GOL bucking..........

[Bermie]

I use it sometimes if the bar is shorter than the tree is wide...

Mostly though I'll do the reducing cut first (that vertical one on the back side) then start down, bang in a wedge and keep going...
I can relate to the dinged up wedges....!

 

[RiverRat2]

What about the trees with different bind? I'm cutting blowdown and it looks like I will be for some time, and every tree has to be looked at to see what it will do when I cut on it. I do a lot of notching--cutting little wedges out first.
Most of the blowdown is not level and I'm chunking the stuff up that falls in, over, or partly in the roads.

Yep!!!!!! thats gonna hold true slowp no matter what ,,, each blowdown/wind loaded spar must be evaluated individually and carefully address the potential stored energy and the release of that energy in a contoled manner to keep you and your co-workers safe... After the latest round of hurricanes with 150-180 MPH wind gust.... over the last few years I have seen some freakazoid stuff happen,,, ya gotta stay on yer toes and be ever vigilant of your work and surroundings!!!!!

I agree with methodical planned use of wedges to avoid a pinch,,,, plastic Wedges are cheap compared to trashing a 36" reduced weight bar with skip chain!!!!

 

[stihl 440]

loggin'

Yep!!!!!! thats gonna hold true slowp no matter what ,,, each blowdown/wind loaded spar must be evaluated individually and carefully address the potential stored energy and the release of that energy in a contoled manner to keep you and your co-workers safe... After the latest round of hurricanes with 150-180 MPH wind gust.... over the last few years I have seen some freakazoid stuff happen,,, ya gotta stay on yer toes and be ever vigilant of your work and surroundings!!!!!

I agree with methodical planned use of wedges to avoid a pinch,,,, plastic Wedges are cheap compared to trashing a 36" reduced weight bar with skip chain!!!!

Yup, that's why I put this out there. Everyday the forest throws you curve balls that you might need to use this technique to solve, and then you might see that it does actually work if done right in certian situations.:greenchainsaw:

 

[385XP]

STIHL 440 NICE POST NICE SAW. I bought a new 385 in december they are my favorite saw for logging average size trees. I also use that cutting tecnique some times.

 

[stihl 440]

cut

STIHL 440 NICE POST NICE SAW. I bought a new 385 in december they are my favorite saw for logging average size trees. I also use that cutting tecnique some times.

Seems like us east coast guys that use this technique. Although, I seen the one guy on AXMEN using this technique on the landing bucking logs. I also bought my 385 in december.:greenchainsaw:

 

[sILlogger]

nope...i over cut the top cut, and then cut all the way to the other side..if i can't cut it all off i go to the other side

 

[2dogs]

I only have passing knowledge of the GOL but it sounds like they teach good techniques. As long as they say that they are teaching techniques that may not apply in every situation and that they another tool for the tool box then GOL is good to go. If not...


I generally cut down then dog in and cut the back then swing back to the top, bang in a wedge and finish cutting down. This allows me to finish the backing with the far end of the bar and stay back from the log in case it moves. This only works with logs in the 2 1/2 to 4 foot diameter range. Larger than four feet and it is better if someone else bucks the log cause I don't always make a good square cut. If my sharpening skills are off then the saw will sweep right and try to bind. Even with a good sharp and true chain I don't make a good bucker.

Logs smaller than 2 1/2 feet just get a vertical bucking cut and a wedge. It doesn't make sense to try to make a vertical cut with a bar longer than the log is in diameter. Terrain, bind, sweep, limbs, etc all determine how the bucking cut will be made. Every tree is different and needs to be evaluated.

 

[stihl 440]

vertical

I only have passing knowledge of the GOL but it sounds like they teach good techniques. As long as they say that they are teaching techniques that may not apply in every situation and that they another tool for the tool box then GOL is good to go. If not...


I generally cut down then dog in and cut the back then swing back to the top, bang in a wedge and finish cutting down. This allows me to finish the backing with the far end of the bar and stay back from the log in case it moves. This only works with logs in the 2 1/2 to 4 foot diameter range. Larger than four feet and it is better if someone else bucks the log cause I don't always make a good square cut. If my sharpening skills are off then the saw will sweep right and try to bind. Even with a good sharp and true chain I don't make a good bucker.

Logs smaller than 2 1/2 feet just get a vertical bucking cut and a wedge. It doesn't make sense to try to make a vertical cut with a bar longer than the log is in diameter. Terrain, bind, sweep, limbs, etc all determine how the bucking cut will be made. Every tree is different and needs to be evaluated.

You don't have to go all the way vertical. I don't on small logs (under giude bar length) I just get the bar on the other side a little bit then pull her back and proceed with the rest of the cut. On big logs the saw is vertical.:greenchainsaw:

 

[Happyjack]

nice saw!

SI did you bore the face of that tree before you made the back cut?

 

[sILlogger]

nice saw!

SI did you bore the face of that tree before you made the back cut?

if you look at the bottom picture..i bored in from the side and left the "ear" and then walked around the tree so that it would pull it that direction away from the train tracks that i didn't want it to land on-and of coarse the direction it wanted to go. I call this a swing cut..

btw that is a 36" powermatch on my 660

 

[Zodiac45]

Interesting, I've never tried it but I will! I'd say it's in step two (coming round with the nose) that you need to be "aware" for kickback.

 

[sILlogger]

Interesting, I've never tried it but I will! I'd say it's in step two (coming round with the nose) that you need to be "aware" for kickback.

i typically stay dogged in for alot of the way and just work the saw around..i do it alot on push trees and trees that i know that will need to be wedged..get the cut started and drive in wedges as your coming around the tree..you can also get a tree to change direction quite a bit

 

[stihl 440]

log

i typically stay dogged in for alot of the way and just work the saw around..i do it alot on push trees and trees that i know that will need to be wedged..get the cut started and drive in wedges as your coming around the tree..you can also get a tree to change direction quite a bit

I think he might have been talking about the bucking cut....lol:greenchainsaw:

 

[sILlogger]

I think he might have been talking about the bucking cut....lol:greenchainsaw:

umm...yea...i bet he was too...i need a beer!!

 

[stihl 440]

Lol

umm...yea...i bet he was too...i need a beer!!

LOL......+1....lolololololol:greenchainsaw: