Forester bar discovery

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Jeff Lary

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I have a 20" Forester bar on 4 of my Partner 5000's and the one I had been running last week was having chain issues. The chain would be tight then loose so today I did a search " saw chain tight then loose" and did some reading. It happens enough that there were some good reply's .
So the jist of it was maybe ,..1) wrong chain, sprocket, and or tip combination. 2) little or no oil. or 3) Bent crank. It turned out that some how I had turned the oil adj screw down some so I opened it up. While I was there I took off the clutch checked the sprocket against the driver's and the tip all are .325 (Stihl full chisel b.t.y)
While I had the bar off I noticed something that is most likely on all Forester bars,.. a very small oil hole in the bar. It is like punched into the bar channel at a 30 degree angle and maybe a 1/16 opening. I knew that on my Windsor, Oregon, and other bars the hole is much larger. So I drilled it out to what turns out to be 17/32 I am in hopes this will be a big help. Not only is the hole small but like I said it appears to be punched into the bar and the ragged left over edge is in the hole as well. I have not run them enough to tell but I hope this is the only issue I discover. I only cut about 14 cord a year but this year I cut 4500' of saw logs as well ( not with one of my forester bar's though ). I did most of my work with a 500 and a Windsor bar. Thought I'd share what I discovered if YOU have any Forester Bars,... check your oil hole's Jeff View attachment 302246View attachment 302250
 
I have also found the oil holes on the Stihl ES bars to be too small and needed opening up some to allow better oiling and less clogging up. I think its just another area where the EPA has mandated less oil pollution but at a cost of more bar and chain wear.
 
I hate to nitpick but 17/32" that is over a half of an inch. 7/32" maybe?
I don't think a bigger oil passage will hurt.
 
I have also found the oil holes on the Stihl ES bars to be too small and needed opening up some to allow better oiling and less clogging up. I think its just another area where the EPA has mandated less oil pollution but at a cost of more bar and chain wear.

I have not seen any bragging about how great the quality of these bars so I figured it was chalked up to an inexpensive bar ? Do you think that the EPA would do that? Wow they need a life !!
 
Good post

Thanks,
I saw a Forester bar awhile back some place and thought I would try a few so when I noticed this I thought I'd better mention it. I just looks ridiculously (sp ) small chain going like lightning and that small hole just makes no sense to me ? I have also noticed that the bar grove seems to be a bit narrow in one spot about 1 inch long. I ran a very small flat file inside the rail a few times and it cleaned right up so we will see I guess.
 
However, I sort of doubt that it will fix your original issue - take a close look at your drive sprocket, and check for wear. Also check that the front sprocket is round and centered.....

Looks as good as I can judge by eye? I guess Definitely need a few new sprockets I am sure.I ought to go buy at least 4 to go with the new bars and chains I guess. As far as the tip goes I will take a closer look if the problem continues.
 
forester bars

I have a 20" Forester bar on 4 of my Partner 5000's and the one I had been running last week was having chain issues. The chain would be tight then loose so today I did a search " saw chain tight then loose" and did some reading. It happens enough that there were some good reply's .
So the jist of it was maybe ,..1) wrong chain, sprocket, and or tip combination. 2) little or no oil. or 3) Bent crank. It turned out that some how I had turned the oil adj screw down some so I opened it up. While I was there I took off the clutch checked the sprocket against the driver's and the tip all are .325 (Stihl full chisel b.t.y)
While I had the bar off I noticed something that is most likely on all Forester bars,.. a very small oil hole in the bar. It is like punched into the bar channel at a 30 degree angle and maybe a 1/16 opening. I knew that on my Windsor, Oregon, and other bars the hole is much larger. So I drilled it out to what turns out to be 17/32 I am in hopes this will be a big help. Not only is the hole small but like I said it appears to be punched into the bar and the ragged left over edge is in the hole as well. I have not run them enough to tell but I hope this is the only issue I discover. I only cut about 14 cord a year but this year I cut 4500' of saw logs as well ( not with one of my forester bar's though ). I did most of my work with a 500 and a Windsor bar. Thought I'd share what I discovered if YOU have any Forester Bars,... check your oil hole's Jeff View attachment 302246View attachment 302250


as someone else pointed out that the bar is copied from the Oregon bar ex the oil holes are the same
size even the replacable noses interchange from forester to Oregon. Ive been selling them for 5 years
the replacable nose ones hold up real good even under heavy use and they are much cheaper. But if your
used to running stihl bars then you have to get used to greasing the tips. great product though
 
Looks as good as I can judge by eye? I guess Definitely need a few new sprockets I am sure.I ought to go buy at least 4 to go with the new bars and chains I guess. As far as the tip goes I will take a closer look if the problem continues.

That is always a good idea!
 
However, I sort of doubt that it will fix your original issue - take a close look at your drive sprocket, and check for wear. Also check that the front sprocket is round and centered.....

not necessarily ,less oil=hotter chain/bar=chain stretch.also a hot-dull chain will stretch too.
 

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