Help with 35t Huskee

[flewism]

I'd also look deeper into this. If you choose to bail and replace it that is your choice, you might end up there anyway. There is a lot of information available on these engines. Idenify the models # will help everybody give advice, this site will help with that.

How to Locate Briggs and Stratton Model Numbers

 

[subhunter]

I have looked all over to try and find the model # and other info. Now I aint the sharpest tool in the shed but I cant find it anywhere. I know its the 12.5hp OHV I/C.
Same exact engine as this,

Small Engine Warehouse: 219802-0117 - Briggs

I am going to try and pull the head tomorrow and see what I can find.

 

[K.C.]

Agreed - I think you have carbon build-up under the exhaust valve. You may see it moving in/out but you can't tell if it's sealing from outside. One easy trick if you have or can make an adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and have a compressor (or even a manual tire pump) is to move the piston untill both valves are in the closed position, ideally with piston at bottom dead center then pressurize the cylinder with air. You will hear the air escaping from wherever the leak is.

 

[subhunter]

Agreed - One easy trick if you have or can make an adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and have a compressor (or even a manual tire pump) is to move the piston untill both valves are in the closed position, ideally with piston at bottom dead center then pressurize the cylinder with air. You will hear the air escaping from wherever the leak is.

I did not know that. I will give it a try. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Buckethead]

Agreed - I think you have carbon build-up under the exhaust valve. You may see it moving in/out but you can't tell if it's sealing from outside. One easy trick if you have or can make an adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and have a compressor (or even a manual tire pump) is to move the piston untill both valves are in the closed position, ideally with piston at bottom dead center then pressurize the cylinder with air. You will hear the air escaping from wherever the leak is.

+1:good:

I recently had the very same problem with the B&S engine on my generator and diagnosed it the same way. I pulled it apart and, for the cost of a head gasket, was able to clean the carbon from the exhaust valve. It now runs like a top again.

 

[subhunter]

Today I got to pull the top off. It was really dirty and carbon was built up. I cleaned it up with either and it seems like the valves are sealing. Now I am stuck on one thing, the two push rods that were under the valves, one is an 1/8 " shorter than the other. When I pulled it apart they just kinda fell out and I have no clue as to which one goes where. Any help??
Some pix

After:

I outlined where I think the rods go but am not sure?

THANKS AGAIN GUYS! Hopefully this machine will run again soon.

 

[K.C.]

OK, try this... Rotate the crank by pulling the rope and watch down in the galley to see which "pockets" are moving up & down. That'll show you where the pushrods go. As to long vs short pushrods, without looking at a manual I would say to turn the head over and look to see if the intake (smaller valve) or the exhaust (larger valve) have any height differences where the pushrods would fit. I would assume there is a rocker arm between the valve stem and pushrod (most likely with an adjuster on the valve stem side).

Kinda hard to tell from the pix, but it looks like the intake valve is "deeper" in the head than the exhaust (that is, the exhaust valve looks to be closer to the piston top) so my guess would be the longer pushrod goes to the intake since it is higher up. I may very well be incorrect so if you want to post a pic of the top of the head as you would view from the side it might help!

Really cool that you got in there and cleaned it up! Ether is really dangerous stuff - really explosive so please be careful with it! Some straight "SeaFoam" or CRC Brake cleaner would probably work just as well and would be alot safer. After seeing those photos I'm wondering if runing some SeaFoam in these motors might not be a bad idea!

 

[subhunter]

Thanks for the reply. I hope to try and get it put back together tomorrow. To be honest though I try to run some sea foam through my OPE fairly often. I did however lack the frequent oil changes and using synthetic oil. I hope using syn will help.
The either I use for everything. Best hand cleaner money can buy IMO

 

[WetBehindtheEar]

Nice job, man. Looks like you don't even have to put a new head gasket on - or is that a new one?

Yeah, I know... why not put a new one on if the thing is already apart...

And I think you've GOTTA be able to find an illustrated parts list or exploded diagram SOMEWHERE online.

I know - you can't find the model number of the engine.... Think Huskee might have a reference somewhere?

Congrats again.

 

[subhunter]

Yea it sux that I cant find the model. I swear I have looked this thing over several times and dont see any #'s any where. I am hoping I can just figure it out as this is my first engine to really pop open beside my saws.

 

[Frank Boyer]

Take some alcohol/solvent and fill the head. That will check to see if the valves are sealing. If liquid passes through the valves then do a valve job. You can remove the valves and clean them up and see if that helps.

 

[K.C.]

Here's a couple of links that may help you. They are for an engine that is probably larger than yours but the B&S engines don't stray too far from each other!

briggs and stratton push rod and head torque - Tech Support Forum

http://www.tarleton.edu/~mcgregor/A%20EN%202013/2013%20Labs/Reassembly/OHV.Reassembly.ppt

 

[GeeVee]

Since the valves are two different size heads, isn't that dicatting where the valve should be and aligning the stems down those holes should just fall into place?

I was going to claim carbon build-up and non-seating valves too.

I like PB Blaster brand de-carbonizing spray you use when its running. Stinky as can be but probably works okay.

The pics were especially helpful.

I think you'll be better off doing as much as you can to repair the one you have. A lesson learned gives you confidence for the future, and money in your pocket.

The alternative is a missed opportunity learning with small four strokes- less money on hand.

You really don't have much to lose working on a broken motor, if you mess it up, it was already broken anyway.

(It aint a Toyota 4 cylinder with FI and A/C, they're not fun to work on.)

GeeVee

 

[kgreer]

manual for engine and splitter

If you can tell me what the model# of the splitter is I can get you a manual for the engine and the owner's manual. Also, can get you the Briggs engine#.

Thanks

Kevin@speeco

 

[John R]

Well, it it running yet?

 

[subhunter]

Got it running today! I must say that AS has a very helpful community!
I would have never known the valves could be carboned up so bad it wouldnt run.
It was not as hard as I thought it would be.
AGAIN GUYS THANKS A MILLION!!

 

[John R]

Got it running today!

Good Job!!!!!

 

[subhunter]

Needless to say I was a very happy man

 

[K.C.]

Good Job!!! It is really a great feeling when you can work through something like this on your own. Yes, this forum is a wonderful community, and is only made better by folks such as yourself and all the others that contributed to help solve this problem. Rock On!

 

[flewism]

Good job to work it through, and with a positive outcome to boot.
Now why? 4 year old engine, excessive carbon buildup = incomplete combustion. Is it running rich? With today's crappy fuels, sounds like time for a tune up, plug, carb cleaning or adjustment, air filter minimum.