How many pulls for a normal chainsaw?

[shambones]

Hello,

This is my first post on this place but I have been reading the forums for many years now. A couple of weeks ago, there was a major storm that blew down 1000's of my trees. I had always had some small saws but after that I decided I needed to get a bigger saw to really cut this stuff up.

I went to a store that sells Stihls and Jonsereds. I wanted to buy the Stihl MS362, but I was talked into the Jonsered 2159c. Same cc's, less weight, more features and about $100 less. Anyway, the saw works great once it is running. Problem, is it seems to always be hard to start. It almost always takes 6-9 pulls to get it going except if it is warm and you start it within in 3 minutes after you put it down.
The other day, I had to take it back because the pull cord pulled right out of it after I literally tried pulling it 20 times to get it too start.
The dealer fixed it, and said they couldnt recreate the problem. When I picked it up I asked them to start it right there for me. It had been started and ran within the last 2 hours. The tech pulled 3 times without the choke, (nothing), pulled the choke out pulled twice (a little spark), put the choke back in and pulled 3 times and then if finally started. That is 8 pulls to get it too start. I think that is too much for a professional grade saw. Once it is going it goes through oak like butter with high RPM's.

My question is "what is normal for a saw to start?" I was always under the impression that 3 pulls is normal and considered good. Also, without bias' for one saw or the other, "do you think I should trade this saw in and get the Stihl or another Jonsered 2159c?" I spent this kind of money on a saw to make sure it was going to last for a long, long, time without complications.

Thanks for all the help from you experts on here.

 

[mayhem100]

My new Husqvarna 359 (about 5 tanks of gas through it, so its not even fully broken in yet) is 2 pulls with the decomp in and full choke to get a sputter, then one pull with the decomp in and choke off and its running, cold start.

Warm start, if I shut it down and its still hot I just turn on the switch and one pull is all it takes.

My old Craftsman (Poulan) 18", 42cc saw was 3 pulls full choke cold start and its running, one or two pulls no choke or half choke when hot...that one had a primer bulb and I was always able to start it with the mfr recommended 6 pumps cold, no pumps hot. Worked like that for years till the piston got good and scored on me and I started losing compression...which is when I picked up the 359.

I agree, your saw sounds like there is a problem starting, too much effort. I'm curious though, the dealer said they were unable to reproduce the problem, you asked them to start it and they had a hard time starting it..did you point out to them right then and there that this is what you're talking about?

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Hello,

This is my first post on this place but I have been reading the forums for many years now. A couple of weeks ago, there was a major storm that blew down 1000's of my trees. I had always had some small saws but after that I decided I needed to get a bigger saw to really cut this stuff up.

I went to a store that sells Stihls and Jonsereds. I wanted to buy the Stihl MS362, but I was talked into the Jonsered 2159c. Same cc's, less weight, more features and about $100 less. Anyway, the saw works great once it is running. Problem, is it seems to always be hard to start. It almost always takes 6-9 pulls to get it going except if it is warm and you start it within in 3 minutes after you put it down.
The other day, I had to take it back because the pull cord pulled right out of it after I literally tried pulling it 20 times to get it too start.
The dealer fixed it, and said they couldnt recreate the problem. When I picked it up I asked them to start it right there for me. It had been started and ran within the last 2 hours. The tech pulled 3 times without the choke, (nothing), pulled the choke out pulled twice (a little spark), put the choke back in and pulled 3 times and then if finally started. That is 8 pulls to get it too start. I think that is too much for a professional grade saw. Once it is going it goes through oak like butter with high RPM's.

My question is "what is normal for a saw to start?" I was always under the impression that 3 pulls is normal and considered good. Also, without bias' for one saw or the other, "do you think I should trade this saw in and get the Stihl or another Jonsered 2159c?" I spent this kind of money on a saw to make sure it was going to last for a long, long, time without complications.

Thanks for all the help from you experts on here.

I would richen up the L side jet a little bit.

Most of my saws pop on 1 at choke and fire on the 2nd pull, at most 3-4 pulls total.


Chris

 

[w8ye]

I think the low speed mixture is about 1/8th turn lean

At least I would try it just a little bit richer.

 

[nmurph]

I agree the L probably needs to be turned about 1/8-1/4 counter-clockwise. The problem is that the limiters may prevent this. They can be pulled and re-centered. Most of my saws will need 4-5 pulls from a dead-cold start bf they pop, and the a couple more to get them running. If they are still warm, then they should start on the first pull, without the choke.
As for which saw- I own both and despite what the Husky specs say, the 359 & 362 are within a couple of ounces of each other. Powerwise, the 362 packs another .5hp. If you don't plan to do any mods, I might trade up for the 362 if you need to pull a longer (24") bar. If the 359 will get it done for you, then stick with it, there's nothing wrong with that saw. The 359 also takes very well to porting.

 

[xdmp22]

One, two, tree......

My stihl pops after pull 2 choked, then firs within the next 1 or 2 pulls in decent weather....haven't run it in the winter yet.

