how well does your splitter start in freezing weather?

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littlechub

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Just curious if others have problems or if its just mine. I recently bought a used 21 ton splitter with a 5 hp Tecumseh motor, if its real cold it absolutely will not start. I put a little electric heater under it yesterday morning for about 20-25 minutes and it fired right up. Once its warmed up it will fire first pull every time, I just don't have much patience for something that won't start when I need it too.
 
My ATV is the same way. Bought me some starting fluid that contains a lubricant for the top end and it starts right up as long as the starter can spin it over fast enough to generate compression and a spark.
 
SS Electric......starts every time.. ;)


You know how many yards of extension cord it would take to use that thing out to the woods? :laugh:

I had to put a new battery in my splitter this winter and now she starts when I need it to. I don't need it to when it's 20 below, I don't think that is too good for the hydraulics, even if I let it warm up for a while.

Ted
 
You know how many yards of extension cord it would take to use that thing out to the woods? :laugh:

I had to put a new battery in my splitter this winter and now she starts when I need it to. I don't need it to when it's 20 below, I don't think that is too good for the hydraulics, even if I let it warm up for a while.

Ted


I just bring the woods to it.. :) You are right though, at -20 I don't need or care to be splitting.

Couple more days we'll be in the twenties...:givebeer:
 
I did change the engine oil to synthetic and it did make it easier to pull,but it still don't start
 
ive never had good luck with small engines in cold weather. only one that would always start was my old honda 300 fourtrax fourwheeler. come to think of it, i dont have very good luck with big motors when its below zero either. i have a heated shop that i keep the skidsteer in and 3 generators. if need be, i grab tarps knipco's and gens to start things outside in the winter. this year i havent fired up much of anything. been too dang cold so far
 
The problem is the hydraulic fluid.
if you disconnect the hydraulic pump your engine would fire right up. The sweet ticket would be a clutch between them. I am still thinkin about that idea.

it is hard on the pump if it cavitates much. if I left one out side I will start it (if possible) and let it run for quite awhile to get the oil warm enough to flow good.

Lot of heavy equipment is started when it is really cold, and I am sure they have to let it warm some before it will move good. Worst I ever did was cranking up a S-60 genie (diesel engine at that!) in Utah on a day right around about 5 deg, and drove it at 1.3 mph for a couple miles to get to another building. It was sluggish for about half hour, which was fine as the driver was in just about the same condition.
 
There is a good reason Tecumseh is out of business. A new ohv engine such as a briggs vanguard, suburu ex, or honda GX series will start easy *(second pull for mine) and will likely pay for itself soon in fuel savings and will be quieter to boot. Just run 0w-30 synthetic under 40 degrees.
 
Mine starts perfectly, it's plugged into my tractors remotes and my tractor "always" starts...

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SR
 
The other day when it was really really cold, I had to place a small space heater beside it and cover it for awhile before it would start.
 

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I just ran mine last weekend. It was 5 below, and it started on the 3rd pull. I did just put a new engine on it this spring though. Last year once it got below 40 degres out you would just forget it.
 
The GC 160 on mine has been cranky about it lately as well.

Synthetic 5--30 helps, as does a clean filter and a properly gapped plug.
A snort of ether dosn't hurt.

Biggest improvement I found was to run the Hydro tank at half capacity in winter, and thin out the 10W hydro with a couple quarts of ATF.
The Hydro warms up faster when there is less to warm, and there is no issue with getting rid of excess heat. Accumulated moisture in the tank boils off, and stays boiled off that way as well.

I let her low idle for 15min. or so before even putting a load on it.
The cavitation issue is unnerving when you can hear it whining under a load.
It bugs me enough to just let it warm all the way.
 
Mine always starts on the 1st or second pull with the choke on, as long as I remember to turn the ignition on... I still don't care for Briggs motors, but outside of the crap choice of using phenolic resin engagement pawls on the recoil starter (Of which I've broken 2 sets, gotta remember to turn the gas off before tilting/towing it) it runs like a top and is good on fuel. it's always been a bit cold-blooded as you have to let the engine warm up, even in the summer before idling it, or else it lurches badly. Eventually it'll have a proper sized Subaru or Honda commercial motor on it, preferably with an oil filter.
 
What model series Tecumseh 5 HP??

I have two of the HH series, an HH100 on the little wood-haulin' tractor and an HH70 on the splitter. They have been the most reliable, trouble-free and pound-for-pound the hardest working small engines I've ever owned... I've thrown away a dozen or more Briggs (admittedly, most of 'em have been the cheap, vertical shaft push mower type), but I've never tossed a Tecumseh HH series (I personally know of at least a dozen other old HH series still running strong). The HH100 is 46 years old (1968), starts every time, even at -20°, runs and idles like new, it will use a little oil if'n you're working it extra hard. The HH70 is 34 years old (1980 date code) and runs perfectly, has never used a drop of oil... but, being hooked to the hydraulics it can be temperamental to start in real cold weather (say, below 10°). The cold (and therefor thick) hydraulic oil just makes it impossible to pull over fast enough to build any compression. Normally I can pull the spark plug and dribble a little two-cycle mix in the cylinder, the added liquid helps seal the rings and build compression. But when temps drop below zero I've had to either disconnect the pump or warm-up the hydraulic fluid to get it started.

I'm not a big believer of synthetic oil in small engines, I believe keeping "clean" oil in 'em is what's important. I change oil in small engines 3 or four times a year depending on use... seasonal use engines, such as grass cutting machines, get changed 3 times, those being used year round get changed 4 times. Heck, most of 'em don't even take a full quart... why not change often and keep clean oil in 'em?? They get 5w20 in winter, 5w30 spring/fall, 10w30 summer, and I buy whatever name brand-name oil is on sale cheapest. The last few years at the fleet store it's been Motorcraft 5w20 and Kendall 5w30/10w30; the 5w20 and 10w30 says synthetic blend on the label, the 5w30 don't... (shrug)... whatever. Granddad always said, "Any oil is always better than no oil, and clean oil is always better than dirty oil." I tend to agree; clean petroleum based oil trumps dirty synthetic oil hands-down... and 80 years combined use between those two Tecumseh HH engines is enough proof (for me, anyway).
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