Fiskars

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Personally, I think axe lengths are about the same as ski lengths - everybody is going to need a different size based on their height, arm length, etc.
 
I ordered mine today. Cheapest what I could find was €79, the x27 and the sharpener together. Have to pay for delivery also (bought in Germany) but it's still cheaper than when I buy it here in Belgium. I'll see how it does, sadly I don't have the price advantage compared to you guys. I can buy a Stihl axe for €80 and pick it up at the shop. But I like the the low weight that the Fiskars have.

Anybody got a Fiskars x37 or x46? The fact that they offer those is a sort of prove that they don't want to suggest the x25 or x27 is the complete tool imo. Comparing axes is probably the same as comparing bars, we all have our preferences :)

They don't seem to offer the 37 or 46 here. I see they also have wedges. I want one!!! If they are as superiod to regular wedges as the 27 is to a regular ax I'd only have to show a round the wedge and it'd fall apart.

Harry K
 
The x37 and x46 are cheaper than the x27 over here.

I ordered the x27 yesterday (see post) and already have it. Took 24h to get here, I would have to wait longer if I ordered it in a store here :msp_biggrin:.
Sadly it's raining so I just tried it out a couple of times inside the garage. You immediately feel that it works different than a normal axe. Normally I want to hit through the wood and hit the stump. That works fine with an old Sandvik axe with a shorter handle, that I got from my granddad. It was the only thing I had for splitting last year. When I tried that with the x27 the first time, it bounced on the wood (with a half swing because I can't swing it freely without hitting the ceiling :)). You really want to use your power to hit the top (or the top inch) of the log that you want to split. Then the log just pops open. With a good stump (good height) and some practice, it will probably work well.

I like the length of the x27, Im around 6'8" tall so I think it will fit me well. I'll need to wait on my load of oak, end of the month, before I can really test it.
 
The edge on the Fiskars, after a few days splitting, was a mess- both brittle and plastic deformation. Unbelievable... Junk, IMHO.

It seems as though not all Fiskars are created equally...
I had read all sorts of post making claims as to how "sharp" they come... yet, when I got mine the edge was about like that found on a cheap pocket knife. The first thing I did, before even using it, was to put a file and stone to it. But my edge has held up real well, I've even loaned it out once and struck dirt a couple times... still has a clean, sharp edge. Creating steel used for edged tools is a (relativity) exacting process... perhaps the steel used by Fiskars varies from-batch-to-batch... perhaps the quality control isn't as tight as it was a few years ago... perhaps Fiskars has begun to cut a few corners in the desire to obtain the almighty dollar. That's pretty standard in today's automated and competitive manufacturing climate.
 
Special power of Fiskars

There has been a lot of conversation about the working of the Fiskars. Are they really something special? I DON'T KNOW.

But I ordered mine, got it delivered within 24 hours. Got a phone call a few hours later, that my load of oak (planned to be delivered over 25 days) will be delivered tomorrow. Just saying, if it's not the Fiskars, it's something else that's giving me a sign to start cutting! :chainsaw:

:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I got my X11 today. It's pretty cool. I started on some small pine and maple. I was definitely afraid of it at first. It's light, sharp, and all I could see was it going in to my shin. Later on I moved to some red oak. Shorter pieces 8-10" anywhere from 3-7" in diameter which it blew threw. It's early but I think this is where it's gonna shine. Easier to swing than the X27 and just as effective. After that I when to some much older red oak. This stuff was 16" long and 10-16" in diameter and had an outer ring of rot around 1 1/2" deep. There were very few single strike splits in this stuff but, I split something like 8 rounds before it got dark. The X11 isn't the tool for wood this big, but it did work better than I was expecting which makes it an ideal camping ax.

I did notice that the coating seems to be wearing off faster than it did on the X27. 1/3 of the wood I split today had been on the ground for a year or 2 and was pretty dirty.Not to mention we have a lot of sand over here in NJ. Either way I don't put much stock in the coating.
 
I got my X11 today. It's pretty cool. I started on some small pine and maple. I was definitely afraid of it at first. It's light, sharp, and all I could see was it going in to my shin. Later on I moved to some red oak. Shorter pieces 8-10" anywhere from 3-7" in diameter which it blew threw. It's early but I think this is where it's gonna shine. Easier to swing than the X27 and just as effective. After that I when to some much older red oak. This stuff was 16" long and 10-16" in diameter and had an outer ring of rot around 1 1/2" deep. There were very few single strike splits in this stuff but, I split something like 8 rounds before it got dark. The X11 isn't the tool for wood this big, but it did work better than I was expecting which makes it an ideal camping ax.

I did notice that the coating seems to be wearing off faster than it did on the X27. 1/3 of the wood I split today had been on the ground for a year or 2 and was pretty dirty.Not to mention we have a lot of sand over here in NJ. Either way I don't put much stock in the coating.

