Husky 372xpw Pros/Cons

[parrisw]

For the life of me I can't understand full wrap handles. I know it's what you get used to but I've managed to get myself in all sorts of gymnast type tree felling situations and never thought "Gee I wish I had a full wrap". Not having a go at full wraps as heaps of people love them in the US/Canada etc. I just can't see how they'd ever benefit me with what I do in regard to felling trees - I've never seen one in Australia. They probably protect the saw a bit when she's rolling around in the back of the vehicle I suppose

If you'd watch some west coast fallers you'd know why! I like them for felling then you can handle the saw any way you need to, and its easier to do you work from one side of the tree, notch the tree then filp saw over and do back cut, if you go to do a back cut from the same side with a half wrap its a pain, if you use the bottom of the bar, then you have a handle on that side of the saw. In your vids I see you using the back bar allot.

 

[MCW]

If you'd watch some west coast fallers you'd know why! I like them for felling then you can handle the saw any way you need to, and its easier to do you work from one side of the tree, notch the tree then filp saw over and do back cut, if you go to do a back cut from the same side with a half wrap its a pain, if you use the bottom of the bar, then you have a handle on that side of the saw. In your vids I see you using the back bar allot.

Hey I can see why those fallers use them (I love watching their vids) and you're right I do back bar a lot. I suppose the difference with most of the falling I've done is that I've been against the clock so to speak. Back barring is easy and fast however with buried bars you are pushing chips into the cut the way I do it, instead of pulling them out like you would with a full wrap and the saw flipped over. If I'd have been around and taught by guys that use them I'm sure I'd be a 100% convert but I've made do without full wrap handles on some reasonably big trees. I suppose there is far more than one way to skin a cat

 

[CentaurG2]

The full wrap on the 372xpw is a poor design. The lower portion of the bar blocks the chip discharge. Noodling is frustrating at best. The bar also block access to one of the bar nuts and the side chain adjuster. You will need to use a really short scrench or a wrench to loosen the bar nut. Aint worth moose crap. Sell it and get the half wrap. The saw itself is a nice rig and probably just about the best of the old skool stuff on the market. Honestly, I don’t think you could tell the difference between a 71cc and 74cc 372xp (other than a slightly different exhaust tone) until you bolt on a 28” or better bar.

 

[fishercat]

I like using all my saws too much............

Ahh! You need one stumpin saw at least. Let the rest be full wraps though!

to commit one to only stumping.

 

[parrisw]

Hey I can see why those fallers use them (I love watching their vids) and you're right I do back bar a lot. I suppose the difference with most of the falling I've done is that I've been against the clock so to speak. Back barring is easy and fast however with buried bars you are pushing chips into the cut the way I do it, instead of pulling them out like you would with a full wrap and the saw flipped over. If I'd have been around and taught by guys that use them I'm sure I'd be a 100% convert but I've made do without full wrap handles on some reasonably big trees. I suppose there is far more than one way to skin a cat

Burry a 36" and you don't want a back bar. I don't like that at all. When I watch your vids you get away with back bar easy since the trees are not that big. I wish I did a vid of the last fir I did using my 395 with 36" it pretty much ate up the whole bar, then you'd see where it comes in handy.

 

[bitzer]

I really don't think back barring is that much faster. When you learn to just flip the saw over and let it do the work its easier than fighting a back bar back cut. More stress= more fatigue. Full wraps will make you "saw ambidextrous." I feel just as comfortable with my left hand pulling the trigger as I do my right. I run my half wraps like my full wraps now too. It really comes in handy when you only can make your cuts from one side of the tree or you don't want to cut under the lean.

 

[MCW]

Burry a 36" and you don't want a back bar. I don't like that at all. When I watch your vids you get away with back bar easy since the trees are not that big. I wish I did a vid of the last fir I did using my 395 with 36" it pretty much ate up the whole bar, then you'd see where it comes in handy.

Nah you're right mate regarding longer bars and back barring. I've back barred 32" bars with no major problems but you do have to make sure your chain is cutting properly. I've tried to back bar a few 32" bars with bluntish chains - not fun. Once again not saying that full wraps don't have a place, I just can't see the value with what I do. I can actually cut the way you guys do without a full wrap. Just need a bit of twisty in the wrist.

The main problem I've had back barring larger bars is the buildup of chips in the cut instead of these clearing using the flippy saw full wrap method.

I really don't think back barring is that much faster. When you learn to just flip the saw over and let it do the work its easier than fighting a back bar back cut.

As mentioned above if you're chain is cutting properly you're not fighting the saw at all. I've back barred for basically 10 1/2 hours with no fatigue issues.

I've also dropped large trees successfully with no full wrap and no I don't back bar the larger ones. As mentioned above there is more than one way to skin a cat

 

[HittinSteel]

There is no cons to that saw.

That about sums it up.

