Hot water heater has odd connections

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It probably does shorten the life I suppose but something about the water in northwest ohio reacts with the anode and produces the smell. It's not just me either. Every plumber in the area removes the rod. Lately alot of people have gone to the all plastic hwh (electric). I have one of the plastic ones and they are cool. Local electric company gives a killer deal if you get one from them and they put a box on it to shut it off by computer to lower peak demands when needed. I've had mine for about 5 years now and I've only known it to be off twice.
 
When I installed my new water heater I replaced the anode with a new Zinc one that I got from the manufacturer. Evidently the Aluminum ones react with water softeners and makes a bad smell (It may be the other way around). Removing the anode is not a safety issue....but is certainly a move that will affect the life of the water heater. If the anode was not something that was necessary......you can be sure the factory would have left it out and saved some money. The anode is sacrificial and it corrodes and prevents the water heater from corroding......and the anode should be replaced periodically......I know that most people never replace and anode....which explains why most water heaters don't last very long.

Here is a link for anodes:

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html
 
That's a good idea, I just looked at the picture again and could do that fairly easily. I was going for smoothest flow of hot water in and out of the sidearm (thus all 45 degree elbows on the bottom etc) I'm used to designing dust collection systems and hate 90 degree elbows :) With how hot this water gets a little more resistance might not matter. The T&P stem is in the flow just not all of it I guess....I sized that extra nipple so the stem is just off the wall of the T so it's getting almost the whole flow of the 3/4" hot water line but your right, the stem isn't getting flow over it's entire length...that nipple does get hot though, have it insulated as well.

Slick:

I would suggest that you move your Sidearm line to the side of the tank nipple (remove the additional one you put on) and put your T&P straight into the tank. You want that probe sticking into the flow of water - not off the side where it isn't part of the system.
 
Slick:

I work for a few small cities and do water main and sewage force main design frequently......and I understand what a big restriction a sharp bend can be.

The velocity of flow through the sidearm is really slow I bet......a 90 bend isn't going to be much of a restriction at all.
 
When I installed my new water heater I replaced the anode with a new Zinc one that I got from the manufacturer. Evidently the Aluminum ones react with water softeners and makes a bad smell (It may be the other way around). Removing the anode is not a safety issue....but is certainly a move that will affect the life of the water heater. If the anode was not something that was necessary......you can be sure the factory would have left it out and saved some money. The anode is sacrificial and it corrodes and prevents the water heater from corroding......and the anode should be replaced periodically......I know that most people never replace and anode....which explains why most water heaters don't last very long.

Here is a link for anodes:

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

Yep.

It is recommended a house with a water softener check the anode every six months. Replace as necessary.
 
Last night I removed the Anode that has been in since May of 2007. I have a water softener and I replaced the original aluminum anode with a magnesium one - I was told that this was necessary with a water softener. This is a comparison of the original aluminum anode to the replacement magnesium one.....it looks like I have a little bit of life left in the current magnesium anode.....but not a bunch and I believe it is time to get a new magnesium anode ordered.
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I also think that I may have resolved the movement of the T&P valve that PA Plumber is concerned about. I bought a short stem T&P Valve that had a long temperature probe. I removed the long stem T&P that was originally used to get through the insulation and replaced it with the short stem one. The temperature probe is now back inside the tank like it used to be and I believe it will work just fine. I realize that no manufacturer will approve relocating a T&P valve from it's original location - as they have liability issues and have no information on where you are moving it to - but I believe this installation will allow the T&P valve to funciton properly. I ask the salesman at the supply place where I buy plumbing fittings how they handle warranty replacements.....and he said that most times the manufacturer doesn't look at the old ones and they just do the paperwork and exchange them for new ones.

Original Long Stem T&P valve relocated for sidearm hookup.
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Comparison of long stem T&P to short stem T&P:
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Short Stem T&P installed:
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