Could anyone give me their experiences with these splitters.Could you give me any recommendations.
Looking to spend about 300 or so and was looking at ryobi.
Will be cutting all types of wood.
First year about 3 cords then it will be about a cord or so a year.
Thanks Bob
Could anyone give me their experiences with these splitters.Could you give me any recommendations.
Looking to spend about 300 or so and was looking at ryobi.
Will be cutting all types of wood.
First year about 3 cords then it will be about a cord or so a year.
Thanks Bob
Have any specific ones in mind? I doubt you would be satisfied with anything down in the $300 range. Yes, they will split wood, slowly. If it does not have a motor of some type on it, the work you will do pumping on a handle will be more than you would expend with an ax/wedge/sledge/mual.
For your amount of wood, manual splitting is all you need unless you want a splitter for bragging rights and there is nothing wrong with that.
the stickler is a cone shaped splitter that mounts to an car or truck wheel and .. you are sure to get hurt/ mamed / or killed with it.... do a search onlind for stickler wood splitter and watch the video.... now a real wood splitter.. Agway has a nice 5.5 horse honda moter with a 27ton piston on it and a nice strong Ibeam chassis... but it is 1500 bucks... I am getting one for my father a I have shopped around and couldent even get a 5 hourse brigs moter with 20 ton piston for that.
I have used the sledge/wedge technique for many years on more cords than I can count.
Keeping the wedge sharp is the key as I see it.
That way the wedge gets a good bite in the end of the log. Then it is just a matter of tapping it in. Note: I didn't say banging it in as it really doesn't take a great deal of force to drive the wedge into the log.
If you look at the cross section of the log there will often be what looks like the start of a split. That's where you want to place the wedge. If the wedge gets buried completely into the log before it splits then use a second (sometimes even a third) wedge keeping the split line as straight as possible.
I also use a hatchet and axe because sometime the wood (my black cherry for example) has some kind of wood that attaches to both sides of the split log. I'm not sure if this is what is called cross-grain. However the hatchet or axe easily separates this. It is good exercise and not too hard to do. One of the keys is to have a nice hard flat spot on which to set the log being split. They tend to fall over and you have to stand them back up for the next tap on the wedge. You don't need a gorilla sledge either. An 8# or 10# head is sufficient. I split most logs into quarters unless it is a very big log. Split the log in half and then the halves in half. The smaller the diameter of the piece the easier/faster the splitting is.
If you are ever in the neighborhood stop by and we can split some wood. Then we can split a six-pack of Guiness!!!
