firewood tractors

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Thats my plan, to turn all the bigger stuff in boards and the smaller stuff into 2x6's. I have a small HF bandsaw mill and it set up on a slab, just behind the tractor in the picture. The shed shown is going to be torn down this spring its in pretty rough shape.

So far I have sawn out around 2000+ BF, that pile is somewhere around 2500+/- BF, I would like to double that next weekend, then turn some attention to firewood for next year.
 
Can I ask why so much clearance around the wheels on that trailer? I ask because I'm not sure of why the centre of gravity needs to be so high. Must be a reason, so hoping to learn a thing or two.
 
It has a temporary center beam that is 4" higher than the original one that I bent .
The wheels are independent side to side and will climb large rocks or sumps , Stable even at that height .
 
It has a temporary center beam that is 4" higher than the original one that I bent .
The wheels are independent side to side and will climb large rocks or sumps , Stable even at that height .
Thanks. That's a lot of travel.How much easier climbing rocks, etc do you find it compared to a fixed axle?
In terms of width, do the tyres track outside the log bunks, inside, or directly below them? I ask because if it's fine to have them track outside the width of the bunks, or said another way, have the load running just inside the tyres, then the load could sit down quite a bit lower and still not limit the wheel travel.
 
Most of the logging trailers I've seen , atv or tractor , have the log bunks going up and over the tyres .
A fixed axle works great on roads and flat fields but will fetch up on a stump and stop you dead in your tracks LOL
 
Most of the logging trailers I've seen , atv or tractor , have the log bunks going up and over the tyres .
Same here. ATV, well, I can understand them wanting to keep the narrow wheelbase but add load carrying capacity which necessitates the up and over bunks. But I'm unsure why this is needed for the tractor trailers, when the trailer wheels can go on the outside of the bunks, travel as much as they always did and still be a narrower wheelbase than the tractor.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I will try and make one. The problem is that when winching in the larger trees, hard maple, that are over 16" diameter and 30 to 40 feet long they are too hard to steer by using a cant hook. Some pulls could be over 130'. If I cut the log into shorter pieces and use the sliders on the mainline to draw them up it is a wider problem and catches more trees.
It sees like the larger the skid log, the more tree gravity pulls it into a standing tree. I can use snatch blocks and sometimes put the mainline over a stump to get a bit of sideways steering, but it all takes time.
 

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It sees like the larger the skid log, the more tree gravity pulls it into a standing tree. I can use snatch blocks and sometimes put the mainline over a stump to get a bit of sideways steering, but it all takes time.
There was a video that I saw of a guy using using self releasing snatch blocks to steer a log through the woods, slicker than slick. I'll see if i can find it and post a link. I guess the blocks aren't cheap, but look like real time savers.

Found it:
 
The skid cone from portablewinch does 20" , mine would work as is to about 16" , if I needed bigger I'd form a bigger cone from a second barrel and bolt it to the smaller one .
 
Nice way to make a set of forks cantoo .
Timberjackrussel , here's today's new skid cone .

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Heavy duty boat bumper , polly take a 14" stick , it was free so if it doesn't work I won't cry about it , if it works my brother gets the other one .
 
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