getting logs up and off the ground

[chuckwood]

I've never chainsaw milled before. Looks like it'll be a 30" Granberg Alaskan with a Husky 288XP, and the mini-mill with a smaller Husky for doing the edges. I've got some acreage that's been selectively logged (huge mature oaks), and they left me a good number of big logs on the ground. Jacking them up is the only way to avoid milling on my knees, but how? I'm thinking of welding up a very heavy duty tripod or quadpod with adjustable and removeable legs, and a chain hoist hooked to the top of the tripod. Yeah it's heavy, but I've got a 40 horse diesel 4X4 farm tractor with a front end loader and a trailer to help. Anybody see any problems with such a setup?

Another possible setup that just occured to me is to fasten with lag screws a piece of 1/2" steel angle to the end of the log, and then use a 30 ton bottle jack to push up the steel angle, then put blocks under the log, then more blocks under the bottle jack, and go up another 9 inches or so and so on until I get the height I want. That way I'm working on the end of the log and if it rolls, I'm out of the way. Any other ideas?

 

[SilverBox]

I find that on smaller logs 18" or less if I edge it with the mini mill then roll it twice and edge, I get a cant that is square on 3 sides and round on the bottom. I like to do this while the log is on the ground. Usually with 2 guys I can pick up one end at a time of 10' or less cants (14"x14" or less) and put them on a saw horse to run the alaskan thru the log.

 

[busybeazz]

y don't u use that front end loader and lift the logs if there to heavy do one side at a time

 

[BobL]

I've never chainsaw milled before. Looks like it'll be a 30" Granberg Alaskan with a Husky 288XP, and the mini-mill with a smaller Husky for doing the edges. I've got some acreage that's been selectively logged (huge mature oaks), and they left me a good number of big logs on the ground. Jacking them up is the only way to avoid milling on my knees, but how?

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=55860

 

[chuckwood]

milling small logs on the ground?

I find that on smaller logs 18" or less if I edge it with the mini mill then roll it twice and edge, I get a cant that is square on 3 sides and round on the bottom. I like to do this while the log is on the ground. Usually with 2 guys I can pick up one end at a time of 10' or less cants (14"x14" or less) and put them on a saw horse to run the alaskan thru the log.

Well, the mini mill runs in a vertical position. Unless you have a very short bar, how do you keep the bar out of the dirt? I get backaches just thinking about milling on my knees, all bent over.

 

[chuckwood]

lifting with front end loader?

y don't u use that front end loader and lift the logs if there to heavy do one side at a time

Initially I thought about that, but many of my logs are on hilly, uneven and rutted terrain, the logger's big machines made a lot of ruts and holes, I'm fearful of flipping my tractor over. I don't want to drag the logs to another level spot because then I'll get dirt all over them.

 

[chuckwood]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=55860

Ah, this is what I want! However I'll feel better about the Hi-lift jack if I can modify it to make it more stable. I'm thinking about getting two of them and welding them up together in some type of frame so they work in tandem and have two legs instead of one, there must be a way to make this rig more stable. I don't like the idea of just using the single jack. I'm old enough to have used bumper jacks, and they only work on a vehicle if you're lifting only one wheel, the other wheel must be on the pavement to provide stability.

 

[BobL]

Ah, this is what I want! However I'll feel better about the Hi-lift jack if I can modify it to make it more stable. I'm thinking about getting two of them and welding them up together in some type of frame so they work in tandem and have two legs instead of one, there must be a way to make this rig more stable. I don't like the idea of just using the single jack. I'm old enough to have used bumper jacks, and they only work on a vehicle if you're lifting only one wheel, the other wheel must be on the pavement to provide stability.

I agree stability is critical and I have made an A frame out of angle iron that straddles the jack but its clumsy and heavy and I have probably used it 3 times. I tend to jack up logs only a few inches at a time and jam cookies and stubby firewood length log/pieces under the log as I go, not ideal or quick but it works.

This is another idea and have been meaning to try it for some time.
Make a strong triangular cross braced frame from 2 x 4" hardwood, and tek or coach screw it to the other end of the log. This should be more than enough to stop logs up to about 2ft in diam from turning while the other end is being jacked up. On logs over 2ft in Diameter I would screw longer piece of hardwood to the base of the triangle.

 

[Kicker_92]

Well, the mini mill runs in a vertical position. Unless you have a very short bar, how do you keep the bar out of the dirt?

I've been running the mini-mill about 1/2" shy of the bottom of the log to make sure it never contacts the ground. When your done cutting both sides, tap in a couple of wedges and the side will crack off easily.

Then you have a 3-sided cant ready to go with a nice flat surface beside it to sit / kneal on.

 

[SilverBox]

Well, the mini mill runs in a vertical position. Unless you have a very short bar, how do you keep the bar out of the dirt? I get backaches just thinking about milling on my knees, all bent over.

It sounds like you always put the bar in the mini mill full depth? You can put the mini mill anywhere on the bar, I use a 24" bar most of the time, I'd say my average cut depth that I set it for is around 12-14" the mini mill is clamped about 1/3rd of the way down the bar most of the time. I set it twice to make one 3 sided cant typically, set it once, then choke up on it and cuts 2 and 3 typically can be made with the same depth of cut.

If I don't have enuf free space under the sides of the log to keep the bar tip out of the dirt, I will take a 6' pole and a 4x4 block and raise up each end of the log a bit and shove a block of wood under the log to raise it up a couple of inches. Another thing I'll do is just watch the tip as I cut and use the claw side of a framing hammer and dig a path for the tip to travel in.