 

[homelitejim]

My new 441 always takes a few pulls(8-9) to get it going when cold but it is not completely broken in yet. The 066 always starts in 2-3 pulls cold, ms170 2 pulls cold, 1970's Poulan 245A 3 pulls cold. Point is break your saw in and it will likely start easier.

 

[sunfish]

Like said, richen up the L screw a bit. It'll likely get better when it's broken in also.

 

[Philbert]

Congrats on finally getting around to post!

I went to a store that sells Stihls and Jonsereds. I wanted to buy the Stihl MS362, but I was talked into the Jonsered 2159c.

Any chance that this store was just North of 694 and just West of 35W? They like their Jonsereds.

All of the above posts on carb adjustments may have merit - wish I knew more about that.

One thing I did learn was to give saws a sharp pull when starting. I pull the rope slowly until I feel resistance, let it rewind fully, then pull it out sharply. This makes a difference on some saws, but some have their own personalities.

Philbert

 

[mountainlake]

I'd go 1/4 turn out on the low adjuster, you may have to speed the idle up a bit after that. Most hard starting cold is caused by a lean low setting unless the choke isn't closing tight. Steve

 

[rob066]

My 346 Ne got hard to start after it was broken in. I pulled the limiter tabs and turned the low to richen it up i turned it about half a turn. A little excessive. I then reinstalled the limiter tabs. I then turned the tab about 1/4 turn leaner to make it start right. I went with a half turn initally to allow for some adjustability if I need some. My 346 starts with no problem at all now.

 

[Stellarex]

3 is the max I have to pull from cold on my Stihl 029S with full choke. After its warmed up all I have to do is pull it once and its ready to go.

 

[Stellarex]

Any chance that this store was just North of 694 and just West of 35W? They like their Jonsereds.


Philbert

Does this store you speak of start with a B and have a wengers at the end of it? I've never been in there but they do love their Jonsereds. If it was up to me I'd exchange it for a different one and try again, it might just be a picky saw. No sense in messing with the carb and tearing it apart if you dont have to.

 

[mjones]

Purchased MS 362 2 weeks ago. 1-2 pulls for cold start with full choke and decompression valve used, then 1 pull after burp. Warm start only takes 1 pull

 

[mountainlake]

My 346 Ne got hard to start after it was broken in. I pulled the limiter tabs and turned the low to richen it up i turned it about half a turn. A little excessive. I then reinstalled the limiter tabs. I then turned the tab about 1/4 turn leaner to make it start right. I went with a half turn initally to allow for some adjustability if I need some. My 346 starts with no problem at all now.

That's a good move to open it a little extra and then end up in the middle of the tabs. If off warrenty I just grind them off on the bench grinder. Steve

 

[Big_Al]

Might just be me (not a saw guru) but if I buy a new saw it should start and run in 2 or 3 pulls. I shouldn't have to tweak the carb settings. When I bought my ms362 last year the dealer spent a few minutes making sure everything was adjusted and set to where the saw started/ran like it should. Had it almost a year now and it starts on 2 or 3 pulls, not sure why they put a compression release on it though. My older stihls usually will start in 3 or 4.

 

[Philbert]

OK guys, time to channel your best (or worst) Bob Dylan impression:

"How many pulls should a Jonnn-Ser-Ed take, before it starts to cut wooooood?

And how many trees should the O-P cut, before he decides his saw's good?

And how many verses will the Mods tolerate, before I am for-ever banned?

The answer my friend, is written in the threads, the answer is posted in the threads"

Philbert Zimmerman

 

[shambones]

Does this store you speak of start with a B and have a wengers at the end of it? I've never been in there but they do love their Jonsereds. If it was up to me I'd exchange it for a different one and try again, it might just be a picky saw. No sense in messing with the carb and tearing it apart if you dont have to.

You are correct. That is the name of the store. I went there because I figure they would sell me the best saw of the Stihl's and the Jonsereds. I figured I could compare right there. Anyway, after going back a few times, I started noticing that half the staff has Jonsered shirts on. Dont get me wrong, I love this saw when it is running, but I am just disappointed that it starts so hard. They offered to let me trade back but they didnt say if they would go even up with the MS362 or I would have to pay the $100 difference. I already bought 2 extra chains for the Jonsered so I am not sure they would be able to be used on the Stihl as well.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I have to agree that if I bought a brand new saw, I shouldnt have to dink with it. I am going back up this weekend to the place, I will try and run it through its paces and then I guess make a decision. I really like the saw so it is difficult but I dont want to be stuck with a lemon. Alot of people on here say it will start better as time goes on, so I am not sure if I should wait or not.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

 

[Dennis Gauge]

A piece of advice on your pulling technique:

You gotta stop pulling BEFORE you get to the end of the rope. Give short, brisk tugs on the rope. Don't pull until you get to the end.

 

[SawTroll]

I would richen up the L side jet a little bit.

...... Chris

My first thought as well - very common issue on new saws that aren't tuned right....:msp_sad: