I finally got around to checking for spark in my homelite 360 ; it has none. Should I order the part on the plug the pickup that it mounts to on the saw or both. I would also like to know what these parts are called in a homelite parts book. thankyou
Homelite 360 has no spark
- Thread starter MOE
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Hi Moe, I believe the parts your talking about are the transformer # A-12299-A and the transformer receptacle #A-70088. I would contact Bill W on this forum.He would know about parts availability and costs.
Ray
Ray
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi Moe,
Just a few suggestions you may want to try before buying new parts ('cause they ain't cheap!). One online store I know sells the 12669AS module and they want $48.95. You can get these from time to time on ebay, but its hit and miss whether someone else wants them more than you.
First, make sure the air gap is correct between the module and the flywheel. I don't have the book in front of me, but I think its like .015 - .025" or so. I think I remember someone saying most match books are about the right thickness. I don't smoke, so I usually check the book and use a non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Secondly, if you have a multimeter, test all wires between the module, kill switch, and transformer receptacle to make sure there's no breaks. Also, look for any skinned wires that may be shorting to ground. Fixes here are a lot cheaper than module and transformer replacement.
Third, make sure the kill switch hasn't failed and is shorting to ground. You can do this by simply pulling the wire lead (and make sure its not touching any metal).
If all these steps check out, you may get some idea if the transformer is good with a multimeter. The transformer is just two windings of coil wire, one a primary and one a secondary with a common tie point at one of the connection points. Important things are that neither winding is broken (infinite resistance), and that the windings aren't shorted to each other. If you have a meter that measures resistance, let me know and I'll try to walk you through a test for it.
Best of luck,
Dan
Just a few suggestions you may want to try before buying new parts ('cause they ain't cheap!). One online store I know sells the 12669AS module and they want $48.95. You can get these from time to time on ebay, but its hit and miss whether someone else wants them more than you.
First, make sure the air gap is correct between the module and the flywheel. I don't have the book in front of me, but I think its like .015 - .025" or so. I think I remember someone saying most match books are about the right thickness. I don't smoke, so I usually check the book and use a non-magnetic feeler gauge.
Secondly, if you have a multimeter, test all wires between the module, kill switch, and transformer receptacle to make sure there's no breaks. Also, look for any skinned wires that may be shorting to ground. Fixes here are a lot cheaper than module and transformer replacement.
Third, make sure the kill switch hasn't failed and is shorting to ground. You can do this by simply pulling the wire lead (and make sure its not touching any metal).
If all these steps check out, you may get some idea if the transformer is good with a multimeter. The transformer is just two windings of coil wire, one a primary and one a secondary with a common tie point at one of the connection points. Important things are that neither winding is broken (infinite resistance), and that the windings aren't shorted to each other. If you have a meter that measures resistance, let me know and I'll try to walk you through a test for it.
Best of luck,
Dan
David_T (MO)
ArboristSite Lurker
Before tearing into the saw, try a shot of starter fluid and give her a pull. If she fires you may have a ripped rubber carb throat. (Happened to me.) $10 fix.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Moe,
Not sure if you've found the problem yet, but in any case here's some pics showing typical reading from an ohm-meter for the transformer. Maybe this will help a bit. There's 3 pics showing all combination between the contact locations.
Dan
Not sure if you've found the problem yet, but in any case here's some pics showing typical reading from an ohm-meter for the transformer. Maybe this will help a bit. There's 3 pics showing all combination between the contact locations.
Dan
Thanks, that will help a lot. I hate buying parts to replace perfectly good parts. this saw looks pretty clean and like it hasn't seen a whole lot of use. Is it worth dropping $50-$75 into it for igniton and carb parts? Are these good saws? How big of a bar will they pull in hard dead wood? I would like to make this a firewood saw. I also have an old homelite C-9 I want to get running again.
Nice meter Dan. That is one of the better ones we used at work.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Moe,
I love the 350/360 Homelites, but that's my personal opinion. Many may feel the saw is too heavy for its power and not comparable to modern saws. The largest bar I've used is a 20" and the saw will pull these no problems. Cut up a pecan tree last fall that was blown over in a storm with no trouble. I've heard a 24" is about the limit, and I'd imagine that in hard wood this might be a little large. My father and I used a 350 with a 16" bar for over 10 years cutting firewood and the saw still works great. If you don't need to use it immediately, keep your eyes on eBay. The parts are popping up from time to time and you may get a good deal. Problem is though it may take a while.
Ray,
Yea Fluke is a great meter. For the money though I'm a little disappointed with the LCD display. Have to view at just the right angle or segments are fuzzy. I got it a few years ago when I needed something to measure capacitance. My philosophy is that its better to invest money into a good tool than to pay someone else to fix things for me. A good multi-meter is useful for so many things. Looking back, I probably would have been just as well off with one from Radio Shack, but the Fluke is built solid.
Dan
I love the 350/360 Homelites, but that's my personal opinion. Many may feel the saw is too heavy for its power and not comparable to modern saws. The largest bar I've used is a 20" and the saw will pull these no problems. Cut up a pecan tree last fall that was blown over in a storm with no trouble. I've heard a 24" is about the limit, and I'd imagine that in hard wood this might be a little large. My father and I used a 350 with a 16" bar for over 10 years cutting firewood and the saw still works great. If you don't need to use it immediately, keep your eyes on eBay. The parts are popping up from time to time and you may get a good deal. Problem is though it may take a while.
Ray,
Yea Fluke is a great meter. For the money though I'm a little disappointed with the LCD display. Have to view at just the right angle or segments are fuzzy. I got it a few years ago when I needed something to measure capacitance. My philosophy is that its better to invest money into a good tool than to pay someone else to fix things for me. A good multi-meter is useful for so many things. Looking back, I probably would have been just as well off with one from Radio Shack, but the Fluke is built solid.
Dan
Dan the fluke that measures capacitance is an 80 series meter like the 83 or 87.That's what I really wanted but wouldn't cough up over $200.
Moe, Did you try Bill W?
Moe, Did you try Bill W?
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi Ray,
The 79 measures capacitance also. See the emblem in yellow on the same location as for resistance. Press the yellow select button to select capacitance. Measures frequency also.
Dan
The 79 measures capacitance also. See the emblem in yellow on the same location as for resistance. Press the yellow select button to select capacitance. Measures frequency also.
Dan
Dan, That's slick.We didn't use the 79. We used the 73,75,77 and 83 models.
Only our 83 checked caps.
Only our 83 checked caps.
Ray, I haven't had a chance to put my multi meter on the igntion yet, I hope to do it in the next day or two then I'll start calling for parts. Is it usually the part on the plug that goes bad? The more I learn about these older saws, the more interesting they become to me. I've seen some pics of restored saws on here. If I get this 360 running good I'm going to tear into the C-9 that I have and make it run and look like new,(or at least better than it looks now).
