Help with 272 XP please. ***updated with pics***
- Thread starter LiftedBlackHD
- Start date
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cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like the piston is scored and melted aluminum has been transfered from the piston to the cylinder walls. As the saw cooled down from running, the cylinder shrank and seized up. You will need (at a minimum) to pull the cylinder, see if you can removed the transfered aluminum, and replace the piston. You will also need to determine and fix what caused the condition of lean seize. My first guess is an air leak somewhere which caused the suck excess air and messed up your fuel mix. There are many threads here about changing the piston and cleaning the cylinder.
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
Bummer dude 
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you do not have any experience with this procedure:
1) Go to the "beg for manuals" thread in the "stickies" section and ask for the Shop Manual and illustrated parts list for your saw.
2) Search this forum for piston replacement threads and do some reading.
3) This can be done with normal hand tools for the most part. Post pics and let the kind folks here help you through it. Read up on cleaning the cylinder. You must get all the aluminum off. This can be done chemically(muratic acid) or mechanically with a Dremel tool or jewelers grinder.
1) Go to the "beg for manuals" thread in the "stickies" section and ask for the Shop Manual and illustrated parts list for your saw.
2) Search this forum for piston replacement threads and do some reading.
3) This can be done with normal hand tools for the most part. Post pics and let the kind folks here help you through it. Read up on cleaning the cylinder. You must get all the aluminum off. This can be done chemically(muratic acid) or mechanically with a Dremel tool or jewelers grinder.
LiftedBlackHD
ArboristSite Member
I bought it used from CL. It was pretty beat up when I bought it. It leaks oil/fuel. There are two bolts in the back of the carb that vibrate loose and cause it to suck in air. I'm guessing I need a new carb too.
What carb/P &C kit do you guys recomned? I see several on Ebay but the price varies from $30 to $200. While I'm in there, what else should I change/upgrade?
What carb/P &C kit do you guys recomned? I see several on Ebay but the price varies from $30 to $200. While I'm in there, what else should I change/upgrade?
I usually take the entire saw into account. If it's clapped out and all you want is to get it running again, then go with something cheaper. If she's a prom queen then treat it right. You can't go wrong with NWP, Hyway or Meteor if going new. Used OEM would be best though and don't forget to invest in seals, filters and rubber.
LiftedBlackHD
ArboristSite Member
Do the kits come with all the necessary seals?
Depends on the kit, some do, some don't.
I've seen worse, pull the cylinder after doing a vac- pressure test. These cylinders are tough, you may get away with a new piston and some other minor parts.
Sleepy
Grumpy Old Man
OEM might be cheaper than you expect.
LiftedBlackHD
ArboristSite Member
Turns out the rod bearings were toast as well. Traded it in on a 365 with a new 372 top end! Very pleased.