 

[Rockfarmer]

yes, what these guys said,.. I just measure from the ground to the top of the mini guide plank on each end of the log and set the depth on the bar. Like they said stay 1" up or whatever and she'll crack through the bark and fall on your toes. Its only 2 cuts and it goes real quick

 

[chuckwood]

It sounds like you always put the bar in the mini mill full depth? You can put the mini mill anywhere on the bar, I use a 24" bar most of the time, I'd say my average cut depth that I set it for is around 12-14" the mini mill is clamped about 1/3rd of the way down the bar most of the time.

Thanks y'all, I'm learning more from you than from the Granberg website. I've just ordered a mini mill, I have not used one yet. I was mistakenly assuming the mill was non-adjustable and bolted onto the bar through a drill hole. I'm hoping that a 65cc saw will be able to do the job. Even if it's a bit slow, I'll only have two edges to cut off and then I'm done.

 

[chuckwood]

I agree stability is critical and I have made an A frame out of angle iron that straddles the jack but its clumsy and heavy and I have probably used it 3 times. I tend to jack up logs only a few inches at a time and jam cookies and stubby firewood length log/pieces under the log as I go, not ideal or quick but it works.

This is another idea and have been meaning to try it for some time.
Make a strong triangular cross braced frame from 2 x 4" hardwood, and tek or coach screw it to the other end of the log. This should be more than enough to stop logs up to about 2ft in diam from turning while the other end is being jacked up. On logs over 2ft in Diameter I would screw longer piece of hardwood to the base of the triangle.

Your A frame rig has given me some other ideas...

I just visited Harbor Freight's website (please, save Harbor Freight discussion for another thread and they've got these jacks rated at 3 1/2 tons capacity each for 45 bucks apiece. I'm thinking of welding up a heavy square steel angle frame with triangle bracing at the corners, get two or three of these jacks and bolt them into this frame, top and bottom, so they're locked in and can't move sideways. The bottom of the frame will be made of maybe 3 or 4 inch angle iron so I've got a large and stable foot or pad for the base of the jacks to bolt onto. This should eliminate any issues with the jack bases sinking into the dirt, additional triangle frames could be bolted onto the sides of this thing facing parallel to the log to prevent the rig from moving backwards or forwards as well. It may sound like overkill, but I've got some seriously heavy logs to work with, up to 30 inches diameter, and most of my ground isn't level. I need to mill up some lumber at least 12 feet long for barn siding.

 

[AndyR]

This pic and description were posted by a person on another forum but I thought I would repost it here. Apologies if that is in bad form, but its a really simple solution and while I haven't picked up all of the parts I need, I think this is the way I'll go in the future....

As posted by slatron25 on woodworkingtalk.com...

"As far as lifting that cant on sawhorses, if you could pick up a couple of 6' frames of scaffolding and 4"x6" beam and a chain hoist it might make your life easier."

This isn't the clearest pic but maybe it will help.


I got a bit nervous with boat winch after one or two logs, so I decided to get one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33003."

 

[Nosmo]

High Lift Jack

I have a 48" model I bought at Tractor Supply Comany. I use it to lift my Cub Cadet Tank 54" mower so I can remove the blades and scrape the underside of the deck.

I have seen these jacks in Atwoods, Tractor Supply Co. and Orschelins farm stores. In all the stores they run about 40 or 45 dollars.

They are also great for jacking out fence posts.

Nosmo

 

[Mad Professor]

I made a ramp (from my own milled hardwood) with "steps" in it to roll the logs with a peavy/cant hook. The steps prevent the log from rolling back down when you grab another bite with the peavy. I can get a 20-25" 12 footer on the logosaw mill all by myself. It takes down with no tools and is portable.

The mill is at my parents house , will post some pictures next time I'm there

 

[woodsrunner]

Hi Lift Jacks

I've never been a big fan of the Hi-Lift style jacks. They are well made, but, they can also HURT you. I have one and have not used it in many years. The problem with them is keeping the lifting mechanism clean and lubed (with out the lube attracting dirt and crud). I'm not saying they don't work but if you decide to use one be very careful. I've seen people get wacked in the jaw with the handle while jacking something up and i've seen these jacks fall under load. If the mechanism gets dirty (dirt, sand, etc) the lifting/holding pins will slide out of the holes in the I beam and the lift mechanism will fall with you. I've also seen them creel over sideways under a load just like the old auto bumper jacks we used have on cars here in the US. If you use one be carefull!!!

Scott

 

[Nosmo]

High Lift Jack

When using my jack for lift that 1,100 lb. mower I place safety jack stands on each side of the deck. These are 3-ton stands.

I have used a floor jack (hydraulic) to lift large logs and then use jack stands on each side of the log with a 4" pipe under the log supported by the stands. If you try this and the ground is wet use a wide board under each stand.

Nosmo

 

[BobL]

I've never been a big fan of the Hi-Lift style jacks. They are well made, but, they can also HURT you. I have one and have not used it in many years. The problem with them is keeping the lifting mechanism clean and lubed (with out the lube attracting dirt and crud). I'm not saying they don't work but if you decide to use one be very careful. I've seen people get wacked in the jaw with the handle while jacking something up and i've seen these jacks fall under load. If the mechanism gets dirty (dirt, sand, etc) the lifting/holding pins will slide out of the holes in the I beam and the lift mechanism will fall with you. I've also seen them creel over sideways under a load just like the old auto bumper jacks we used have on cars here in the US. If you use one be carefull!!!

Yep I agree the hi-lift needs a higher degree of respect compared to other jacks. I have been hit full on the elbow by the handle and it felt like it was broken! Also the way the lift mechanism drops when the load is taken off it can be really nasty.

Most people that get into trouble with these (and other jacks too) are trying to free lift things too far in the one shot. The way to do it safely is, lift a bit - provide support, lift more- provide more support, lift more- provide more support etc and don't be greedy!