lasmacgod
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know why, but they just don't look quite right to me for some reason. Probably just my eyes messing with me.
How long should a chain last cutting firewood?
- Thread starter Dropsix
- Start date
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Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
You could be right. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Long story short, that chain is very dull. When it is properly sharpened it will cut as well as it did when new. You need to take a good amount off of it. (this is where a grinder comes in handy...) It can be done with a file but is going to require some effort.
I agree with Doug, the pics from the top show that the corners are rounded in, so the chain will not feed. It pushes the chain out of the wood and it does not cut.
Buy a new file and go at that chain like you hate it.
Remember, you only file on the push, don't drag it on the way back. I like to have a little brush to clean the metal off the file when I have to clean up a rounded over chain, it will help your file last a little longer.
Remember, you only file on the push, don't drag it on the way back. I like to have a little brush to clean the metal off the file when I have to clean up a rounded over chain, it will help your file last a little longer.
You may want to let your shop sharpen that to remove the excess metal, will save you some time. Also, those 12 V hand held sharpeners work very well as long as you replace the sharping stone that comes with them with a diamond stone. They will remove the excess for you a lot faster than by hand.
I usually only take 2-3 strokes to clean up chain. Steady, even pressure. My buddy picked up that Stihl file a while back, he loves it. That is the first time he used a file to sharpen a saw, and he has been in the tree trimming business for 10+ years.....heh. Anyway, worse case, take in to get sharpened and all cutters same length and cleaned up.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
So i did see spoons ,like was said you need to go back a ways ,maybe worth paying for a shop to grind it back,by the looks of the bottom of the links that chain was used a while dull ,
Do a google or AS search and download the carlton filing pdf. lt tells you not only how to sharpen chains but all the details regarding chain maintanence. It takes practice and some reading to be good at it. Next time you buy chain ask for a single cutter you can keep as a reference point as to what you need to do to keep chains cutting.
Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
I guess I was under the assumption that the 2 in 1 file was a complete system. I probably should have done more research.
I'll look up that Carlton filing pdf as well.
I'll look up that Carlton filing pdf as well.
It is a good system, but it is just designed to sharpen a dull chain. Your chain was either rocked, or not sharpened on a timely basis, and just needs more work.
A lot of people will touch up their chain every 2nd tank of fuel. Sometimes, depending on conditions, a chain will go more or less than that, but keeping your chain sharp will increase your productivity and help your bar & saw & chain last a lot longer.
The sharpening always must go to the outer edge of the corner of the tooth.
A lot of people will touch up their chain every 2nd tank of fuel. Sometimes, depending on conditions, a chain will go more or less than that, but keeping your chain sharp will increase your productivity and help your bar & saw & chain last a lot longer.
The sharpening always must go to the outer edge of the corner of the tooth.
GPX433Todd
Small Engine Addict
Sharp to a point. Like this.duckman
ArboristSite Operative
look at the nice round radius under the cutting edge in the picture Gypo logger posted and look at yours . looks like that fancy all in one file guide has the file set too high. I had two different guides like that . one cut the rakers way to low and the other did the same thing looks like yours is doing
Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
Here's the thing though. I sharpened this chain every one to two gas tanks. I never rocked the chain as you say since there are no rocks to do so on. If a log was lying flat on the ground, I cut 3/4's of the way through and then rolled the log over and cut though the rest.
I don't know what else to say really. I thought this Stihl system would do all I needed it to do. It does seem to be leaving out one part of the sharpening process.
Thanks for your advice
lasmacgod
ArboristSite Operative
It could be that the 2-5 strokes every couple tanks wasn't enough to bring it back 100%. After a few or several touch-ups, the issue compounds on itself. As far as "rocking" a chain, it is more a figure of speech, it doesn't actually have to involve proper rocks. Anything harder than the chain will do it, to include sand and/or dirt in the bark.
You might consider semi chisel chain for your next chain. Stays sharp longer and is easier to sharpen.
You might consider semi chisel chain for your next chain. Stays sharp longer and is easier to sharpen.
Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
Got ya. I just went out and tried sharpening again and got the tips sharp as mentioned. I'll sharpen the rest of the chain tomorrow and give it another shot.
As for the rocking the chain part, then yes, the wood I've been cutting is dirty. Well a lot of it at least. I think you're right in regards to using a semi chisel chain. I'll have to give that a shot.
This may sound philosophical, but the STIHL tool does not sharpen the chain. You do.
There are many different tools available to sharpen a chain with: files, guides, grinders, rotary tools, etc. If you know what you want to achieve, you can make any of them work. If you give any of them to a monkey, he may be able to remove metal, but will not end up with a sharpened chain. None of the tools are 'automatic'. None of them sharpen by themselves.
So, start with an understanding of what you want the cutters to look like, then use the tool of your choice to achieve that. Monitor progress to make sure that you are getting what you want. Some guys keep a few links of new, un-used chain to compare their filed chain with.
Philbert
Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
That's a good point and I agree. This is new to me so with experience and advice from this forum, I'll learn in no time.
Dirt/sand in the bark often results in what we refer to as a rocked chain. As previously mentioned, it refers to anything the deforms the corners.
I would not give up on full chisel chain just yet, it does cut noticeably faster than semi chisel when sharp. If there is a dirty side to the log, I will often put the bar in the cut and lift up on the saw to finish the cut after rolling the log. Not trapping the dirt/sand between the bar and the wood helps to keep the chain good for a longer period of time.
I would not give up on full chisel chain just yet, it does cut noticeably faster than semi chisel when sharp. If there is a dirty side to the log, I will often put the bar in the cut and lift up on the saw to finish the cut after rolling the log. Not trapping the dirt/sand between the bar and the wood helps to keep the chain good for a longer period of time.
Dropsix
ArboristSite Lurker
Cool I'll give that a shot.
Went out and sharpened the first side of the chain. Looks a lot better and the point is extremely sharp now.
it's a lot easier when you know and understandstand what you're looking at and where you need it to go.
Thanks guys, merry Christmas!
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