Homelite 330 for sale?

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Years ago I bought a new Homelite 330. It was awful. It couldn't go more than 2 tankfuls without having something break and had to be taken to the dealer for repair. Now, after discovering this site, I keep reading posts that they were good saws???? Does anyone have one that they would like to sell, so that I could try and find out what I was doing wrong. I admit that back then, I didn't know as much about saws as I do now.

I bought it because I had been using an old Homelite XL that took abuse and would NOT die, and finally disintegrated in my hands. The 330 was a huge disappointment. After the 330, I went to Stihl.
 
Those things are all over and don't bring much. I would not run a used one much nowdays without putting a new carb boot and lines on it as your flirting with disaster without it.

I have one left here and it runs good, but I won't use it before doing just that. Thing is the boot and lines cost just about what one will bring on ebay.

If the oilers work there not too bad of a old saw.
 
I had one and I also did what Mark said above. The saw didn't run when I got it so I had heard that the carb boot was a problem. So I did that, fuel lines, filters, and plug. DO the boot! I started mine w/the old boot(thought it was good) and it revved so high the ign switch wouldn't work to kill it! I had to choke it off, was lucky I didn't grenade the engine!
 
I had one and I also did what Mark said above. The saw didn't run when I got it so I had heard that the carb boot was a problem. So I did that, fuel lines, filters, and plug. DO the boot! I started mine w/the old boot(thought it was good) and it revved so high the ign switch wouldn't work to kill it! I had to choke it off, was lucky I didn't grenade the engine!

I had the same experiance with one also. Had it clamped in a vise, didnt know the boot was torn and I primed it to try to get it started.

Well it started alright and went to like wide open and stayed there.

Tried the switch but it wasnt working, tried the choke and that didnt do anything to slow it down. Finally got the plug wire off of it to kill it.

How it was drawing fuel while it was drawing air from under the carb through the broken boot kinda surprised me.
 
I laugh at seller ads for them on ebay and craig's list: usually "last of the metal homelites".

I have a couple here...I had one given to me while at school, and made some money selling firewood with it. Oilers suck. No anti-vibe, and the clutch covers crack. And rear handles too.

But they sold pretty cheap when they were new, so what can we really expect? Same price point as the McC 610 Timber Bear, and some people think the world of them, too...until they get their hands on a Husky, Stihl, etc.
 
i had one as my first saw was a good little saw i have it someware around Will look over the weekend nothing ever broke or cracked it would be still in good cond Will post photos tomorrow
whether it still goes would be the question?

Im quite shocked that people had a bad opinion of them
 
I have one of those for sale right now. I used it for awhile and didn't have a problem with it. Good little saw in my opinion.
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I have had mine on CL a couple times for the same amount and not even a call.

I also listed it on Ebay and I can't remember what I started it at, but I think it was $25-30 with $20 shipping and not 1 bid on it.

So here is the deal, it runs fine but I won't run it because I don't trust it as the fuel lines are getting soft and in my mind that tells me the boot isnt far behind either.

If I spend $30-$40 dollars on it to line, boot and kit the carb, is that a wise investment?

I don't think so.
 
Yeah my carb was fine and the boot was excellant. All I did was replace the fuel line and filter. I have ran it and cut a load of wood with it and have had no problems with it. I have 6 saws for sale now, trying to thin the herd some.
 
I used it for awhile and didn't have a problem with it. Good little saw in my opinion.

Some people have good luck with them, and if their use level is lower, they have every right to say so.

330 sold for about $200 in 1980; for $120 more you could get a Husky 55 that would hold up 3 times as long. Or more.

The Homelite's chrome cylinder/cast rings and loose needle bearing rod will require 32:1, and likely never make it past 200 hours. One of mine used up the original bar and one replacement, as well as about 12 chains before compression fell so low it didn't have the power to work effectively: no siezing, just used up. Part of the problem might be the poor air filter seal.

By that time there was no paint, no decals, and the clutch cover had been replaced once. When the handle cracked, I decided not to keep milking more use out of it.

Was I overusing it? Perhaps, but that;s the difference bewteen a consumer product and a professional tool, I think.
 
i got mine new in 1988 It was my first new saw i used it for 5 years it never missed a beat wore out 1 and half bars with it doin firewood, Then put it away,
I allways wanted a P41 pioneer lol

Till today put some fuel in it and away she went for a few seconds lol fuel lines turned to jelly and a air leak but it still looks ok and still a tidy saw I will see what it costs to fix it Ive never ever pulled anythin off it
 
i got mine new in 1988 It was my first new saw i used it for 5 years it never missed a beat wore out 1 and half bars with it doin firewood, Then put it away,
I allways wanted a P41 pioneer lol

Till today put some fuel in it and away she went for a few seconds lol fuel lines turned to jelly and a air leak but it still looks ok and still a tidy saw I will see what it costs to fix it Ive never ever pulled anythin off it

If you like the saw and plan on keeping it, the cost of repair isn't really a big issue.

The thing is there just a big enough PITA you don't want to tear into it later for something else inside the housings that you can change now.

I wont tear into one without doing it all at once. Things to replace are

carb boot, fuel line, tank duckbill valve, both impulse lines, oil line from tank, oil line from pump to bar pad, and then you might as well replace the crank seals while you got it apart also.

You will probably want to do the carb diaphragms also and more then likely you will need a top carb cover seal also.

To do it right you do end up with quite a bit into it. If your keeping it and useing it I can see the trouble and expense, if a guy is going to fix it to sell, your wasting your money and time for what they bring.
 
I don't feel the power is there for these fellers. Don't get me wrong, they would be a great homeowner saw that cuts around 2-3 cord a year but I don't think they would handle any more than that.
 
I don't feel the power is there for these fellers. Don't get me wrong, they would be a great homeowner saw that cuts around 2-3 cord a year but I don't think they would handle any more than that.

I don't know, its 50+ cc and should have plenty of power. I opened muffler up on mine and its pretty stout. Problem I have is with the oiler. Doesn't seem to want to oil.
bob
 
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