Husky 55 and 455

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You've got me curious now. I've read here that the 55 seems to be a well respected and easy to work on overall good saw. By the same token the 455 does not get the same accolades. I was under the impression that the saws were identical and all Husky did was change the model # system. Am I reading this wrong or is there really a big difference in the two models?
 
I think they dont share same parts, not much at all, so i think they arent even relatives in mechanical bloodline.

55 , if you ask me, is more pro, when compared to 455.
 
455 is a clam shell motor the 55 is a split crankcase semipro saw. The only thing similar is the bar nuts. 55 is a better saw IMO i do have both. Am selling the 455 bought new still has original chain.
Shep
 
OK, so what you guys are saying, is that you'd take the Husky 51/55 series saws over the 455/460 series. Correct? If so, that's good to know when one of them pop up on the used market.

Firewood guy here so take it FWIW.

I bought a 51 new in 2000 (1999 model). I have heated almost totally with wood until last year when I installed the OWB and now 100% wood. The 51 was my only saw until last week when I was given a 041 Farm Boss that needs some work.

I have also cut a fair amount more than I burn all with the 51. It still has 140psi compression as of 8 days ago. 2 carb kits, 2 bars, one ignition switch, one choke lever. a couple of spark plugs, one recoil cover, fuel lines. No major tear down. I won't be getting rid of it.

Jeff
 
yes the 55/51 is a much better saw than the 455 rancher, the 55 has the pro-style metal case where the 455 has the plastic "clam-shell"The 55 is a much more durable saw, and make great fire-wood saws
 
The 455 rancher is the biggest P O S I have worked on. While the 55 (not rancher) that I had was a very well made saw and easy to maintain.
 
I think they dont share same parts, not much at all, so i think they arent even relatives in mechanical bloodline.

55 , if you ask me, is more pro, when compared to 455.

True, the 55 is a much neater and nicer saw.

All they share is the bar nuts and the cutting attachment.
 
Don't confuse the 455 clamshell with the Stihl clamshell. I can have a 455 crank in my hand in 10 minute. The weakest part of the 55 is the intake/carb setup. And the CP notwithstanding, a 455 is noticeably stronger than a 55.
 
As per Husqvarna published specs, 55 has better power to weight and even the 450 is better than the 455 in this regard.
(And with the 55, you could win the closed port lottery!)


455, 12.8lb, 3.5hp

450, 11.33lb, 3.2hp

55, 11.6lb, 3.4hp

Not that this tells the whole story but something to consider...



The 254xp (154se also) is a good one to look for in this size/price range, 11.9lb, 4.1hp.
They seem to sell in generally the same range as the 55's and have mostly avoided the premium prices of the 262's and such.
I've picked up a couple cosmetically challenged but great running ones reeeally cheap...
 
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I have and run both of these saws and as previously stated, they are not really similar other than their place in the cc line up.

The Husky 455 is commonly disparaged here but I find it to be a pretty decent saw and a good choice for a one saw plan. It handles a 20" bar running 3/8 chain very nicely which will meet most people's needs.

The 55 I have doesn't get used that much as I pick up a Stihl 026 instead. I have never used a closed port 55 but I don't think they are all that common.
 
What i woul look up on 55 that id be interest to buy :

-whats the cylinder like, can be checked easily after pulling the plug off, with a flashlight, when piston is down, youll see if theres molten aluminium residue around exhaust port. Minimal amount can be taken care off, with acid and or hone, and new piston or just a piston ring sometimes.

-pull off the muffler and see hows the piston wall, if its all scrathced and molten with bad ring, pressed between molten piston material, youll need a piston at least for sure.

- if the things mentioned above exist, take off the carb and the intakes plastic flange as well as the rubber intake boot, to see if the tiny pale rubber grommet next to the inlet port, in the cylinder, is torn, worn, split or anything suspicious. Its about the only weak point in the 55 if you aske, as long as the oil pump works and the cooling fins are free from major dirt amounts.

-Sometimes, though the fuel line, from tank, vibrates itself broken, and you might not see it with a quick look, as the broken, leaking fuel hose, is usually, hidden just inside the rubber grommet seal, between tank/handle part and the crank case part. Piece of that yellow silicone fuel line lasts a lot longer than the black oem-style fuel line, in my experience.

-Choke levers sometime wear, as they vibrate against the engine, but its nothing serious. Ive had just one, that split up in two pieces in the forest but piece of steel wire replaced it for the rest of the day.

-Ignitions are fairly reliable, ive never had ignition busting up.



-55 enjoys a lot, breathing easier, meaning that you might like to open up the muffler a bit, theres many ways. The saw will run cooler and have bit more power too.

-Leaving off the cylinders gasket is a cheap good trick too, more compression ratio is good.

- i run mine, with 13-15-20 bars with no problems, but it has a ported cylinder too and with 13 and 15 bar i use 8 pin chain sprocket instead of stock 7 pin one.
 
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