Don't get to run .325 much nearly all my cutting is with .375LP chains. I did recently added a Husky 450 with 20" .325 to my saw arsenal.
I generally only sharpen when needed and not just because a certain amount. With experience an operator will know when the chain is no longer like it should and needs sharping. It just like using any knife sometimes they cut a long time and other times needs constant sharping; just what it is asked to do.
I have found that chains will dull according to what your cutting. Dirty wood dulls chains quickly. Dry season wood normally dull chains faster than green wood; it simply harder and more abravise. Even the type tree can make a big difference in sharping times depending mineral content. I don't like cutting Hackberry here as the bark dulls chains so quickly; the wood itself is not bad. On hitting nails, wire, rocks, etc can really do a number on chains. Even with this my chains usually last 5 to 10 cords of 18" firewood before I need to replace them; of course, I pay close attention to what and where I am cutting.
Others here probably agree if you saw railroad spike in two you might not even get one sharping before replacing a chain; had this to happen once cutting a tree from the city. Kids and some adults are bad about driving metal objects in trees. Either way always have a spare chain or two on hand when cutting in case the worst happens especially if your in a remote location. Sometimes it don't even hurt to carry a spare saw as you may need cut your main saw out of bad unexpected bind.