How do I remove abused teeth?

[preach it]

I purchased a Vermeer 630B yesterday. It was reasonable cost and it runs. I changed the oil and filter, replaced several grease fittings, repaired a misaligned shaft, and then I tried to replace the teeth. Most of them I can't get off. The previous owner stripped the internal allen wrench holes on a few of them.
Does anyone have any good, tried ideas to remove them?

 

[Aaction]

I use an oxy-acetylene torch to carefully blow out the bolt heads. It won't damage the pocket if you know what you doing

 

[Blake22]

I have cut some with a torch, but the pocket had to be replaced as I cut it too. You probably need new pockets anyway. A couple of times I welded a nut on to the end of bolt and turned it off with an end wrench. Once you get one loose you're good to go. It sucks, I've been there.

 

[Bigstumps]

Smack each pocket with a 5 lb hand sledge medium hard. You swing it straight in perpendicular to the wheel - hit it right on the allen bolt head and then smack the threaded pocket on the opposite side in the same place. The force of the impact loosens the threads right up. Works like magic - in fact I think it is!!!!

 

[preach it]

Thanks for the help. I will try a couple of the ideas, hopefully one or a combination of several of them will work.
Eric - Jeneric Tree

 

[Dadatwins]

when you finally get them off and are ready to reassemble, make sure you use never-seize on the new cap screws and blocks. NEVER use lock-tite on stump cutter cap screws. Good luck with the machine

 

[phillytreeking1]

torch

 

[juststumps]

I purchased a Vermeer 630B yesterday. It was reasonable cost and it runs. I changed the oil and filter, replaced several grease fittings, repaired a misaligned shaft, and then I tried to replace the teeth. Most of them I can't get off. The previous owner stripped the internal allen wrench holes on a few of them.
Does anyone have any good, tried ideas to remove them?

McMASTER-CARR,, seach that name,, go on thier site and look for "MULTI- SPLINE EXTRACTORS " part # 57195A516 ... !/2 " size.... beat the thing , into the worn out head of the allen head , and turn with a wrench.... it costs $3.00 ... or take a good 1/2" drill bit,,, and drill the heads off of the cap screws.... you get one off, the other one will come out easy.... i never use a torch... and when you put it back together,, use a torque wrench... " NO IMPACT GUNS "

 

[juststumps]

Shallow-Grip Screw Extractors

The combination of multiple splines and a short, stocky design provides an aggressive, shallow grip for high-torque applications and hard-to-reach areas. Use these extractors to remove broken bolts, studs, and screws. Simply drill a hole in the broken part, place the extractor in the hole, and turn it with a wrench. Also good for removing pipe and fittings and other tubular-shaped items with hollow inside diameters. The full-length flute makes starting easy. Use on right-hand threads. Made of steel.

For Stud, Bolt, For Use O'all
and Screw Dia. Tube ID Drill Size Lg. Each

#12 1/8" 1/8" 1 3/8" 57195A511 $2.92

1/4" 5/32" 5/32" 1 3/8" 57195A512 2.92

5/16" 3/16" 3/16" 1 3/8" 57195A513 2.92

3/8" 7/32" 7/32" 1 3/8" 57195A514 2.92

7/16" 1/4" 1/4" 1 3/8" 57195A515 2.92

1/2" 9/32" 9/32" 1 3/8" 57195A516 2.92

9/16" 5/16" 5/16" 1 3/8" 57195A517 2.92

5/8" 11/32" 11/32" 1 3/8" 57195A518 2.92

11/16" 3/8" 3/8" 1 3/8" 57195A519 2.92

3/4" 13/32" 13/32" 1 3/8" 57195A521 3.24

13/16" 7/16" 7/16" 1 3/8" 57195A522 3.24

7/8" 15/32" 15/32" 1 3/8" 57195A523 3.24

15/16" 1/2" 1/2" 1 3/8" 57195A524 3.24

1" 17/32" 17/32" 1 3/8" 57195A525 3.09

1 1/16" 9/16" 9/16" 1 3/8" 57195A526 3.09

1 1/8" 19/32" 19/32" 1 3/8" 57195A527 3.09

1 3/16" 5/8" 5/8" 1 3/8" 57195A528 3.05

1 1/4" 21/32" 21/32" 1 3/8" 57195A531 3.55

1 5/16" 11/16" 11/16" 1 3/8" 57195A532 3.55

1 3/8" 23/32" 23/32" 1 3/8" 57195A533 3.55

1 7/16" 3/4" 3/4" 1 3/8" 57195A534 3.55

1 1/2" 25/32" 25/32" 1 3/8" 57195A541 4.24

1 9/16" 13/16" 13/16" 1 3/8" 57195A542 4.24

1 5/8" 27/32" 27/32" 1 3/8" 57195A543 4.24

1 11/16" 7/8" 7/8" 1 3/8" 57195A544 4.24


10-Piece Set— Includes extractors in sizes #12 to 3/4". Packed in a plastic case.
10-Piece Set 57195A31 Per Set $27.47



25-Piece Set— Includes one each of the extractors listed above. Packed in a plastic case.
25-Piece Set 57195A32 Per Set $64.82

 

[preach it]

Juststumps thanks for the info. I got a couple of them off using a breaker bar and spraying a penetrant on them and banging them. But I still have 6 teeth left or 12 bolts. I am going to search for the item you are describing locally, hopefully I can find one. (Hey, I live in big farm country, most of them don't fool around when it comes to working on huge machinery.) I may have to take it over to one of the local farm implement shops. Thanks again for the help.

