husky 357 zama carb

[Westboastfaller]

what prompted me to do this test is I got rid of the plastic clamp, replaced it with the metal setup. Replaced the carb with the zama too. Just testing my new parts.
For the heck of it I made a gasket, installed it. To tell the truth the saw seems to be running well. Then I sprayed the carb spray and the saw crapped out.
I like the idea of the epoxy in the screw channels.
I sprayed the carb cleaner above where the plastic ring butts up to the carb. I'm tempted to tighten the carbs screws some more and re-test.

Maybe you need to back it off?
This is like plumbing finishing but maybe
more sensitive. In the sense that this seals easier and with yet much less preasure on the wrench.
We are not building a battleship, here.

Do you have wood to cut? Then sharpen her up nice and lay on the dogs and pour the heat into her. Is she still regulating or are the revs stating to climb when you come of the throttle? (Chain is now jumping ahead or spinning ["racing "] Maybe find out.)
...And if the wood isn't big enough to bring out this behaviour then who the heck cares?
As Clint Eastwood (as the actor) would say when asked for another 'take' ... " Was I out of focus? ...then let's move on."

I used an epoxy in the threads. Fill them up, let em dry, drill it out, then install. The epoxy holds up to the tight threads better then just the rubber. The 357 is a PITA.

It has plastic threads. (Nylon, I believe)
They don't need to be very tight at all.
I would constantly take them off for ice/water cleaning with cold winter work.
I've crosthreaded and stripped the left side and could hardly put any preasure on either side (to keep it even) and they never leaked.
When you are over tightening each time then you are compressing/destroying/hardening the memory of the rubber.

 

[cranman1951]

I've got a 350 I stripped the plastic so it wouldn't tighten without slipping, but it seems to run and seal OK. I was thinking of taking a very small zip tie piece and gluing it into the plastic manifold to give purchase to the threads, but don't want to fix it until it causes a problem, LOL.....

 

[chuckp]

Think a light smear of 1184 would help?

 

[cuinrearview]

Is this it?
View attachment 889540

You can see the ridge of rubber in this pic that seals against the carb face.

Maybe you need to back it off?
This is like plumbing finishing but maybe
more sensitive. In the sense that this seals easier and with yet much less preasure on the wrench.
We are not building a battleship, here.

Do you have wood to cut? Then sharpen her up nice and lay on the dogs and pour the heat into her. Is she still regulating or are the revs stating to climb when you come of the throttle? (Chain is now jumping ahead or spinning ["racing "] Maybe find out.)
...And if the wood isn't big enough to bring out this behaviour then who the heck cares?
As Clint Eastwood (as the actor) would say when asked for another 'take' ... " Was I out of focus? ...then let's move on."



It has plastic threads. (Nylon, I believe)
They don't need to be very tight at all.
I would constantly take them off for ice/water cleaning with cold winter work.
I've crosthreaded and stripped the left side and could hardly put any preasure on either side (to keep it even) and they never leaked.
When you are over tightening each time then you are compressing/destroying/hardening the memory of the rubber.

OP didn't say if he had ran it to check for odd behavior. Just that he'd sprayed something an inch or two from the air inlet and it died. I have also ran intake bolts in and out of these multiple times without issue. It's kinda like the band type intake clamps, you just gotta feel when tight "enough" is reached.

 

[HarleyT]

Think a light smear of 1184 would help?

1184, 1185,
whatever it takes...

 

[huskihl]

I’ve seen the threaded manifold warp from over tightening screws

 

[J D]

I've also seen the manifold deform & leak due to being over tightened... At least that's what I thought it was so I warmed it up with the heat gun & got it nice & straight... Problem remained... My issue turned out to be a pin hole in the impulse line. Interestingly after replacing the impulse line the saw still died when I sprayed CRC around the boot. The "sensitivity" changed a bit but the saw definitely sucked plenty enough vapour through the air filter to choke it. If you really think it's the carb not sealing on the boot the grease trick is a good idea

 

[Westboastfaller]

I've also seen the manifold deform & leak due to being over tightened... At least that's what I thought it was so I warmed it up with the heat gun & got it nice & straight... Problem remained... My issue turned out to be a pin hole in the impulse line. Interestingly after replacing the impulse line the saw still died when I sprayed CRC around the boot. The "sensitivity" changed a bit but the saw definitely sucked plenty enough vapour through the air filter to choke it. If you really think it's the carb not sealing on the boot the grease trick is a good idea

Had a pin hole in the impulse
line also. Weird! In regards to the vapours?
You think with the full top off that it would be ok but even so if the fumes can be ramped or otherwise then it's definitely plausible..
even if the saw can run off the product. That's got nothing to do with it. It interferes with the oxygen intake.
#1) Cutting to close to a fire, then it's going to die or stumble until you pull back.
#2) fuel with the saw running and spill in the starter cover. (It's dead)
#3)spill fuel in the starter cover with the saw off. (It won't start right away. ) pop off the cover right away and you will be up and running.a lot sooner.
#4) leaky gas lines makes for hard starting
#5) leaky needle makes for hard starting. Is it because its flooded??? That makes no sense all the time as it's not that much fuel compared to priming and it's every time, even if it's half a minute then you still have to pull four or 5 times???


Some food for thought.

What do you gents think?