First Saw rebuild, husky 350

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Kensie1988

Vintage Saw Maniac
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So I got a Husqvarna 350 for $100 non running as is. I thought it was a decent deal so I went ahead and picked it up.

Now I've started tearing it down for a rebuild and wanted to get some opinions on what route to take

I see a lot of people building them into a 346xp, I'm leaning towards this route and I need to know what all I will need to make this work

I'm currently trying to find a good case for it since the muffler melted the one I have, will the muffler brace fit on all models of the 350?

I think I will also put in new seals while I am down there.

Anything else I might need to add to the list?

Will the 350 carb work on a 346xp top end? If not then I might want to go another route because I want to keep as many parts as I can.
 
I'm currently trying to find a good case for it since the muffler melted the one I have, will the muffler brace fit on all models of the 350?

Buy a 346xp muffler brace and trim the flywheel side mount off. The clutch side of the mount lines up with the spike upper hole. See my red 2150 for the same. I loctited the hell outta the muffler to cylinder bolts as they are prone to coming loose.

Some guys screw into the plastic case, but I am pretty sure this is a neater and still sturdy enough method. Works for me..

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Buy a 346xp muffler brace and trim the flywheel side mount off. The clutch side of the mount lines up with the spike upper hole. See my red 2150 for the same. I loctited the hell outta the muffler to cylinder bolts as they are prone to coming loose.

Some guys screw into the plastic case, but I am pretty sure this is a neater and still sturdy enough method. Works for me..

View attachment 594372
View attachment 594373
Awesome! Glad to know there is a quick fix for that! Don't want to ruin another plastic crankcase!
 
All you will need is a 346xp piston and cylinder. I got mine from member Spike60. Bearing and seal replacement would probably not be a bad idea while you have it apart. You will probably be able to delete the base gasket to bump compression a smidge, but check the squish to make sure. A carb kit, fuel hose and filter, and a new metal intake clamp are all cheap insurance as well. After that open up the muffler a little and you should have a hell of a 50cc saw.
 
All you will need is a 346xp piston and cylinder. I got mine from member Spike60. Bearing and seal replacement would probably not be a bad idea while you have it apart. You will probably be able to delete the base gasket to bump compression a smidge, but check the squish to make sure. A carb kit, fuel hose and filter, and a new metal intake clamp are all cheap insurance as well. After that open up the muffler a little and you should have a hell of a 50cc saw.
I've seen issues where the impulse port is different from the 350 to 346xp, what can be done to remedy that issue?
 
I have not ran across that issue. If memory serves I believe the issue had more to do with the base gasket. If you delete that and use a sealer like yamabond you will need to be mindful of the impulse port during assembly.
 
View attachment 594376 This is their epoxy job, looks horrible, and the piston also doesn't look right.

Think you want the 45mm flat top piston. There are a lot of cylinder and piston sizes and combos on the 340/345/350/351/346's etc/. My 2150 was a flat top 45mm. Think yours will be a dished 45mm EPA. Swap it out for a 45mm flat top, base delete, muffler mod as @cuinrearview mentioned and it is a damn good saw. With these tiny mods (without porting) I recon it will run with a stock 346xp. And it looks nicer for longer with it being plastic and not chip ridden paint ;)
 
Hmm, I don't have any hands on experience with this so forgive my ignorance, but I looked at pictures of the 346xp pulse port which is a vertical port out of the crankcase the 90's at the intake back to the carb, the 350 cylinder impulse is a horizontal port strait though the cylinder itself.

346xp Port
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350 Port
IMG_7744.PNG

Bearing cup
IMG_7742.PNG
 
Hmm, I don't have any hands on experience with this so forgive my ignorance, but I looked at pictures of the 346xp pulse port which is a vertical port out of the crankcase the 90's at the intake back to the carb, the 350 cylinder impulse is a horizontal port strait though the cylinder itself.

346xp Port
View attachment 594377

350 Port
View attachment 594379

Bearing cup
View attachment 594378
Put a 346xp base gasket on the riser as a template and dremel out a scallop for where the impulse comes through. Remove the material kinda like below, think thats what the guys on here do.

Make sure you go deep enough for the depth that the cylinder skirt goes into the riser..

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Just a different track to consider. You've got a lot of coin invested in that saw with 100 bucks down and still needing a new case. If you want to get it running for cheap, the farmertec piston and cylinder is 35 bucks delivered. I was impressed how well it ran on my 350. We didn't do any actual port work, just cleaned the edges of the ports and did a base gasket delete. And added a single port in the muffler so it flows better but isn't crackling loud.

Didn't read the other responses but in case it wasn't mentioned be sure to purchase the metal intake boot clamp. The plastic one will fail.

This family of saws are great, I love both of mine.

IMG_7175.JPG
 
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