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Nice way to make a set of forks cantoo .
Timberjackrussel , here's today's new skid cone .

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Heavy duty boat bumper , polly take a 14" stick , it was free so if it doesn't work I won't cry about it , if it works my brother gets the other one .
That gets me thinking. Thanks
 
timber, I'm sure Tony has a 420 propane tank laying around or knows where to get one?
Already thought about a propane tank cut up to make a skidding cone.
The plastic used on the boards of an ice rink are really tough and may make a great cone if you can work it into a cone shape. Just a matter of getting the stuff and getting to it.
With this cold and a bit of snow (ice) skidding logs should be a bit cleaner.
Will try this weekend. The self releasing snatch blocks are nice but I have only the regular 4 and 6 ton ones.
 
You need to chain it up! It makes a night and day difference!!

SR
I priced chains not to long ago. 240$ a set. Little out of my price range. But with no weights it pushed the 5 inch deep wet snow good. Pushed as far back as possible cause I think once it freezes im not moving them any more. Had to hit a few piles in 3rd but dose good. Then went to work and hoped in the wa200 and moved as much snow in one bucket as all day with fhe tractor...
 
Just buy some used semi chains and build what you need, it really isn't all that hard to do...

SR
 
or craigslist some used tractor chains. just measure the width of your tires and figure out how wide you need on the cross links. the rest is just cutting off adding the excess
 
Well, if it was going to back off, that's the side I'd expect it!

Glad it was an easy fix. I had two bearing failures on my atv trailer last year - both at highway speed. I repaired the axle the first time with a new spindle, and replaced the axle as a whole the second time. I've still got it, but it got nicked in the seal surface when I cut the second race off after it'd been driven on sans rollers. I figure it'll do fine for a woods trailer, but even if I weld in the nick it would eat seals at freeway speed unless I cut the stub out and turn it down, then weld it back in - and that's just too much work for a $20 part. :D
 
I got an update on my loader today. (I've known all I'm about to say for a while, I just didn't post it) Deere discontinued the 553 and redesigned the 512 to work with the bigger tires of the MFWD tractors in the 50xx series. The 512 is now the standard loader for the whole 3 cylinder line until you hit the 75hp, the next option up is the H240. H240's start at $6K for NSL (non-self leveling - MSL or mechanical self-leveling added another $2K to that and reduced the lift and curl) and add another foot of lift, which adds a bunch of forward protrusion too (not good for me), while being functionally equivalent to the 512 in lift and curl. So I went with the 512. Removal is 4 pins instead of 2 - I'm fine with that.

Since the tractor needs rear ballast to pick up more than 2400# anyway, I'll be fine with the 512 for how I plan to use the rig. I have a lot of soft earth from heavy clay soils that stay gooey into mid summer, so adding fluid and/or wheel weights is a no-go for me. I can always add a ballast box if I need one for really heavy stuff. I'm more interested in trading my tires out for wider ones than worrying I can't pick up a car. :)

ETA at the dealer for my 2015 512 loader and 73" gp bucket is Feb 6th. He said they'd need a day or two to get it installed, and it could ship earlier yet but Friday is the current date posted. Gonna be a long week. :D

I managed to find pics of one 5055e with a 512 up in Canada on a 2010 model (exact same tractor). So this is close to what she'll look like.
 

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