How much throttle when cutting

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Wide open throttle, right to the hinge.

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Here ya go Brian.
 
Run it how you want it. If it's tuned correctly, there shouldn't be a problem. A lean condition is usually an issue at WOT. There is also multi stages of the low circuit. WOT in the cut and feather it when needed. Think more about your cutting and less about the saw. They aren't built that temperamental.
 
Another issue when cutting at reduced throttle is the chance of clutch slippage and heat buildup which can be bad news especially with inboard clutch saws.
 
Another issue when cutting at reduced throttle is the chance of clutch slippage and heat buildup which can be bad news especially with inboard clutch saws.

I hear of all these heat issues with inboard clutches but have never actually heard of anybody frying one under normal working conditions. I've used my saws with inboard clutches in reasonable heat basically non stop all day with absolutely no signs of excessive heat at all.
I have however heard of people frying outboard clutches on Husky 3120's as they have enough torque to spin the clutch and rev out under full throttle even if the chain is stuck.
 
Run it how you want it. If it's tuned correctly, there shouldn't be a problem. A lean condition is usually an issue at WOT. There is also multi stages of the low circuit. WOT in the cut and feather it when needed. Think more about your cutting and less about the saw. They aren't built that temperamental.


Many older saws have no part throttle fuel metering. 3/4 throttle on those saws is the danger zone.


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My saw gets way more use than most and I back off in the final cut #1 I put 4000 hours and even though I bb it, there was just normal wear for a saw so used. I have never changed the clutch the only thing I have changed is bar I wore out and a coil in seven going on 8 years of super duty cutting. Granted I am wot the whole way to the hinge and in bucking almost through the log where I normally drive a wedge and feather the cut to avoid getting the chain. I would bet any of you could not make me look like a sloutch running my saw and you yourn.
 
Thanks for the feedback, ran an old chain on the saw to cut stumps down more into the dirt, so got more practise with the old chainsaw, but that old dirt sure does dull a chain fast.
 
Wide open throttle, right to the hinge.

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Here ya go Brian.

Then what run:laugh: Sometimes I never let up but most times I do at the hinge. For example tree that has a 5 degree lean to the side I am felling it to and starts opening up quick I just keep on cutting till its going for sure then back up and away from stump. Now tree is not leaning I usually have my winch deployed and tension after notching at wot lol. I will cut at wot until I reach about an inch or so left of hinge meat. If it ain't yet going I may feather just a little further after driving wedge. If it still does not move I will walk to the bucket keeping my eyes on the tree and staying out of its projected path and start the truck winch already engaged and down it comes. I have done this procedure thousands of times with the same result,success. My pto winch can be stopped or started with a simple turn of the key and can uproot a 20 inch oak cable only 18 foot up. I only put enough pull to shake the top a little though!
 
So, just am curious, how should one operate the chainsaw when cutting, I am only using a chainsaw once in a while, either taking down the last of my trees which I just did recently, or while out hunting to cut firewood, so am curious should one rev up full as you apply the chain to the wood or a moderate amount till it starts to cut then should you be full throttle or just enough throttle to cut through?
Wondering if I am not using the saw in the proper manner.:confused:
Uh....All of it.
 
Run it how you want it. If it's tuned correctly, there shouldn't be a problem. A lean condition is usually an issue at WOT. ......

I believe the issue discussed here is with "halv throttle", as there are no halv throttle jets in the carbs? Carb tuning is not relevant regarding that issue.


Anyway, I don't think a little "feathring" makes any harm, as you said!
 
I believe the issue discussed here is with "halv throttle", as there are no halv throttle jets in the carbs? Carb tuning is not relevant regarding that issue.


Anyway, I don't think a little "feathring" makes any harm, as you said!

Yeah I understand the discussion Niko.
Where is the carb getting it's fuel from at half throttle? All circuits.
The circuits are adjusted by mixture screws.
Carbs with the exception of the early saws (as someone stated) have a multi stage idle/low circuit that works through the throttle range. The saw is feeding of the main at half throttle, not just at WOT. The amount needed is determined by engine demand/atmospheric pressure. Hence I don't see the issue at half throttle.
 
two different questions being answered. I do ease up at the hinge, make sure I'm even across and the tree's committing like I expect. More experienced sawyer may not need to. As for WOT, the saw should handle it fine in most cases. I would be more careful in limbing opps, with a snappy little saw. So much time out of the cut at wot may be more likely to heat up.
 
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