These fiskars are just great products. They do exactly what there supposed to do with out killing your back and tiring you out. I split some white oak today and Every time I use this axe I like it more and more. I havent even been useing my 7 ton electric splitter since I got the x27
 
I did notice that the coating seems to be wearing off faster than it did on the X27. 1/3 of the wood I split today had been on the ground for a year or 2 and was pretty dirty.Not to mention we have a lot of sand over here in NJ. Either way I don't put much stock in the coating.

I wonder if what others have suggested might be true - that the coating is more for show than anything else. Or at least it protects wherever it doesn't wear off. I've started doing what somebody else suggested - spraying it with WD-40 when I put it away - and that's working great for me. It doesn't seem to make a difference at all in spitting ability.
 
I wonder if what others have suggested might be true - that the coating is more for show than anything else. Or at least it protects wherever it doesn't wear off. I've started doing what somebody else suggested - spraying it with WD-40 when I put it away - and that's working great for me. It doesn't seem to make a difference at all in spitting ability.
My father always put old oil (using a old paint brush) on the shovel/big hammer/axe etc before he would put them away. Shovel was more than 20 years old, used when building 3 houses, but still looked new. It's a good way to keep rust away.
 
My X 27 gets a coat of B&C oil after every use. It is then hung on it's own special hook away from all of the other implements. The family is not even allowed to look at her unless they have filled out an application to do so, and it is approved by higher powers. Since I am the guy who makes those decisions, I don't see an approval in the near future.
:msp_thumbsup:
 
My X 27 gets a coat of B&C oil after every use. It is then hung on it's own special hook away from all of the other implements. The family is not even allowed to look at her unless they have filled out an application to do so, and it is approved by higher powers. Since I am the guy who makes those decisions, I don't see an approval in the near future.
:msp_thumbsup:

You are a serious, just man. I even think you are being a little on the lenient side, as your family members have KNOWLEDGE of its existence. One can never know how the uninitiated may react.

SA
 
My father always put old oil (using a old paint brush) on the shovel/big hammer/axe etc before he would put them away. Shovel was more than 20 years old, used when building 3 houses, but still looked new. It's a good way to keep rust away.

Oil works that way for wood too.My fathers friends dad has been rubbing used motor oil on his deck for he past 40 years and it still looks like brand new wood. It has a greyish look to wood.
 
I've tested the x27 today. European oak from 4" to 12", logs are 12" long. The Fiskars is great! I like it :D
Thought splitting would be the worst part of the job but I love it now! It's around freezing temperature and the logs are still fresh. I split almost everything with half a swing. Only some older dead logs needed a real swing.
 
I let a buddy of mine trythe x27 because he said there is no way a lite axe will split wood easy as his heavy mauls. After one swing he spit a 24 inch by 16 inch tall round piece right through. He is now going to jump on the Fiskars wagon and leave that heavy maul at home.
 
I've been using the x27 for some time now and I'm still happy about how easily it splits wood. It really works well. The only bad thing that I can say it that the steel doesn't seem to be as hard as I hoped. I've been splitting oak and when you have a log with a knot in it, the edge can dull pretty easily.

Here is some of the work I've done with it.
The wall is 40" high, 20' long, splits are 12".
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Some work that I did today.
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Bad quality pictures, I know. I always split on a stump so this is just damage from hitting knots inside the logs. I sharpened the edge 5 times during the day.
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I've been using the x27 for some time now and I'm still happy about how easily it splits wood. It really works well. The only bad thing that I can say it that the steel doesn't seem to be as hard as I hoped. I've been splitting oak and when you have a log with a knot in it, the edge can dull pretty easily.

Here is some of the work I've done with it.
The wall is 40" high, 20' long, splits are 12".
attachment.php


Some work that I did today.
attachment.php


Bad quality pictures, I know. I always split on a stump so this is just damage from hitting knots inside the logs. I sharpened the edge 5 times during the day.
attachment.php

attachment.php

I would just run a flat file on that and then use the fiskars sharping tool if you have one. Likemnew again after your done.
 
I would just run a flat file on that and then use the fiskars sharping tool if you have one. Likemnew again after your done.
Yea I did. But not sure if I need to sharpen it till the edge is sharp again or file it way back till the every bit of damage is gone?

My edge has held up very well, always checking for foreign debris left on splitting block though.

Yea I clean up the splitting block regularly but I've noticed that the damage to the edge happens when I hit a log hard and it won't split completely because the grain ain't straight (place where a branch grew or just a knot inside the log). I've been checking the edge with each hit to see where the problem was and it seems it's just really hard wood.

Btw, only the lower half of the edge tends to dull when I hit a knot. The top half keeps its edge very well so maybe it's just bad luck and the lower part has some bad steel in it.
 
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I have had an X27 for the better part of 3 months and have yet to put it to wood...After seeing those pictures of the cuttting edge after one days use I may not....what are splitting rocks:msp_confused:
 

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