a built in can't hook, good for trees up to about 35" depending on the bark or something to get a bite on for trees that size.
My bar is similar to that one you have mine I got from my Husky dealer it also has a cant hook on it,your right though that's the way it does go sometimes,thats why almost every tree I cut I put a 5" wedge or a 10" in behind the saw so that does'nt happen...Well I guess I gotta go to bed now so I can get up at 4:00 and start cuttin a 5:00 or so,I'll talk to ya tomorrow from my lap top..
sorry, camra program isn't working properly got the camra part down and the shrinking, now i just gotta work on the program that i use to convert the pics to jpeg
I cut around 50 trees a day, other guys skid them for me.
I cut for board footage an usually openface everything. Only on some of the bigger ones i use a humbolt. I wedge everything when I am felling... Longass walk back to the truck to get another saw if the thing sets back.
Usually leave the truck in the morning and dont see it until the evening. pack everything with me..
FISTA (Forest Industry Safety Training Alliance) has a very good safety traing manual out with all your types of notches etc. along with many other helpful ideas. Look into guys...
The best book ever on falling techniques was written By D. Douglas Dent, godfather of modern timber falling. It's available at http://www.baileys-online.com
Another fantastic book on tree work and falling is Jerry Beranek's "The Fundamentals of General Tree Work". It's also at Bailey's. Great big timber pics in there.