GOL bucking..........

[stihl 440]

Do any of you guys use GOL (Game Of Logging) style bucking? You dog in on the far side of the log, and cut until the saw is almost vertical, then you undog and pull the saw towards you while at WOT and use the bar tip to go around the log and leave uncut wood in the middle. Then when the uncut wood in the middle is big enough to hold the log up to keep from pinching your bar, you bore into the bottom side of the log. You leave a little strap of uncut wood at the bottom, then after your bar nose is through the log on the other side you gently cut the strap of wood on the bottom (if on the ground), if the log is not on the ground you can power through it. When cut the log will move a little if it has downward pressure on it, then you cut the remaining holding wood in the center and the log is free and so is your saw. You cut the center holding wood from the top if the log has upward pressure on it. I did this cut on a 20" dry red maple firewood log with my 385xp husky to show you guys. I also took pics from a husqvarna tree fellling book that has this style bucking in it, it was free from my dealer, and is a pretty good book.:greenchainsaw:

 

[stihl 440]

pics

Here are the rest of the husqvarna magazine pics.........:greenchainsaw:

 

[oldsaw]

Looks like you would have to watch the third step pretty close for kickback.

Mark

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Nope.

I cut from the top down, and use a wedge to hold the kerf open.

 

[stihl 440]

transaction

Looks like you would have to watch the third step pretty close for kickback.

Mark

It's all in the transaction from the third to fourth step. At first you will be a little rough (maybe) and after you get the hang of it, it will be real smooth. I use this method primarily for topping, and bucking log at the landing. Although it works well on big limbs as well. It basically takes the stress off the sapwood and uses the heartwood's strength, and keeps you from pinching your bar. I've necer seen any of you guys use this method on here, so I figured I'd show it. Over here, all of my buddys use it and every other logging landing that I've went to I've also seen this method. If somebody has never seen this method before, and you do it in front of them, they will look at you funny at first.........then when they see how good it works they see that it is not all that goofy. I figured maybe somebody might learn something new, if I put this up. This method is WAY faster once you get the hang of it. I don't use it for every cut........but I use it a lot. It is very addicting......uh oh.......sort of like CAD!!!:greenchainsaw:

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I just cut about halfway down from the top and then come up from underneath and finish the cut. If I cant get underneath I jamb some sticks or something in to prevent pinching as stated above.

No chance of eating the bar that way

 

[stihl 440]

cuts

You guys can see my cuts on the log ok....right? The pics are from my cellphone......as I don't have enough money to buy a good camera right now......been spending it on saws and getting ready for logging season. But if you haven't tried this method.......try it sometime on a log that is lightly in the air.........you'll see that it works. My one logging buddy that has been logging longer than me showed me how to fine-tune this method.....which may be why I'm good at it...but it is easy to do once you get the hang of it. Just putting info out there for folks that want to try new things and try stuff that works better in some cases.:greenchainsaw:

 

[Jonny Quest]

I just cut about halfway down from the top and then come up from underneath and finish the cut. If I cant get underneath I jamb some sticks or something in to prevent pinching as stated above.

No chance of eating the bar that way

I use my plastic felling wedges to keep the kerf open. Occasionally, however, the wedge falls down on top of the chain. I have a couple of wedges with some interesting zings in them.

 

[Jonsered2095]

Yep, if the log is supported at both ends, and the bar wont reach.

In reverse if supported at only one end, again if the bar wont reach.

Otherwise, just down and up/up and down, up or down - depending.

 

[sloth9669]

box cut

i thought this cut was used with a log with stress on it and the cutter wanting to not splinter a timber log and keep its value. Not bucking wood unless you needed to de-stress a log in the pile.

 

[stihl 440]

cuts

Yep, if the log is supported at both ends, and the bar wont reach.

In reverse if supported at only one end, again if the bar wont reach.

Otherwise, just down and up/up and down, up or down - depending.

Finally someone who uses it!LOL I use it for logs that are under the guide bar length as well as logs that are more than lengh of the guide bar. If you guy's have any questions just ask or PM me..........:greenchainsaw:

 

[RiverRat2]

We use it on big stuff especaily when all you have is a 20" bar mounted and you only have about a half dozen cuts or so to finish to make or finish a load!!!! some times its eazier than swapping bars especially if a 20 or 24 is good enough for the majority of the worKKKKKKKKK,,, LOLOL!!!!

Gosh I'm getting lazy!!!!!

I did this cut on a 20" dry red maple firewood log with my 385xp husky to show you guys. I also took pics from a husqvarna tree fellling book that has this style bucking in it, it was free from my dealer, and is a pretty good book.:greenchainsaw:

I didnt know it was called GOL!!!!! LOL!!!!!!

Wheres a pic of that stinking old Dog???????? Eh????

 

[stihl 440]

385

You want a pic of that puppy? LOL I'll get one tomorrow.:greenchainsaw:

 

[huskydave]

I have never used that teqnique but it looks useful in some cases. I try to buck off the ground using smaller logs every couple of feet to support the log and cut straight through if possible or cut halfway, roll the log and finish it off but it all depends. Thank you for posting this is news to me.

 

[hoss]

Nope.

I cut from the top down, and use a wedge to hold the kerf open.

Yup

 

[Erick]

Nope.

I cut from the top down, and use a wedge to hold the kerf open.

Yup

Yup +2

I keep a 5" bucking wedge in my back pocket every time I cut.

 

[RiverRat2]

You want a pic of that puppy? LOL I'll get one tomorrow.:greenchainsaw:

Yeah!!! You show me yours and well,,, Nevermind!!!!! LOLOL!!!!:jester:

 

[slowp]

What about the trees with different bind? I'm cutting blowdown and it looks like I will be for some time, and every tree has to be looked at to see what it will do when I cut on it. I do a lot of notching--cutting little wedges out first.
Most of the blowdown is not level and I'm chunking the stuff up that falls in, over, or partly in the roads.

 

[stihl 440]

here she is.......

Here are a couple cellphone pics of my 385xp husky........:hmm3grin2orange: :chainsawguy:

 

[romeo]

I cut like that when I race in big wood. It takes the fat center out of the equation and cuts quite a bit faster, around 30% faster.


The fun part is doing it in reverse in the up cut. Pull in from the back then level out and come up.