 

[bitzer]

I've also dropped large trees successfully with no full wrap and no I don't back bar the larger ones. As mentioned above there is more than one way to skin a cat

I will agree with you there! Everyone has got their way and yours obviously produces! I didn't even know what a full wrap was for my first 5 years of cutting for work. I also cut 42" dbh snags with a 16" bar then too. Just a silly waste of time when I think about it now. I still have not seen another guy around here with a full wrap either and nearly all bars are under 20". Around here a 16" bar will cut everything. Or so they seem to think.

 

[MCW]

I will agree with you there! Everyone has got their way and yours obviously produces! I didn't even know what a full wrap was for my first 5 years of cutting for work. I also cut 42" dbh snags with a 16" bar then too. Just a silly waste of time when I think about it now. I still have not seen another guy around here with a full wrap either and nearly all bars are under 20". Around here a 16" bar will cut everything. Or so they seem to think.

Thanks mate. I am not against full wrap handles, not at all and I can honestly see why they get used in some areas. However certain techniques seem to have developed in particular demographics that have become the accepted norm. What I'm saying is that I've dropped small trees, medium trees, and larger trees and not once have I thought "gee this would be easier using a full wrap".
Funnily enough loggers in hilly Tasmania cut trees just as large as anywhere else on earth and they seem to do just fine without full wrap handles. It's what you get used to.

 

[flushcut]

ha ha, good excuse, but not good enough! You can get it low enough with a full wrap.



For me it is more of a time saver for when I grind the stumps. But I have a full wrap on my 385 372 and I use the 3120 for the stumpage it's just fun to see the big dawg eat.

 

[flushcut]

I will agree with you there! Everyone has got their way and yours obviously produces! I didn't even know what a full wrap was for my first 5 years of cutting for work. I also cut 42" dbh snags with a 16" bar then too. Just a silly waste of time when I think about it now. I still have not seen another guy around here with a full wrap either and nearly all bars are under 20". Around here a 16" bar will cut everything. Or so they seem to think.

Come on over I run bars up to 42" I typically run with 18, 20, 24,28 for the most part. Yes I use full wrap when I am cutting firewood or it's a big tree and I can free fall it.

 

[bitzer]

Come on over I run bars up to 42" I typically run with 18, 20, 24,28 for the most part. Yes I use full wrap when I am cutting firewood or it's a big tree and I can free fall it.

Hey I know you're out there and there are a few others that run them longer too. I was just talking the norm around here. I typically run 25" and 28" for everything. My long bar is 36" and I'm thinking about a 42" for my 394 if I ever get a little extra cash laying around.

I agree with you on low stumps that need to be ground. Cutting the stump tight or below grade with a saw is A LOT faster than grinding. The extra 3" or so that a full wrap adds may not seem like much in the woods, but in someones yard its a mile.

 

[GASoline71]

There is no cons to that saw.

Yup... that is correct. Prolly the best damn saw Husqvarna ever produced.

Gary

 

[headleyj]

There is no cons to that saw.

oh I beg to differ ...albeit a minor "con". The damned handle is smack dab in the way of the tensioner screw.

It's still my favorite saw to run though sounds like a pissed off KX125 on crack....and that's stock

 

[SawTroll]

Yup... that is correct. Prolly the best damn saw Husqvarna ever produced.

Gary

Probably the best one from any brand, but no saw model is perfect.....

 

[Evan]

i agree , in my opion there are no cons to saw.

it runs right with the 460 441 044 440.
considerd it a bigbore 372 from the factory

have you ever heard a pissed off kx125 on crack? a 125 on crack and the 70cc saws of any make are a completly difrent animal. a mild 125 with a fmf fatty or procircuit exhaust will put the smack down on most any chainsaw. this is with the ports in cyclinder as they came from factory. giver her some more crack and well she starts to breath fire

 

[headleyj]

i agree , in my opion there are no cons to saw.

it runs right with the 460 441 044 440.
considerd it a bigbore 372 from the factory

have you ever heard a pissed off kx125 on crack? a 125 on crack and the 70cc saws of any make are a completly difrent animal. a mild 125 with a fmf fatty or procircuit exhaust will put the smack down on most any chainsaw. this is with the ports in cyclinder as they came from factory. giver her some more crack and well she starts to breath fire

I know man. background - I was used to running a 290 Stihl and then went to the 372XPW - wow. No haven't heard a KX125 on crack for ohhh about 15 years, but the first thing I thought of when I ran the 372 was - sounds like that old KX a buddy of mine used to ride......the 372 just sounds awesome IMO....jsut tryin to get a point across and have a laugh in the process.

 

[Evan]

gotcha

i have found memerios of my kx125 peggd through a strech off peaked out steep woops in 3rd gear. thats the coolest sound ive ever heard

 

[flushcut]

but in someones yard its a mile. [/QUOTE]

:agree2: