Finished My Mill

[820wards]

Well Guys,

I did my final assembly today on my Mill. It has been a lot of fun building the mill using the 820 PowerBee motor in loo of using a true chainsaw. I've attached pictures I took today after assembling the mill. I'm using a 38" bar on the mill with the ability to run a larger bar.

The motor is brand new so I'll run the motor a bit on the rich side and do a stop and start while sawing on my first log.

jerry-

I'll post more pictures

jerry-

 

[820wards]

More Pictures Of Mill

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Last Pictures

That's it

jerry-

 

[irishcountry]

Wow nice work!!! Could you take a pic of the motor to chain connection? Did you use a harvester sprocket? Just curious wondering how you could do the same type of thing with say a vert. shaft lawnmower engine. Can't wait to see that results after you get to use it top notch craftsmanship!!

 

[Woodsurfer]

That is really impressive work. Can you get the same same chain speed as a chainsaw? What's the HP rating of your motor? Let us know how it performs!

 

[820wards]

Wow nice work!!! Could you take a pic of the motor to chain connection? Did you use a harvester sprocket? Just curious wondering how you could do the same type of thing with say a vert. shaft lawnmower engine. Can't wait to see that results after you get to use it top notch craftsmanship!!

Irish,

Here are some pictures of how I fabricated the clutch drum.

The original drum was one that was for a go-cart. I machined the gear off the drum with my lathe and then cut the center section out with my plasma cutter. I didn't even think to take a picture of that process, but anyone who has tried machine a clutch drum will know it is hardened and very hard to machine. I made a mandrel that fit the drum so I could turn and cut it with my plasma cutter.

This is the clutch drum I cut to get the .404 x 7 drive section. It was the same process to cut the go-cart drum.

This is what the drum looked like after I cut it with the plasma cutter. It was so quick and clean of a cut, I didn't have much to machine on the lathe.

[IMG]http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118077&stc=1&d=1260757592


This is a picture of the two drums mounted on the lathe so I could align both pieces together for perfect alignment.

This picture is after I EasyFlowed (Hard Silver Solder) the two pieces together with the appropriate needle bearing. You cannot tig or mig this type of assembly together because of the hardening they do to the drums. The best was is to braze with hard silver if you have the torches to do the job.

This picture is the clutch and drum mounted on the motor. I have a WARDS 820 that I made the same drum for about 20 years ago and all I have ever had to do is replace the .404 x 7 drive piece when I wore the chains out.

Hope this shows what I did OK.

jerry-

 

[deeker]

I hate people like you.

Well engineered and clean......jeeeeeeeeeze........

Looks fantastic....now get it dirty and lets see it in action..

What kind of hp/torque are you making with it??

Kevin

 

[isaaccarlson]

Don't get that thing dirty.....NICE WORK!!! nt

.

 

[820wards]

That is really impressive work. Can you get the same same chain speed as a chainsaw? What's the HP rating of your motor? Let us know how it performs!

Wood surfer,

The 820 PowerBee motors have been used on a number of chain saws. I have a Montgomery 820 that used the same motor as I have used on the mill. The motor on the mill has been updated to a 1" intake manifold and carb. The Wards saw I have has the same carburetor in a 90 degree intake, electronic ignition and carbon fiber reed valves. I'm running a 30" Cannon bar and it cuts dry Oak like butter. My saw probably operates in the 7,000-8,500 RPM range, but it has plenty of torque.

There a a number of competition saw build on the WARDS frame. My friend Art Martin built a saw with this motor w/duel carburetors.

Here are a few pictures of the saw with the 820 PowerBee Motor.

 

[820wards]

I hate people like you.

Well engineered and clean......jeeeeeeeeeze........

Looks fantastic....now get it dirty and lets see it in action..

What kind of hp/torque are you making with it??

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks, I'm ready to get it dirty....:chainsawguy:

I'm hoping this coming week to fire the new motor, but it's supposed to be raining again all week.

As for HP, the stock motor makes 12-13hp using the stock 7/8" bore carb. I have installed a 1" intake and carburetor so if I get 1hp more, that would be great! As for torque, it has plenty, that is why I'm using a .404 x 7 pitch drive it won't bog down under a heavy load. I'm using the same carburetor on my WARDS saw.

My buddy had to cut a healthy ash tree down in front of his house so that is what we are planning to test the mill on. I'll post how it operated when we mill the tree. With the holidays sneaking up on me, I'm not sure when we'll be able to mill.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

.

I have to get it dirty, that's why I built it. I need wood!!!!!

 

[BobL]

I agree the workmanship is absolutely outstanding.

The one thing I'm still having trouble with is the ergonomics of the handle. Unless the log is small (ie <18" diameter) so the operator can straddle the log with their legs, the operator will have to stand over to the side of the log. The handle then is located directly above the log - see picture below.

To use both hands on the handle the operator will have to either place their left hand across their body or stand sideways and apply forward pressure sideways. I can see right away this will be OK for about 5 minutes and seriously fatiguing after that.

Now what will happen when the saw bogs down against the side of the log. The handle will have to be see sawed sideways - that should not be a problem and should easily unbog the saw but easing the saw back into the cut using a controlled sideways push will not be so easy. What I can see happening is the potential for continual saw bogging.

After experimenting with a lot of handle placements I reckon the best place for a handle that provides sufficient leverage to unbog a saw and then ease it back into the cut is one somewhere higher up near the power head (purple handle) and one near the cross piece on the mill. In this position there will be, moderate arm separation, minimal body twisting and maximum control.

Of course this is just my opinion and your mileage may vary.

 

[820wards]

I agree the workmanship is absolutely outstanding.

Thanks Bob, coming from you I'm honored after seeing the stuff you have built.

The one thing I'm still having trouble with is the ergonomics of the handle. Unless the log is small (ie <18" diameter) so the operator can straddle the log with their legs, the operator will have to stand over to the side of the log. The handle then is located directly above the log - see picture below.

Bob, no picture, but as for the handle. The handle is far enough back that I can stand straight up while holding the handle. The handle will also accommodate a second person at the nose of the mill. If it doesn't work, I can always make a new handle system. When I test it, I'll let you know how the back feels after a day of use.

As for my hand positions, I'll be operating the throttle with my left hand and pumping the oilier with my right hand. Plus, the handle I made that my left hand will be on is long so I can hold it high or low.

I'm sure it has it's flaws, but I'll know more after I use the machine.

jerry-

 

[Metals406]

That's some clean fab!!

 

[irishcountry]

Thanks for the pics 820 looks like you know what your doing!!

 

[820wards]

That's some clean fab!!

Thanks You

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Thanks for the pics 820 looks like you know what your doing!!

I'm sure I'll some bugs to work on once I get it running.

jerry-

 

[petersenj20]

Rep to ya brother!

I've thought it strange for a long time now that I have never seen a standard engine on a chainsaw bar. Well now....Lookiee here. I assume this is a 2 stroke engine?

Any fab guy could come up with an engine mount, but your drive sprocket is pure genius! That seems to be the hold up with this kind of mod. You got the cogs rolling and now its time to make something. HF has 6.5hp engines on sale for $129. Hmmmmmmm......

 

[820wards]

I've thought it strange for a long time now that I have never seen a standard engine on a chainsaw bar. Well now....Lookiee here. I assume this is a 2 stroke engine?

Yes, it's a two stroke motor.

Any fab guy could come up with an engine mount, but your drive sprocket is pure genius! That seems to be the hold up with this kind of mod. You got the cogs rolling and now its time to make something. HF has 6.5hp engines on sale for $129. Hmmmmmmm......

Go for it!

jerry-

 

[BobL]

As for my hand positions, I'll be operating the throttle with my left hand and pumping the oilier with my right hand. Plus, the handle I made that my left hand will be on is long so I can hold it high or low.

I'm sorry to harp on this but I really do want to save you some time. The left and right hand positions still don't sound right. I assume you are standing in front of the carby, if so then I assume your left hand will be on the oiler and the right will be on the throttle? If you plan to push from the oiler handle it is too high and will want to tip the mill over. Maybe a photo of you holding onto it will help explain what you mean?

Anyway, you are right - 10 minutes of working with it and you will either find a way to live with it or modify it accordingly. It's a very interesting design and provides much food for thought and inspiration for us all.