How to take off external clutch to remove sprocket? Stihl 031

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LostWater

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Hello all again,

I am now attempting to remove the sprocket from my newly acquired 031AV. I have run into a snag; how do I remove the external clutch to be able to take off the sprocket assembly? The 029 I have is an internal clutch, so it is a different beast altogether.

I removed the pullcord assembly and I see the nut on the other side, but when I put a wrench on both sides, it removes the nut on the opposite side that I need. I see that there is some internal threading on the opposite side of the clutch; is there a special tool that threads in there to hold it all steady?

Any help would be most appreciated.

Kindest Regards,
 
You can use a piston stop. It's a rubber tool with a rubber ball on the end that will fit inside the spark plug hole to prevent the engine from rotating. A long piece of starter rope knotted up will work also. Just leave some sticking out so you can retrieve it.
 
Yup, I've overtightened a couple in the past because my brain automatically made me turn it counterclockwise to loosen. It doesn't help that most of my ratchets are labelled 'on' and 'off' for clockwise and counterclockwise movement.

Thanks for pointing that out, BarBurner.
 
Now Otto... The 031 is a 30 year old saw, 15 times the lifespan of a Husqvarna/Poulan.
You need to make sure that you retighten the flywheel
nut enough, or you will damage it when you run it. The
threads in the flywheel are for the use of a puller.
 
I usually get by with an air impact and let the compression hold it. If your not used to doing that it might be a good idea to lay a towel over the whole this so the something don't fly out and hit you. Like they say, remember it will be a left hand thread.
 
Originally posted by Fish
Now Otto... The 031 is a 30 year old saw, 15 times the lifespan of a Husqvarna/Poulan.B]


And your point is what fish? I am still awaiting for your explanation of your coments of stihl users greasing their bearings more. The 15 times might be applicable with you servicing a husky but thats only because you cant help yourself from straightening out the crankshaft with a sledge. Maybe someday you will see some newer saws in Kentucky so your statements will bear some fact in them instead of mumbled rubbish.

Lostwater: take the sparkplug out and insert rope into the cylinder to act as a piston stop. Take the clutch shoes and springs out with a screwdriver. Drill three hols about 1 1/2" apart on a piece of flat steel bar about 18" long and screw 3 bolts through it. Use the tips of the bolts to engage the 3 spokes. Remember its russian thread (ie. left hand so turn counterclockwise to tighten - clockwise to loosen).
 
Last edited:
Great Idea!!

Thanks tundraotto,

I was turning the fool thing the wrong way. My impact wouldn't even budge it either way. So I put my buddie's impact on it and broke a corner back off of the nut. A good thing about Tundraotto's idea is that it does not use the nut surface but uses the whole clutch hub triangle to transmit the turning force.

I cussed so much last night. This morning, I called the power shop and they told me that it would cost me $15-$20 to put the new sprocket on! If this works then it seems like it is only a ten minute job.

Any ideas? Should I just let the power shop install it? Would they use a special tool or something? Or are my options limited now that I broke the corner back? (still some meat to grab, but broken back about half way)

Thanks and Kindest Regards,
 
this is the danger in using an impact. If something breaks it means a new crank and the odds are youre looking at hundreds of dollars for a repair. Better to take it slow and sure- the dealers have a special wrench, but the tool I described will work just as well. I'll post a pic tonight.
 
Cool!!

I thank you so much for replying. i will look forward to your pic. I will probably make your tool tonight and be able to report back how it goes.

Thanks so much for the advice.

Kindest Regards,
 
Since part of the hex head is chipped off, I'd drop it at the shop and let them mess with it for $20. If you can hold them to that price, it's a bargain considering the time that will be involved now that it's way overtightened.
I'd buy a new hub also, or you will run into this next time as well.
 
The Fish and Otto show is worth the price of admission alone, no matter what they argue aboutKinda like Amos and Andy.

I knew you guys would have something to say about ahammer a chisel, so I didn't mention it.

But seriously, our new friend probably needs to go to the shop with the thing.
 
Yep ya gotta love the Fishin with Otto show...hehe..

Seriously I have never met a clutch I cant remove with my impact(given all other things are good..ie piston/rings/not overtightened) ...and it should take a repair shop about 5 minutes to replace one....(but they will charge you 10-15 bucks usually) I typically wont charge my regular customers for putting on a new sprocket if they buy it from me..
The problems with the impact that I have run into, is the Stihl 066 clutch...if you hit it too hard with the impact gun putting it on, it will, in time, crack and start spinning on the crank. It splits the hub into three peices...cant count how many times I have seen this...and done it a few myself...
 
Were is Doug when you need him ??
<img src=http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid39/p8164c9a878033e0385adaf836628861c/fd04e640.jpg>
 
removal

You use the rope trick? Can't you take off the muffler and stick a piece of hard wood in the exhaust port to stop the piston, or are the cylinders too fragile on the sthils? While you have the muffler off check it to see if the spark arrester is ok and how does the top of the piston look and are the rings in good shape. A dowel rod(wood) should hold the piston back without mushrooming the piston over. Impact wrench to tighten, not! Tourque wrench and do not use never seize or you will over tighten.
 
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