Help a noob run a ms361

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wakeboarder3780

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Well I just bought an ms361 from joatmon on this site. Got her in the mail today and i finally learned how to start it up without jerking my arm off (pressing that little black button on the top of the saw in).

I also finally learned how to make the chain start rotating. That little black plastic "guard" on the front, I had to click it towards me (I now realize this is a safety mechanism).

Well anyways I finally got the chain spinning. I noticed however, that a few sparks jumps off the chain / bar area near the bottom. I immediately shut off the saw as I knew I had to have pulled some other bonehead move.

I DO have bar oil in the saw and I had to assemble the bar / chain myself. I tried not to adjust it super tight but not loose either. On the bottom you can see a "sag" where the chain dips down far enough away from the bar that you can see the teeth underneath the chain.

Do I have the chain adjusted too loose/tight? Does it take a bone dry saw a while for the oiler to pick up the new oil? Please let me know your thoughts!
 
Do I have the chain adjusted too loose/tight? Does it take a bone dry saw a while for the oiler to pick up the new oil? Please let me know your thoughts!

Yes! your chain is on too loose most likely. On modern sprocket nose bars you should have the chain just snug enough so that it moves freely by hand. No sag.

Be very careful, it sounds like you are new to saws and maybe need to read up on the details of saw maintenance and safety.
You have lots of time to do that if you go slow and safe.

Welcome to the site!:cheers:
 
Dealer

If you have a dealer nearby i think you should hit him up on a chance to learn how to run your saw. Not tryin to be too mean but the way you worded your post i dont think you would have enough work or know how to run a saw like the 361. Please forgive me if i am wrong or missed something, but this is how i feel.
 
"On the bottom you can see a "sag" where the chain dips down far enough away from the bar that you can see the teeth underneath the chain."
---------------
That chain is too loose. Start there and make sure you use bar and chain oil. The "safety mechanism" is called a chain brake.

Please read the owners manual, front to back--carefully. Don't skim over it like a dunce. TIA
 
Whenever I tighten my chains, they are so tight you can just barely pull it away from the bottom of the bar.

Keep the chain tight, or else it will whip out towards your leg if derailed. Like everyone said, read the owners manual carfully and I would go to my local stihl dealer to get a run-down of the saw. stay safe
 
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Do I have the chain adjusted too loose/tight?

Yes, it's too loose.. follow the Stihl link above, I believe it will tell you how to properly tension the chain. Also, if you DON'T have a users manual, go the the Stihl website and download one for your saw, it's available for free on the site.

As for the chain, it should be tensioned so that it does NOT sag, but is tight along the top and bottom, and when pulled away from the bar it should "snap" back onto the bar and be able to move freely in the bar groove.

A lot of newbies have a tendency to leave the chain WAY too loose...

Hope that helps some.. but really, if you don't know what you're doing with the saw, PLEASE ask someone to show you how to use it properly so that you become familiar with the safety and operating procedures. The manual will cover most of it.
 
Russ,

I have the manual for that saw and I'll put in the package I'm sending tomorrow.

Jack
 
Whenever I tighten my chains, they are so tight you can just barely pull it away from the bottom of the bar.

That is way too tight...

To tighten a chain, you need to loosen the bar nuts and then hold up on the end of the bar while you turn the adjuster screw. When the chain touches the bottom of the bar rail and no drive links are showing... it's done. Now here is where you need 3 hands... keep holding up the end of the bar while you tighten the bar nuts.

If you don't do this... the first few cuts you make will make the chain slack again...

The only time I tighten a chain a tad more is when it is on a long bar... say, 36" or more. But I don't over do it...

Gary
 
I'll read the manual in full and I'm sure I'll be fine. I'm a software developer, I learn everything about new technologies strictly from documentation. I'm not THAT much of a noob that I need to have someone *show* me how to run it. Just because I don't know the technical terms (compression release valve, drive links, etc) doesn't mean I can't figure it out myself. I figured out a lot about how to run it today just by myself in a short manner of time. It's not like I trashed the saw or anything..

Anyways, thanks for the advice and links to the documentation. I'll read it in full and I'll be fine.

EDIT: Thanks joat, always good to have a hard copy :D Also, the saw was in absolutely great condition. A shout of thanks out to joat for working with me on the saw :cheers:
 
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That is way too tight...

To tighten a chain, you need to loosen the bar nuts and then hold up on the end of the bar while you turn the adjuster screw. When the chain touches the bottom of the bar rail and no drive links are showing... it's done. Now here is where you need 3 hands... keep holding up the end of the bar while you tighten the bar nuts.

If you don't do this... the first few cuts you make will make the chain slack again...

The only time I tighten a chain a tad more is when it is on a long bar... say, 36" or more. But I don't over do it...

Gary


What Gary said. Plus-- before I put a clean (or new) bar on the saw, I use an oil can with some 30 wt in it to run a small bead all around the channel. Then my chain goes on. So the guide links are all nice and gooey from the git-go.
 
I'll read the manual in full and I'm sure I'll be fine. I'm a software developer, I learn everything about new technologies strictly from documentation. I'm not THAT much of a noob that I need to have someone *show* me how to run it. Just because I don't know the technical terms (compression release valve, drive links, etc) doesn't mean I can't figure it out myself. I figured out a lot about how to run it today just by myself in a short manner of time. It's not like I trashed the saw or anything..

Anyways, thanks for the advice and links to the documentation. I'll read it in full and I'll be fine.

EDIT: Thanks joat, always good to have a hard copy :D Also, the saw was in absolutely great condition. A shout of thanks out to joat for working with me on the saw :cheers:

Please for your own safety Wear some chaps, and a hard hat. Safety glasses and hearing protection also.

Most all of us use PPE regardless of level of experience. The cost is a whole lot cheaper than a visit to the ER, and time lost from work. Not to mention permanent disability and or Death.
 
Please for your own safety Wear some chaps, and a hard hat. Safety glasses and hearing protection also.

Most all of us use PPE regardless of level of experience. The cost is a whole lot cheaper than a visit to the ER, and time lost from work. Not to mention permanent disability and or Death.

Chaps and hard hat with faceshield and ear muffs are on the way from labonville :D Thanks for the plea of person safety though. It's always good to put safety first! My dad has never worn chaps but I'm trying to get him to consider it. Baby steps.
 

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