If anyone else has any ideas, I am still open.
Thanks again, Eric

 

[sawyerDave]

How to remove loose teeth

Bar fight generally works, and is cheaper than the $&$*(&% dentist, just spent $1650 on a crown!

 

[BC WetCoast]

Big Stumps ideas works if the bolt head and pocket haven't been worn down. I had many where the bolt head was so thin, if there was any resistance, the allen fitting would strip. So I would use a torch. Sometimes I was able to reuse the pocket, sometimes I wasn;t.

The best way to get around this situation (worn bolt heads) is to change out the bolts more frequently.

 

[tomtrees58]

I've used a Sawzall to cut between the wheel and tooth pocket to cut one bolt in half. Once one bolt is cut the other you are home free! LOL.

i have a 630 B but got mine put never sleaze on the Allen bolts good luck tom trees

 

[wireedm]

Welp, the way I used to do it was to tie a strong line to the tooth, tie the other end to a good heavy door, and...........you know the rest of the story.

Seriously, just drill the head off of the cap screw. Then the rest of the bolt will pop right out with a small hammer and a punch.

 

[Brimmstone]

Use a pair of pliers to hold a nut over the spot where the allen wrench used to fit. With the nut lying flat as in the hole in the nut over the opening in the old bolt take your welder and fill the hole with weld. I've done this with a mig and a stick welder many times. Give the weld about 10 seconds to cool then try to turn with a wrench using a rocking motion. 9 times out of 10 the bolt will back out. If the nut snaps off just weld another on it's place. The heat from the weld will break down any locking compound that may have been used in the past also. Good luck and if you need any advice on procedure for doing this send me a PM.

 

[preach it]

Thanks for more ideas. I got one more off. There are 5 left or 10 bolts. I tried welding a nut on a couple of them but I welded on the outside of the nut. The nut just broke off. I will try welding a nut on the bolt again, but this time I will weld it on to the bolt on the inside. Thanks for the idea.
I may resort to cutting the teeth pockets off with a grinder/cutter wheel. I have a new set of teeth and pockets coming on Monday, so the teeth are coming off this weekend.

I have another somewhat related question. The teeth that I did get off, I sharpened the best that they could be, put them on with new bolts, and ground 17 stumps.
It worked ok, but it threw a tooth. When I took the rest of it off, I found that the pocket was cracked and that loosened it enough to throw the tooth. Have any of you ever had your machine throw a tooth?

 

[Dadatwins]

It sounds like you are using standard 1/2" tooth and pocket system. Throwing teeth is unfortunatly part of using this sytem especially when the pocket get worn and the wheel gets worn also. When using this system make sure your wheel is dressed smooth so the pockets fit flush agianst it. Some of those pockets were made to be reversable so when one side gets worn you can spin them. There are some better cutter tooth systems around that can avoid a lot of those headaches. I like the one piece rayco tooth, it avoids all the gauging and thrown teeth since the pocket and tooth all bolt together. There are othe systems also. Do a search for Greenteeth, vermeer teeth and leonardi teeth. On an older machine like yours not sure if sandvick makes a wheel for it and also not sure if the expense is worth it.
As for the remaining extractions, I have used a drill to bore a hole through the bolt and the heat from this will help break the thread/pocket bond. Takes a while and use cutting oil on your drill bits. Good luck.

 

[preach it]

I had a rain day this week and got the rest of the teeth off by grinding/cutting the pockets into pieces. It went ok, a couple of them were a hassle.

Dadatwins: The grinder has the standard Vermeer teeth on it now. I wanted to have teeth to interchange with my other grinder. (It has 1/2" teeth on it.) I have tried the one piece Rayco teeth, which were overkill for my use on a small grinder. I decided to go with the standard 1/2" teeth but with the "super pocket". The "super pocket" is extended in the back up behind the tooth to support it. With a 1/2" tooth in it, it looks like a Rayco tooth. That way I can exchange teeth between the 2 grinders and have the extra support in the tooth that the Vermeer grinder needs. I will post in a while to let you know how the "super pockets" and teeth hold up.

 

[stevieb]

Had same problem with my 352 yesterday. Luckily I do have burning equipment heated them up to cherry red and turned straight out less then 5-mins start to finish, cup of tea while cooling and back to work in under 15 mins.

 

[ropensaddle]

I weld a allen wrench into the hole then getr done if that don't work I break
my torch and cut the bugger I use a propane and oxygen easier for me I
have a small propane and oxygen bottle good for the field easier to load etc.
Propane cuts very well but if you really have to cut like half inch plate your
oxy will go fast.