i'm working on a homelite 150 and can't even get at the carb. what is the best way to get the small phillips screws off the handle and the 2 on the bottom so i can shuck this clam? do i need to get out the torch? when i get these out i'm gonna replace them.
homelite 150 ?s
- Thread starter kev1n
- Start date
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lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't take the handle apart! The philips heads hold the fuel tank together. Unless the tank is leaking, best not to touch it.
Kyle has a great scanned IPL for 150s here that'll help :
http://www.edgeandengine.com/webstore/downloads/homelite/150.pdf
The engine slides out of the housing on the clutch side. Two bolts on top, two on the bottom, and make sure to remove the two bolts in the air filter opening that secure the carb to the manifold or it can break. Slide the engine out and the carb will remain sitting inside the housing. Reach in and remove the carb's fuel line, pull the two bushings from the air filter opening that hold the carb and finally twist the carb free from the choke and throttle linkages.
Dan
Kyle has a great scanned IPL for 150s here that'll help :
http://www.edgeandengine.com/webstore/downloads/homelite/150.pdf
The engine slides out of the housing on the clutch side. Two bolts on top, two on the bottom, and make sure to remove the two bolts in the air filter opening that secure the carb to the manifold or it can break. Slide the engine out and the carb will remain sitting inside the housing. Reach in and remove the carb's fuel line, pull the two bushings from the air filter opening that hold the carb and finally twist the carb free from the choke and throttle linkages.
Dan
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's a great quality scan from Kyle. Really grown fond of 150s over the past few years. They're uniquely constructed, but once you've played with a couple, you can tear into one pretty fast.
Think the hardest part for myself was reconnecting the throttle and choke linkage when putting the carb back in. I've found its best to slide the choke all the way forward, connect it first, then angle it so the throttle linkage can connect, and connect the fuel line last. More than once than once I've forgotten the gasket between the carb and the housing. Ask away if you hit any snags along the way.
Dan
Think the hardest part for myself was reconnecting the throttle and choke linkage when putting the carb back in. I've found its best to slide the choke all the way forward, connect it first, then angle it so the throttle linkage can connect, and connect the fuel line last. More than once than once I've forgotten the gasket between the carb and the housing. Ask away if you hit any snags along the way.
Dan
volks-man
Arboristsite.com Spooner
post some pics of this thing as you go....
it may help me out if i ever get to my personal 150 project.
as i have never actually seen the inside of one of these little saws i'll take all the info i can get.
Great info here. I'm going to need it trying to get this thing apart (no sparky). Just picked it up this week, looks to be in good shape.
And wondering how kev1n is doing with his?
And wondering how kev1n is doing with his?
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Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Just sold one 3 weeks ago, still have 3 of them, including one in its original case with the manual. Ugly enough to be cute.
It's good to see this thread is helping someone get a 150 apart, there like a rubic's cube if you don't know it slides out sideways. Getting the choke hooked up is the toughest part. I gave up on fixing my 150s and stole the rebuild kit out of the carb for another saw. I might get back to them someday unless someone wants a parts saw for free.
That sure is a nice looking 150 you have there!
Kevin
That sure is a nice looking 150 you have there!
Kevin
Might have to take you up on that, now I've GOT to see why I have no spark so I can be looking for parts if need be.
So far, I'll have to give the Homelite 150 the award for being the toughest saw to work on that I've seen...slightly edges out the Mini-Mac. A saw should never be designed so that you have to practically take the whole saw apart to rebuild the carburetor. An XL or Super 2 is a little better because it's so easy to remove the engine, although in the same category.
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lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Most probably just needs the points cleaned. Its cake to remove the engine from the housing, just remember to remove the two bolts under the air cover that attaches to the manifold. I've yet to make a puller for flywheels on 150s... always have good luck using a wooden block and knocking it loose. Remember the threads on the special nut that holds the flywheel is left handed. You have a very nice saw... looks hardly used at all!
Dan
Dan
blackoak
Addicted to ArboristSite
The hardest part is putting it back together. The damned choke linkage is a real PITA to get connected. I have come real close to launching a few 150's trying to get the choke hooked back up.
Ozzie
ArboristSite Member
150 Spark Issue
My sons 150 spark issue turned out to be the condensor. Swapped one from a another 150 and had good spark.
If you are only replacing the carb diaphragms, there's no need to remove it. It will turn enough while still hooked to the linkages to get to the diaphragms.
Very nice saw you have. hard to believe anything is wrong with it.
My sons 150 spark issue turned out to be the condensor. Swapped one from a another 150 and had good spark.
If you are only replacing the carb diaphragms, there's no need to remove it. It will turn enough while still hooked to the linkages to get to the diaphragms.
Very nice saw you have. hard to believe anything is wrong with it.
That choke linkage is the worst, I had to redo one 3 times to get it right. I should have examined it better before I took it apart. A long needle nose pliars and 3 hands makes it a little easier. I have one that somebody was running the wrong bar and chain combo. It pulled the bar into the clutch and blew up the clutch, shattered the clutch cover, bent the crank. I'm still amazed at the damage when I look at it. Whoever did this probably soiled there drawers if they survived.
I believe the ignition parts are good if you end up needing some.
Kevin
I believe the ignition parts are good if you end up needing some.
Kevin
On some of the saws it's good to have one of those extended magnet thingys. I've used them before putting in linkages, etc.
Finished it, turned out great, it was a points issue with this saw.
Start by removing the top two screws,
and bottom two screws, already missing,
remove the wrap handle and these two screws holding the carb in,
Start by removing the top two screws,
and bottom two screws, already missing,
remove the wrap handle and these two screws holding the carb in,
then it slides out leaving the carb in the housing.
It worked better if I removed the mixture needles and idle speed scew prior to taking the carb out of the housing, clean the carb, then reinstalling the needles after putting the carb back in place.
Sleeves hold the carb in place while in this location.
This is why I automatically carb kit every one of my "new" saws, corrosion city.
Hope this helps someone disassemble their 150, I really felt it was fairly simple with the provided info. This little saw runs very nice and strong for its size, although it could use some antivibe. I'm keeping my eyes open for another.
It worked better if I removed the mixture needles and idle speed scew prior to taking the carb out of the housing, clean the carb, then reinstalling the needles after putting the carb back in place.
Sleeves hold the carb in place while in this location.
This is why I automatically carb kit every one of my "new" saws, corrosion city.
Hope this helps someone disassemble their 150, I really felt it was fairly simple with the provided info. This little saw runs very nice and strong for its size, although it could use some antivibe. I'm keeping my eyes open for another.
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huskydriver
ArboristSite Lurker
I just got aa 150 today for $1 it needs a new pull rope before I can even try it.View attachment 174397
